93 Mustang Wont Self Test

hello everyone this is my first post hopefully im doing it right and you guys can help. ok first off i have a 93 lx with an a3m ecu. so i was trying to do a self test on it to pick up codes and im not sure if i jumpered the wrong wires or if it was the fact that instead of using a test light between the connector and the bat hot i used a straight piece of wire, but regardless when i got in the car and turned on the ignition i heard the ecu fry, and my check engine light stopped working, it went out completely. so i tried to start the car, it ran but idles at like 1500 for a couple minutes before it drops to normal. now when the car has been driven then shut off it wont start again unless i trip the inertia switch and crank it then when it fires i have to run back and turn it back on. so i take the ecu apart and see that it has definitly burned the trace from pin 16 to about halfway through the board. so next i solder it point to point across the damaged part. now the check engine light is back on but he car still has the same running issues and i cant get the ecu to go into test mode. so i buy another ecu off a friend of mine which is an a9l instead of a3m. the car ran eratically and i had to turn the idle up for it to even start, then when it started it sounded like it had a huge cam in it and surged at idle. but even with the new a9l it still wouldnt test.... sorry for the long post guys ive been fighting the car for over 2 weeks trying to figure out what happened and how to fix it.
 
Oh No... Oh No... Oh No...

I smell smoke and $$$ even through the computer screen...

Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 91-95 model 5.0 Mustangs

How it is supposed to work:
The grey/red wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power and drivability problems. Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

What sometimes happens is that the test connector grey/red wire gets jumpered to power which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60. Only an experienced electronics technician can open the computer up & repair the trace if it burns up and creates an open circuit.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground (grey/red wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms.

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If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between the grey/red wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector : it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins 40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal ground has failed, and the computer needs to be replaced.

See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/749974-computer-issue.html#post7490537 for Joel5.0’s fix for the computer internal signal ground.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector: it is for an A9L, A9P computer.
eec-iv-computer-connector-for-5-0-mustang-gif.88243


a9x-series-computer-connector-wire-side-view-gif.71316


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the grey/red wire goes. Almost every sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.
91-93 5.0 Mustangs
91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif




Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 Mass Air Mustangs
94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif



See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
salt-pepper-10-pin-connectors-65-jpg.68512



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine
 
Thanks for your reply. So I test my grey and red wire to the negative bat post with the hot unhooked and when i have the ohm meter set on the 20 position it wont even register. i have to change it to the 2000 position and then it registers at 1554.... does this even sound possible?
 
Whenever you ohm something you always want to do it with the battery disconnected and the high resistance like that makes me believe you have a break in the wire somewhere because if you test from the test connector to the negative pigtail located by the battery you should read as jrichker put less then 1.5 ohms