95 Cobra Ignition/stalling Issues Can't Figure It Out Any Help Appreciated

BiggsSVT95

New Member
Apr 25, 2017
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Been having issues with stalling/trouble restarting for about a year now at first I replaced ignition control module and problem dissappeared for a few months. I've replaced it 3x now and every time problem comes back quicker. Car will start and run fine but after about 5-6 miles it will start to stall for a split seconds than run fine again after a mile or 2 it will than completely stall out and won't start back up for a minute or two.
Now here's the strange thing to me after it stalls and I turn the key to on position all dash lights come on EXCEPT the service engine light and if it does this it will not start I have to sit there and turn the key every few seconds to check it and as soon as all dash lights come one INCLUDING service engine light it'll start right back up and run normal for another 5-6 miles kinda baffles me I've read alot of threads but Noone seems to be having exact problem I am any help appreciated
 
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No I tried to get it checked at auto store but my diagnostic plug wouldn't link up but I'll look for the thread I know getting the code would make it much easier thanks
 
He just said it "wouldn't link" the plug fit fine which is wierd because I just had it checked at another auto place 8 or 9 months ago when I had a failed cat and it read fine
 
He just said it "wouldn't link" the plug fit fine which is wierd because I just had it checked at another auto place 8 or 9 months ago when I had a failed cat and it read fine
 
Sorry my phone went wonky n reposted my reply again but I'm going to go through checking grounds and try to see if I can check code myself well see what happens thanks again I'll post my findings if anything changes
 
Where did the auto store check for codes? The diagnostic port under the dash isn't hooked up for 94-95 GT's and Cobras. It's only there because Ford tried to save money and use the same dash for all cars, and they sell more V6's then GT's and Cobras. The correct diagnostic port is in the engine bay, behind the passenger side shock tower.
 
Have you tried replacing the Dizzy? I had a similar issue. It turned out to be the PIP sensor. The easiest way to check is to wait until it happens again. Then pull the test plug. If it runs fine without the test plug then the PIP sensor is bad. Be careful of rebuilt Dizzys they have a bad rep for not replacing the PIP and they can fail right out of the box.
 
Have you tried replacing the Dizzy? I had a similar issue. It turned out to be the PIP sensor. The easiest way to check is to wait until it happens again. Then pull the test plug. If it runs fine without the test plug then the PIP sensor is bad. Be careful of rebuilt Dizzys they have a bad rep for not replacing the PIP and they can fail right out of the box.
No I haven't replaced distributor yet but what's a test plug? Not the most mechanically inclined sorry prolly stupid question haha
 
I believe Flade is referring to the Spout connector - a little grey jumper plug located in the wiring harness near the MAF. You're supposed to remove it to set timing, and also correct it can help troubleshoot the PIP.
 
Alright so I did finally get a chance to locate the spout connector (it was tucked up in fenderwell) and correct as soon as I unplugged it car would start so I got a motorcraft PIP/stator ordered will replace probably Friday and update thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it
 
Had similar issue.. replaced iac, fpr, cap/rotor, 2 new mafs, etc, etc.. it was the distributor. Shaft was wonky and that was making the pip read funky.. alas.. car ran like crap no matter what. Had cheapo o'reilly distributor overnighted and it was like.. 90 bucks? Popped it in and it ran great. That may be a better option than replacing the pip itself, as it's only another $50 or so, and you get a new pip and cap/rotor. I used my old MSD cap/rotor anyways but you have a spare down the road now if you ever need it to troubleshoot/etc.
 
Alright so.....replaced distributor and car still won't start (quit starting all together about a week ago) I'm wondering if I might hAve burned up my ignition control module before I replaced distributor hell idk haha I'll prolly run up n grab another icm real quick slap it in see if it fixes it just wanted to update
 
Thanks I worked through a shortlist of starter troubleshooting out of my Chilton book but I'ma start working my way down this list, again thanks I gotta lil discouraged for minute lol
 
Check the PIP. I had all these issues and the new distributor fixed it... for 2 days. Pulled plugs last night to look em over, popped back in, car wouldn't start.. put old distributor back in.. spark.. lulz. It was the pos reman PIP sensor in the dizzy.

Good luck.. also I don't know if you run a breather on your valve cover.. but if you run a pcv it MUST Be closed.. not a breather... that's a big vac leak..