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95 Cobra Ignition/stalling Issues Can't Figure It Out Any Help Appreciated

  • Thread starter Thread starter BiggsSVT95
  • Start date Start date Apr 25, 2017
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    sn95 cobra sn95 ignition problems sn95 stalling problems
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BiggsSVT95

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Apr 25, 2017
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Apr 25, 2017
#1
  • Apr 25, 2017
  • #1
Been having issues with stalling/trouble restarting for about a year now at first I replaced ignition control module and problem dissappeared for a few months. I've replaced it 3x now and every time problem comes back quicker. Car will start and run fine but after about 5-6 miles it will start to stall for a split seconds than run fine again after a mile or 2 it will than completely stall out and won't start back up for a minute or two.
Now here's the strange thing to me after it stalls and I turn the key to on position all dash lights come on EXCEPT the service engine light and if it does this it will not start I have to sit there and turn the key every few seconds to check it and as soon as all dash lights come one INCLUDING service engine light it'll start right back up and run normal for another 5-6 miles kinda baffles me I've read alot of threads but Noone seems to be having exact problem I am any help appreciated
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#2
  • Apr 25, 2017
  • #2
Have you checked for codes?
If not then there is a thread for that in the 5.0 tech/help section that shows how to do it.
 

BiggsSVT95

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#3
  • Apr 25, 2017
  • #3
No I tried to get it checked at auto store but my diagnostic plug wouldn't link up but I'll look for the thread I know getting the code would make it much easier thanks
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Aug 25, 2016
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#4
  • Apr 25, 2017
  • #4
The plug itself didn't match their reader or the reader couldn't read the computer?
 

BiggsSVT95

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Apr 26, 2017
#5
  • Apr 26, 2017
  • #5
He just said it "wouldn't link" the plug fit fine which is wierd because I just had it checked at another auto place 8 or 9 months ago when I had a failed cat and it read fine
 

Dan_Soprano

15 Year Member
May 7, 2003
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Apr 26, 2017
#6
  • Apr 26, 2017
  • #6
BiggsSVT95 said:
He just said it "wouldn't link" the plug fit fine which is wierd because I just had it checked at another auto place 8 or 9 months ago when I had a failed cat and it read fine
Click to expand...
I bet the no read is directly related to your other issue. I'd check all your grounds to start.
 
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BiggsSVT95

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#7
  • Apr 26, 2017
  • #7
He just said it "wouldn't link" the plug fit fine which is wierd because I just had it checked at another auto place 8 or 9 months ago when I had a failed cat and it read fine
 

BiggsSVT95

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#8
  • Apr 26, 2017
  • #8
Sorry my phone went wonky n reposted my reply again but I'm going to go through checking grounds and try to see if I can check code myself well see what happens thanks again I'll post my findings if anything changes
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
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Apr 27, 2017
#9
  • Apr 27, 2017
  • #9
Where did the auto store check for codes? The diagnostic port under the dash isn't hooked up for 94-95 GT's and Cobras. It's only there because Ford tried to save money and use the same dash for all cars, and they sell more V6's then GT's and Cobras. The correct diagnostic port is in the engine bay, behind the passenger side shock tower.
 

BiggsSVT95

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Apr 28, 2017
#10
  • Apr 28, 2017
  • #10
Right on I'll have a look when I get off I'm running to parts store anyways I'll have em hook her back up
 
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Flade

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#11
  • Apr 30, 2017
  • #11
Have you tried replacing the Dizzy? I had a similar issue. It turned out to be the PIP sensor. The easiest way to check is to wait until it happens again. Then pull the test plug. If it runs fine without the test plug then the PIP sensor is bad. Be careful of rebuilt Dizzys they have a bad rep for not replacing the PIP and they can fail right out of the box.
 

BiggsSVT95

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#12
  • May 3, 2017
  • #12
Flade said:
Have you tried replacing the Dizzy? I had a similar issue. It turned out to be the PIP sensor. The easiest way to check is to wait until it happens again. Then pull the test plug. If it runs fine without the test plug then the PIP sensor is bad. Be careful of rebuilt Dizzys they have a bad rep for not replacing the PIP and they can fail right out of the box.
Click to expand...
No I haven't replaced distributor yet but what's a test plug? Not the most mechanically inclined sorry prolly stupid question haha
 

jozsefsz

15 Year Member
Aug 11, 2013
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May 3, 2017
#13
  • May 3, 2017
  • #13
I believe Flade is referring to the Spout connector - a little grey jumper plug located in the wiring harness near the MAF. You're supposed to remove it to set timing, and also correct it can help troubleshoot the PIP.
 

BiggsSVT95

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Apr 25, 2017
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May 8, 2017
#14
  • May 8, 2017
  • #14
Alright so I did finally get a chance to locate the spout connector (it was tucked up in fenderwell) and correct as soon as I unplugged it car would start so I got a motorcraft PIP/stator ordered will replace probably Friday and update thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it
 
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RioRed95Cobra

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Apr 7, 2017
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May 9, 2017
#15
  • May 9, 2017
  • #15
Had similar issue.. replaced iac, fpr, cap/rotor, 2 new mafs, etc, etc.. it was the distributor. Shaft was wonky and that was making the pip read funky.. alas.. car ran like crap no matter what. Had cheapo o'reilly distributor overnighted and it was like.. 90 bucks? Popped it in and it ran great. That may be a better option than replacing the pip itself, as it's only another $50 or so, and you get a new pip and cap/rotor. I used my old MSD cap/rotor anyways but you have a spare down the road now if you ever need it to troubleshoot/etc.
 

BiggsSVT95

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Apr 25, 2017
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May 12, 2017
#16
  • May 12, 2017
  • #16
Alright so.....replaced distributor and car still won't start (quit starting all together about a week ago) I'm wondering if I might hAve burned up my ignition control module before I replaced distributor hell idk haha I'll prolly run up n grab another icm real quick slap it in see if it fixes it just wanted to update
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
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May 12, 2017
#17
  • May 12, 2017
  • #17
Go through the cranks but no start checklist
http://forums.stangnet.com/787471-cranks-ok-but-no-start-checklist-fuel-injected-mustangs.html
 

BiggsSVT95

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Apr 25, 2017
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May 12, 2017
#18
  • May 12, 2017
  • #18
Thanks I worked through a shortlist of starter troubleshooting out of my Chilton book but I'ma start working my way down this list, again thanks I gotta lil discouraged for minute lol
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,926
10,572
203
polk county florida
May 12, 2017
#19
  • May 12, 2017
  • #19
I hear ya, can get pretty frustrating, helped me straighten out many self inflicted problems.
Jrichker deserves the thanks, I'm just a traffic cop here, this place makes me sound cool to my friends.
 
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RioRed95Cobra

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Apr 7, 2017
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May 12, 2017
#20
  • May 12, 2017
  • #20
Check the PIP. I had all these issues and the new distributor fixed it... for 2 days. Pulled plugs last night to look em over, popped back in, car wouldn't start.. put old distributor back in.. spark.. lulz. It was the pos reman PIP sensor in the dizzy.

Good luck.. also I don't know if you run a breather on your valve cover.. but if you run a pcv it MUST Be closed.. not a breather... that's a big vac leak..
 
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