ok guys im new here and this is the first mustang ive owned.. its a 95 gt. i am have n trouble with it running right. it surges until it warms up . it seems to have a mis fire. the motor was just rebuilt last week. put it in the car got it running and now im have n these problems. all the plugs cap rotor and coil have been replaced. people are telling me that i need to change the computer to a 93 5speed computer . they said 95 is the worst year for computer problems. oh the car was a 5 speed and now auto. also have a trickflow intake and a stage 2 trickflow cam. has stock injectors 75mm throttle body and thats all i can think of to help now.. just not sure what to do .. please help.. thank you
95 computer help????
- Thread starter alank1300
- Start date
It could be several things and don't buy into the BS about the computer being the issue. First you really need to pull codes to see what the computer is reading. For starters I would look to how the idle is set as well as testing the TPS at rest voltage and the voltage as you move from idle to WOT. Also if it's 15 years old along with the IAC valve I would just replace them. 15 year old electrical parts just don't function as well as new. As for the misfire clean the MAF sensor element and recheck the plugs (cracked during install) and plug wires to make sure they are securely fastened. See what you come up with a report back.
The computer in stock form doesn't respond to modifications as well as the 93 computer. As far as idle control and driveability, it is actually better. Your problem is elsewhere. Putting a 93 computer on it is going to add more problems and complications rather than fixing them.
Kurt
Kurt
well ive double checked timing,fire n order , cleaned mass air and iac, set tbs to .99 and cheched the sweep from closed to full throttle wich goes to 4.00 with now jumps in numbers. someone told me that u can change fire n order is this true ? something about change n two of the wires too fire different...
went and bought an obd1 tool . if im reading this right it gives me a code 113. air charge temp sensor. could this cause the miss fire ? if so i dont seem to have one in my inlet tube. just air filter mass air then pipe to throttle body????? looks like i have a spare wire hanging orr harness near mas air ?
alleymad95GT
Member
What computer do you have in the car now?
You should not have any hanging spare wires...there should be an additional sensor in the inlet tube that you seem to be missing...
That being said, there is a wire that is supposed to kind of hang down by the MAF...that is where the SPOUT connector is...and it just kind of hangs there looking useless, but its not...
The 302 HO is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
The 302 is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Do you think you have the wrong order?
The TPS volts at WOT are lower than they should be. Doesn't affect idle but may be out of range for the PCM. You should see 4.6+ volts.
hey toyman.. thanks for all the info so far..... 
it wont let me post pic. but i found out from the guy i bought the car from it had a pro charger on it before i bought it and they put it back together some what stock. so here lies my problems i think.. the cold air they used on the car has no hole in it for that sensor. thats why i think that wire is just hanging there.. im going to have a buddy help me with the obd codes because im un sure that im doing it right.. the fire n order is set 13726548 like the book calls for... also i had to have a fresh rebuild because i found out after i bought the car it had 5 broken pistions. they were broke between the rings... i called ford and they told me that the comp is for a 95 but couldnt tell me stick or auto.. the car was a stick and now has an auto.. and to think i sold my 8 second hayabusa to build a car.. i thought that thing was a pain .. boy was i wrong..lol.. i also have the timing set at 14 and yes i pulled the spout.. this thing is driving me nuts.. wish i knew more about these cars before i bought one.. i could tell u anything u need to know about a hayabusa but mustang im lost..
it wont let me post pic. but i found out from the guy i bought the car from it had a pro charger on it before i bought it and they put it back together some what stock. so here lies my problems i think.. the cold air they used on the car has no hole in it for that sensor. thats why i think that wire is just hanging there.. im going to have a buddy help me with the obd codes because im un sure that im doing it right.. the fire n order is set 13726548 like the book calls for... also i had to have a fresh rebuild because i found out after i bought the car it had 5 broken pistions. they were broke between the rings... i called ford and they told me that the comp is for a 95 but couldnt tell me stick or auto.. the car was a stick and now has an auto.. and to think i sold my 8 second hayabusa to build a car.. i thought that thing was a pain .. boy was i wrong..lol.. i also have the timing set at 14 and yes i pulled the spout.. this thing is driving me nuts.. wish i knew more about these cars before i bought one.. i could tell u anything u need to know about a hayabusa but mustang im lost..
Zero Signal
Active Member
Don't try anything with the computer yet. Going from manual to auto will be an issue, but shouldn't cause major engine problems. The missing ACT sensor was a good start at least. It may or may not fix the issue. If the engine is stumbling really bad, I doubt it's the ACT, but who knows.
We could use more detail about what it's doing exactly. Will it idle on it's own? Is is driveable? Can you rev the engine? How did it run before the rebuild, or do you know? Who rebuilt it and installed the engine? A really bad miss and backfires could be a result of the cam being timed incorrectly, but hopefully the problem is easier than that.
Pictures help, since we might spot things wired wrong or whatever.
We could use more detail about what it's doing exactly. Will it idle on it's own? Is is driveable? Can you rev the engine? How did it run before the rebuild, or do you know? Who rebuilt it and installed the engine? A really bad miss and backfires could be a result of the cam being timed incorrectly, but hopefully the problem is easier than that.
Pictures help, since we might spot things wired wrong or whatever.
Sounds like you got an auto trans working in a Stang that has a stick trans pcm If that is the case
The auto trans is not being fed with data it needs to shift
and other things needed by the auto trans
Yes ... Like has been said ... I'd not change to a fox body pcm
Grady
alleymad95GT
Member
If it is a T4M0 (F4ZF-12A650-EA) or a J4J1 (F4ZF-12A650-JB) it is for a stick...
If it is a U4P0 (F4VF-12A650-CA) it is for an auto...
I believe anyhow...which do you have?
PCM year dates and strategies and cal file
1988-1993 Mustang = GUFB Strategy = A9L, A3M, A3M1, X3Z, S0Z
1994-1995 Mustang = CBAZA Strategy = T4M0, U4P0, W4H0, J4J1, ZAO
94-95 Stang PCM's
T4M0 = GT stick trans
U4P0 = GT auto trans
W4H0 = GT auto trans
J4J1 = Cobra
ZAO = Cobra R
Grady
1988-1993 Mustang = GUFB Strategy = A9L, A3M, A3M1, X3Z, S0Z
1994-1995 Mustang = CBAZA Strategy = T4M0, U4P0, W4H0, J4J1, ZAO
94-95 Stang PCM's
T4M0 = GT stick trans
U4P0 = GT auto trans
W4H0 = GT auto trans
J4J1 = Cobra
ZAO = Cobra R
Grady
If they put an auto in it, it's probably an old AOD or something like that. Certainly nothing that is computer controlled, so that shouldn't be an issue. Start with what's wrong. If it doesn't have an ACT, that's where you need to start.
Kurt
Kurt
ok guys first i want to thank all of u for ur help .. its been great info.. here is how its going so far. first i put the ACT sensor in , found out the timing marks on the balancer were not correct so we timed the car with a digital timing gun . it is set at 15 with spout out and reads 28 with spuot in.. we bypassed the IAC valve and set the idle with the idle screw.. also reset TPS after the idle adjustment.. junked the msd cap wires and coil and put fresh stock stuff back on.. the car runs 100% better. the issue now is something my buddy called the trailer hitch effect.. the car has a miss or a spudder while in overdrive. it goes right away if u touch the gas.. not sure how to solve this problem.. oh the fuel press is set at 40.. moved the gauge tonigt so that i can see it while driving to c whats happen n.. also how can i tell what trans i have???? i know the shifter has 1 2 D on it. and it shifts into overdrive.. thanks guys for all the help so far
Zero Signal
Active Member
I know jack crap about autos so I can't help there 
but it sounds like you're getting somewhere. I had a funny feeling about the timing. I usually set it to run with no timing light before dialing it in. I can get it within a few degrees from optimal without using the light based on the sound/feel of the idle.
but it sounds like you're getting somewhere. I had a funny feeling about the timing. I usually set it to run with no timing light before dialing it in. I can get it within a few degrees from optimal without using the light based on the sound/feel of the idle.
alleymad95GT
Member
You got electronic overdrive? Controlled by a little button next to the gear selector? If so, it's an AODE. That is the auto that came in the '94 and '95 5.0s...
The "shudder" could be what was addressed by a TSB from Ford way back when the car was under warranty. It is something to do with the torque converter locking up in O/D...
Anyhow, the factory fix for the problem was to COMPLETELY drain the tranny and torque converter (there is an 11 mm drain plug in the converter) and replace the fluid with Mercon V. Should take abut 14 quarts or so...if it was serviced in this manner by the dealer, a tranny cooler was supposed to have been installed as well...which was not really adequate, but still better than nothing...if you don't have a cooler, it is not a bad idea to pick one up and throw it on there while you change the fluid...they are cheap enough...
The "shudder" could be what was addressed by a TSB from Ford way back when the car was under warranty. It is something to do with the torque converter locking up in O/D...
Anyhow, the factory fix for the problem was to COMPLETELY drain the tranny and torque converter (there is an 11 mm drain plug in the converter) and replace the fluid with Mercon V. Should take abut 14 quarts or so...if it was serviced in this manner by the dealer, a tranny cooler was supposed to have been installed as well...which was not really adequate, but still better than nothing...if you don't have a cooler, it is not a bad idea to pick one up and throw it on there while you change the fluid...they are cheap enough...
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