95 MUSTANG TUNE HELP

96pushrod said:

Sounds like you need a new tuner.
You could get a quarterhorse setup and learn tuning yourself, or step up and go with a megasquirt based setup. I’d choose option 2 as there are more people versed in tunerstudios than binary editor/tuner pro

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96pushrod said:

So who tuned it?

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hrspwrjunkie said:

Well, not to knock the person trying to figure out your issue, but have you considered finding someone who knows EEC-IV Mustangs?

Whenever you take a car that far, part of tuning is going to involve re-engineering the entire system to function cohesively, not just adjusting parameters in the computer. You may need someone more familiar with modding 5.0s.

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96pushrod said:

I looked these guys up, their track record for tuning isn’t good, especially if you get into fb reviews.

If maf and injectors are functioning properly, a half competent tuner should be able to dial in fuel - especially on a dyno. You’re better off getting a remote tune done over Dealing with somebody who doesn’t know what they’re doing.
What did he say your a/f was at?

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96pushrod said:

If he’s using commanded fuel to dial in Actual fuel then he is a terrible tuner.
Get your money back and hit up Willie at dirtydirtyracing. He does remote tuning.

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hrspwrjunkie said:

Terribly sorry for the delay in response. I didn't know you had replied.

That's a complicated question. As Mustang5L5 said, we need more info, but trying to tune over a forum really isn't ideal. Finding someone who can go through your system to make sure it's solid before tuning is critical. As an example, making sure all the right components are there and functioning properly before getting started. Then making sure the appropriate computer control components have been replaced such as MAF, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator. Both the condition of the base system and the compatibility of the modified components can mess up the ability to tune the computer. Then the tuning begins. However, all of that assumes that the components in the engine are really what you were told were in there, are all installed correctly (such as the cam being dialed in right) and complimentary — although, if they really are all TFS Stage 2 parts they should be.

If your mechanical combination is everything you've shared, it doesn't sound like anything too terribly wild. The compression is a bit high, but as long as it doesn't detonate, it shouldn't matter. In fact, from what I know, it should run with just the right matched MAF and injectors — it would probably benefit from being tuned incorrectly, though — but I don't have a specific MAF/injector combo to recommend. I would find someone who can work with you to dial in your combo from mechanicals to fuel and ignition system, to computer tune.

Modifying any car really is in the realm of engineering, not auto repair, which means a need to approach it from a different mindset than a parts replacement mentality, so having someone who can do that is more critical than any specific parts recommendation — unless someone has a completely engineered system that works.

Were I in your shoes, I'd be looking for tuners with excellent reputations who have specific expertise with building and tuning naturally aspirated EEC-IV 5.0s — '94-'95 experience is probably helpful if not critical, as well.

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Mustang5L5 said:

I would need to know more specifics of your combo. For example what MAF brand and injector size are in the car?

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96pushrod said:

Injector slopes and maf curve are used together to dial in air fuel. There are great guides online for how to tune these systems.

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Mustang5L5 said:

Would need to know more specifics of your combo. For example what MAF brand and injector size is on the car?

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stanglx2002 said:

What size injectors?
Is the MAF calibrated fro the above injectors size?

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jozsefsz said:

Sorry but the reply above is not correct in any respect. A 511 is a standard error code when you have a piggy-back chip installed. Your computer is not toast.
If you've had your MAF calibrated to your injectors, you need to remove your piggy-back chip with the questionable tune on it. Otherwise, the tune needs to be corrected to the new MAF curve. If you have a 511 after removing the chip, then you may have a problem.

The plumes of white smoke are most likely an extremely rich condition, likely nothing to do with the head gasket. That's a common failure, but as you mention it's running pig-rich, that's just raw fuel coming out of the tail-pipe. Especially if it smells like raw fuel and makes your eyes water.

Step 1 - remove piggy-back chip if you haven't already and give things a try.

Step 2 - you may have a stuck-open fuel injector. your tuner may have been oblivious to this (they often aren't good with mechanical problems). check your fuel pressure. if it goes to zero quickly after shutting off the car, you may have one that is stuck and is dumping all of the fuel into a single piston (leaving other cylinders lean and barely running). Your symptoms are identical to mine when I had that happen. This type of mechanical failure cannot be corrected with a tune. If you are running 'Bosch Green Giants' especially if sourced from eBay, be very very skeptical and assume this is your problem.

- If you suspect this is true based on fuel injector brand and / or fuel pressure readings, replace injectors with a good set.
- Change your oil because it's now filled with fuel and will wreck your engine.

Step 3 - if you have verifiably corrected the fuel injector situation in step 2 (don't try and skip that step), installing an adjustable fuel pressure regulator gives you some level of control over fueling. My calibrated Pro-M was calibrated too rich by the factory. Turning down fuel pressure a pound or two allowed the computer to get into the range where it could comfortably adjust fueling.

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