96+ spindles on a fox correctly

Doing so will significantly increase bumpsteer because...

* The steering arm on the 1996-04 spindle is about 1.02" (26mm) lower (relative to the rest of the spindle) than the steering arm of any 1979-95 spindle.

On a lowered car this should even out, am I wrong on this?

If it was that simple I think this would have been debunked ages ago, but I'm far from an expert. I'm curious as well. I had a set of 96 spindles but sold them before I ever installed them.
I've done a lot of searching on this subject and it seems like EVERYONE that has literally said f*ck it and installed the 96+ spindles anyway has had ZERO issues with bump steer. I believe the reason why a majority of people don't use them is all the information online directing people away from the 96+ spindles. I have a set sitting in my garage and I'm installing a new K member this winter so when I put everything back together I'm going to install my 96+ and see what is the truth. I want the extra track width.

I understand the logic of the fact that the steering geometry changes a little but I think people have found out how to correct it enough to make it work on the street. I understand it wouldn't be ideal for racing applications.
 
Opps, it actually is better lowered with 96 +, I used all the shims with the kit I bought.

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I am getting spindles, brakes, and complete rear end out of a 97 GT for $400. Spindles for a 94-95 GT are online from anywhere from 250+

I figure I will get a bumpsteer kit and offset rack bushings. how bad can it be?

I drove my 99 GT for years with bumpsteer from being lowered and it never caused me any issues.
 
I am getting spindles, brakes, and complete rear end out of a 97 GT for $400. Spindles for a 94-95 GT are online from anywhere from 250+

I figure I will get a bumpsteer kit and offset rack bushings. how bad can it be?

I drove my 99 GT for years with bumpsteer from being lowered and it never caused me any issues.
Technically bumpsteer IS and issue however it can be a little bump or a lot of bump steer and that darty-ness from a lot of bump steer could cause an accident. People are however (allegedly) running 96+ spindles without any bump steer at all.

The rear end from a 97' I believe is wider overall and will stick your wheels out if you were to install it.
 
Technically bumpsteer IS and issue however it can be a little bump or a lot of bump steer and that darty-ness from a lot of bump steer could cause an accident. People are however (allegedly) running 96+ spindles without any bump steer at all.

The rear end from a 97' I believe is wider overall and will stick your wheels out if you were to install it.

"79-93 Mustangs use a 57 inch wide rear axle. 94-98 Mustangs use a 58.5 inch wide rear axle. 99 and newer Mustangs use a 59 7/8 inch wide rear axle."

They will stick out further but not enough to cause any problems. I might need to roll the fender lip, will see.
 
Doing so will significantly increase bumpsteer because...

* The steering arm on the 1996-04 spindle is about 1.02" (26mm) lower (relative to the rest of the spindle) than the steering arm of any 1979-95 spindle.

On a lowered car this should even out, am I wrong on this?
Here is a more clear explanation from Jack Hidley that should help you understand why they say it won't be ideal. There are 3 points you need to consider, not just the two that you pointed out. The control arm pivot point, tie rod end pivot point, and the ball joint where the spindle connects.

To achieve minimum bumpsteer, the line through the tie rod must meet the other two lines at the instant center. The steering rack can be raised or lowered to achieve this or the outer tie rod can be raised or lowered with a bumpsteer kit. Moving either of these pivot points, up or down will change the location of the line going through the tie rod and fix things or make them much worse.
 
"79-93 Mustangs use a 57 inch wide rear axle. 94-98 Mustangs use a 58.5 inch wide rear axle. 99 and newer Mustangs use a 59 7/8 inch wide rear axle."

They will stick out further but not enough to cause any problems. I might need to roll the fender lip, will see.
Trust me it's not worth it to use that axle. Just remove the brakes and get stock length 5 lug axles from LMR and NCR brackets. There's also a way to modify and flip your stock brackets to get them to work too. I have IRS on my car which is 1.5" overall wider and it was a PITA to find 9" wide wheels with proper offset that looked nice and to not have rubbing. Having IRS however makes the headache of wheel selection worth it every day of the week!! You however will have no benefit only the headache.
 
Trust me it's not worth it to use that axle. Just remove the brakes and get stock length 5 lug axles from LMR and NCR brackets. There's also a way to modify and flip your stock brackets to get them to work too. I have IRS on my car which is 1.5" overall wider and it was a PITA to find 9" wide wheels with proper offset that looked nice and to not have rubbing. Having IRS however makes the headache of wheel selection worth it every day of the week!! You however will have no benefit only the headache.

It's a 4 banger it currently has the 7.5 Also, why are you saying this axle swap is bad? According to LMR
https://lmr.com/products/mustang-axle-guide

SN95 REAR END SWAP INTO FOX
A popular swap among Fox Body owners is the 94-98 rear end swap. This swap has gained popularity due to its low cost and less work involved. While this may seem like the way to go, this also extends your wheelbase by 3/4" on each side. This can cause tire rubbing and clearancing issues, as well as unforeseen issues with buying used parts. The 94-98 rear end consists of the same housing as the Fox, with axles that are .75" longer on each side. The 99-04 rear end has a different, wider housing and that coupled with the longer axle increases track width by 1.25" per side over a fox.
 
It's a 4 banger it currently has the 7.5 Also, why are you saying this axle swap is bad? According to LMR
https://lmr.com/products/mustang-axle-guide

SN95 REAR END SWAP INTO FOX
A popular swap among Fox Body owners is the 94-98 rear end swap. This swap has gained popularity due to its low cost and less work involved. While this may seem like the way to go, this also extends your wheelbase by 3/4" on each side. This can cause tire rubbing and clearancing issues, as well as unforeseen issues with buying used parts. The 94-98 rear end consists of the same housing as the Fox, with axles that are .75" longer on each side. The 99-04 rear end has a different, wider housing and that coupled with the longer axle increases track width by 1.25" per side over a fox.

It's not the axle he's talking about. Axles interchange between the housings. It's the housing and specifically the center section (differential) that is the weak link. A 7.5" diff is notoriously weak because of that.
 
It's not the axle he's talking about. Axles interchange between the housings. It's the housing and specifically the center section (differential) that is the weak link. A 7.5" diff is notoriously weak because of that.

Did you read the posts above? I said I was swapping in a 8.8 out of a 97 GT replacing the 7.5 that is currently in the car. he said not to waste my time doing this swap.
 
Did you read the posts above? I said I was swapping in a 8.8 out of a 97 GT replacing the 7.5 that is currently in the car. he said not to waste my time doing this swap.
I did not know you have a 4 cyl car. Regardless the 97' rear end is too wide but if you want that then go for it.

also, from your post regarding what LMR wrote.....

While this may seem like the way to go, this also extends your wheelbase by 3/4" on each side. This can cause tire rubbing and clearancing issues,
 
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I did not know you have a 4 cyl car. Regardless the 97' rear end is too wide but if you want that then go for it.

also, from your post regarding what LMR wrote.....

While this may seem like the way to go, this also extends your wheelbase by 3/4" on each side. This can cause tire rubbing and clearancing issues,

Well, I might have to get some shorter axles to replace the current ones. It is 3/4" wider due to the ABS rings, not a big deal the axle will still work.
 
Did you read the posts above? I said I was swapping in a 8.8 out of a 97 GT replacing the 7.5 that is currently in the car. he said not to waste my time doing this swap.
Yeah I did.......My read on the reply had the words 7.5" and axle swap in the same sentence. I read up several replies and all that was mentioned was overall width. Sorry, I missed the original statement.
But again,...as already stated, and by your own stats,...If you think that you can accommodate an overall length that is 2 and 7/8" longer than stock, without some sort of Hippie Joe looking fender flare then.........who am I to stop you?
 
Yeah I did.......My read on the reply had the words 7.5" and axle swap in the same sentence. I read up several replies and all that was mentioned was overall width. Sorry, I missed the original statement.
But again,...as already stated, and by your own stats,...If you think that you can accommodate an overall length that is 2 and 7/8" longer than stock, without some sort of Hippie Joe looking fender flare then.........who am I to stop you?

Where are you getting 2 7/8 from? 96-98 GT 8.8 is .75" longer than the foxes per side. thats 1.5" wider overall.
 
I've known people to swap the rear, front lower control arms, and the spindles to fox bodies. To use the front a arms you have to change the front outer and inner tie rod ends and use caster camber plates and a centric upper strut bolts at the spindle.....then you could use the same offset all the way around.

Get the master cylinder and prop valve while you're at it...if you can.
 
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I've known people to swap the rear, front lower control arms, and the spindles to fox bodies. To use the front a arms you have to change the front outer and inner tie rod ends and use caster camber plates and a centric upper strut bolts at the spindle.....then you could use the same offset all the way around.

Get the master cylinder and prop valve while you're at it...if you can.

It has hydraboost, does that matter?