ABOUT TO BUY BLOWER, WHAT DO i NEED TO CHANG...

I HAVE 347 WITH THE MODS IN MY SIG BELOW. I AM GOING TO BE BUYING A
VS 1 S-TRIM. MY COMPRESSION IS 10.7-1. THATS A BIT MUCH FOR A SUPERCHARGER. I BUILT MY MOTOR W/ MACHINING TOO SO IM OK WITH TEARING IT DOWN, CAKE WALK. I GOT MY ROTOATING ASSEMABLY FROM COAST HIGH PERFORMANCE, STREET FIGHTER GT KIT. WHAT COPRESSION DO I NEED? 8.5 OR 9.0 TO 1 ANY OTHER INFO WOULD BE HELPFUL. TIMING??? IM AT 18 DERESS NOW AND I REALIZE THIS WILL NEED TO BE RETARDED TO WAY LESS.
 
Does your 347 use a 5.4" or a 5.315" rod, this will tell me what pistons are available for you and tell me what compression you can get to.

What is the cc of the head, and deckheight of the motor?

9.0:1 is fine....
 
Rick

I have the 5.4 long rod set up. Deck height is stock. I got the block from B&M engine out of Texas. It was fully preped and taken .30 over. My heads are I beleive 62cc Stock out of the box. I got the heads cam and intake from summit from their Trick Flow set up.
 
That makes it easy, you'll use a 1.175" comp heigh piston. Probe makes a 14.2cc dish piston for the TFS TW.

If you have a .927" pin use PROBE SRS SERIES PT# 12352-030 (Be best to verify what parts you currently have off your build sheet)

Bore 4.03 (inches)
Stroke 3.4 (inches)
Rod Length 5.4 (inches)
Cyl. Head Vol. 62 (cc)
Deck Height 0.00 (inches)
Head Gasket Bore 4.10 (inches)
Head Gasket Thickness 0.039 (inches)
Piston to Cyl. Wall Clearance 0.003 (inches)
Top Ring Land Height 0.25 (inches)
Piston Dome Vol. -14.2 (cc)


Compression Ratio:
9.392 : 1

Bore / Stroke Ratio:
1.185 : 1

Rod / Stroke Ratio:
1.588 : 1

Total volume:
795.518 cc's

Compressed volume:
84.701 cc's
 
I'd start at 10 base and go from there, 1 range colder plug, gapped down to .035" I assume you'll be running a BTM that comes with the Vortech, this way you can pull timing out per pound of boost.
 
I would go to lucas 42#'s .I would go with a staight 6al msd and chip the car.
You will have to recal the mass air for a blower set up and tell them for 42#'s.The upper ring gap has a major roll in comp so I wouldn't exceed the above stated .25 thous with the current bore and stroke.The other things to keep in mind or to just check into are the cam spec on that tfs stage 1 wether or not it's speced for blower app. The other is that comes to mind is if you have an automatic that blower will change your stall dramaticly.
 
Ill check in to all of those things.

I do how ever have a manuel tranny so I wont have to worry about a new stall.

As far as the injectors are conserned, they need to go? So I need to go to 42lb one and have my Pro- calibrated for them correct? Cali for a blower too?.?.

I do have a MSD 6a right now, and as far as the chip goes....what sorta chip, from who, and how much am I looking at in cost.

Fuel pressure?

I have a 195 intake, is this workable or do I need to go to larger one?

Anymore info woulg be cool.

Also any places too look for one. I would love a vs 1 vortec.

:owned:
 
Go to 42# inj, get the Pro-M reclaibrated but NOT TO THE BLOWER SPEC, just regular spec $100 plus shipping. The fuel curves with the blower spec meters are a PIA. Personally I would try to sell the meter and injectors and upgrade to a 80mm shprty Pro-M metere, it is a much better reading meter then the 75 bullet and you can mount it in the fender with a Power Pipe and not have any issues down the road.

Switching to a 6AL makes no sense at all, only feature you gain is the spark kill in the cylinders with the rev limit pill. The stock EEC will still kill fuel at 6250rpm. It would be best to save up for a good tuner like a PMS, this will give you the best tuning capability and you can changes the revlimit of the motor to anything above 6250 since it piggy backs to the stock EEC.

The 190L intank will be OK, since you'll get a T-rex inline pump if you go with the S-Trim. You'll also get the BTM to pulling timing with boost. Fuel Pressure stock 38psi. The S-trim weill come with a FMU but you will not need it.

Now as far as ring gap goes I would go .025" up top and .027" on the 2nd ring, standard clearnace on the oil ring. That is the newest and greatest way to file rings. It helps make sure that the air gets out from under the ring so you do not get ring flutter or build up heat/pressure and pull the crown of the piston up.

If you need a source for those pistons or rings, bearings etc let me know I can help you out.
 
I know a guy w/ a PMS, wow its a really nice set up. I will have one soon but as for now its not possible. With my tranny, rear end suspention, and blower Im in to this around 7,500.00, and last winter it was another 6,000.00 for the motor and etc. So I have a funny feeling my wife will devorce me it I keep spending. My secrect bank accont is'nt to much more deep.

Anyways,

Rick on the injectors, Im gonna take your advise and go with 42lb. For now Ill have to have my Pro-m calibrated. Cant afford the other. Sooner or later. Ill sell my injector too.

BTM, Im unfamiliar with this. Ive never worked on a bower set up so this is sorta new to me. I never had anyone turn a wrench on my car or motor so Ill learn. Will this kit come with everthing I need aside from injectors?

I will be going with a s-trim kit.

Being that the PMS inst insite for a while (maybe) what else could I do to over come this 6200 cut out. A chip? Any suggestions on this.

I will be interested in the help on rings. I ordered pre-fit for my pistons but realze its time to file fit now.


Any more help or advise would be great. I do worry about my block though. Do I need to order a Dart block? I have a girdle which I understand only holds the peices together when it shatters. lol.

Any guess at HP?
 
manpowermustang said:
I know a guy w/ a PMS, wow its a really nice set up. I will have one soon but as for now its not possible. With my tranny, rear end suspention, and blower Im in to this around 7,500.00, and last winter it was another 6,000.00 for the motor and etc. So I have a funny feeling my wife will devorce me it I keep spending. My secrect bank accont is'nt to much more deep.

Anyways,

Rick on the injectors, Im gonna take your advise and go with 42lb. For now Ill have to have my Pro-m calibrated. Cant afford the other. Sooner or later. Ill sell my injector too.

BTM, Im unfamiliar with this. Ive never worked on a bower set up so this is sorta new to me. I never had anyone turn a wrench on my car or motor so Ill learn. Will this kit come with everthing I need aside from injectors?

I will be going with a s-trim kit.

Being that the PMS inst insite for a while (maybe) what else could I do to over come this 6200 cut out. A chip? Any suggestions on this.

I will be interested in the help on rings. I ordered pre-fit for my pistons but realze its time to file fit now.


Any more help or advise would be great. I do worry about my block though. Do I need to order a Dart block? I have a girdle which I understand only holds the peices together when it shatters. lol.

Any guess at HP?


The kit will come with everything but a colder range plug...

While the motor is apart I would weld a bung into the pan for the oil line drain so you don't have to tap it while it is on the car. I can talk you through it.

The motor should make 450+RWHP, yes it is time to think about a block in the future. Keep the tune good and you should be fine for awhile. Sine the PMS is out then a chip would be a very good idea, they can tune it and get rid of the stock limiter if so needed.

Check your PM
 
yeah 9.0 is fine but if really plan on lotsa boost 8.5 would be best, and with a 347 42's arent gonna be enough injector, i was maxing my 42's at 510rwhp with a 302 so your gonna need atleast a 50# injector maybe even a 55#, if you DO decide to go with the 42's just know that you will be running those at no lower a duty cycle than 95% when trying to feed a 347 boost enough fuel, and properly setup youll make 500rwhp without blinking.
 
manpowermustang said:
I need a vacation from my car sometimes. As of now Im working on this car in my garage unheated. Its -2 out side today. I freeze my but off to build this car.



I NEED A TORPEDO HEATER :damnit:
so i assume your gonna ignore me on the 42's not being enough for a 347 with boost :notnice:
 
With out a tuner a 50-55# inj may be hard on the factory computer, but a chip will help a little just not sure how startup will be with out a good tune.

Scott do you know anyone running a 50-55# inj, haven't really heard a lot about them. We went from 36# to a 72# low impedence on Dads blown 331.


check out www.fuelsystems.biz Alan is a good guy and has the 50 and 55# inj. I'd call Pro-M to make sure the 75mm can handle that size.
 
Rick 91GT said:
With out a tuner a 50-55# inj may be hard on the factory computer, but a chip will help a little just not sure how startup will be with out a good tune.

Scott do you know anyone running a 50-55# inj, haven't really heard a lot about them. We went from 36# to a 72# low impedence on Dads blown 331.


check out www.fuelsystems.biz Alan is a good guy and has the 50 and 55# inj. I'd call Pro-M to make sure the 75mm can handle that size.
Yeah Rick, i myself run low impedance 55# injectors but i have a PMS i tune with, i have it tuned to where it honestly starts and drives like a stocker with these big injectors.
 
manpowermustang said:
not ignoring you on the 42lb injectors, just gathering all the info I can and then Ill order. Not offence Scott. :shrug:
none taken brotha :D just dont wanna see you buy the 42's then see that they are too small and you have to buy larger injectors. always here to help you guys out, ive been running a blower for 6yrs in March so ive been through some issues that id rather not see you guys go through.
 
you will need :



fuel pumps good ones!~ alot of people over look fuel system when the get 80% of the other parts and need to make sure that the pump will have enough volume. lines need to have enough capacity as well


As far as injectors go. you need to base them off how much horsepower and the levels you want to make and base your decision from there for example 30's- 440rwhp 36's-510 rwhp 42's 550rwhp 50's- 600+ Dont hold me to these numbers This is just an example from my past experience.
you will need a good ignition system you dont need a btm if you have the car tuned which i highly recommend!!!!

mass air meters are a joke! a good place that can tune your car even if you had the stock meter can set the car up for 50s or what not. if you do have a meter sent off pro m has worked best for me.. after sending it off 4 times. and make sure you tell them if your going to blow threw it or draw threw it. also have the map trasfer. for the guy whos tune's your car will make it easier on him. McRacing is in Kansas city they are very respectable and have done many many 800rwhp Street cars and have tuned some outlaw cars as well 913-789-9888 they have a dyno jet dyno with a wide ban. they have several differt softwares they mostly use SCT. Fast, Gen seven, diablio,ls1 edit for those chevy guys!

If money is no object then order a fast or a gen seven cause thats going to be your best results. and dont even worry about a chip!