Advice on pan gasket

I looks like I dodged a bullet on this one. After finishing up and getting the car running, there was oil on the garage floor the next morning and I feared the worst. But after scrubbing the oil pan, bell housing and trans down with Purple Power degreaser and a scraper for over an hour, then squirting it with brake cleaner and wiping it dry from end to end, I have yet to find any new leaks. If I could offer any advice to guys chasing leaks, it would be this: my motor has just a tick over 160K on it, and I just assumed the engine was worn out and had a ton of blow-by. But a few weeks ago, I put new plugs and wires in and found the old plugs looked great, even after nearly 90K miles! So I hoped it was just leaks and maybe some fresh gaskets would do the trick. Upon disassembly, I found something I didn't know. The PCV valve evidently had popped out of the plastic bushing gawd-knows-how-long-ago. I'm embarrassed to admit how long I drove the car once it started puking oil on the exhaust, but lets just say it's been awhile. Anyway, I also found out there is a metal filter under the PCV valve that you absolutely cannot see with the intake in the car. This filter was plugged solid on the bottom, so I replaced it when I put in the new gaskets. Since the valve cover bolts were literally finger tight, those things leaked as well. My manual must've been written by the same engineer that designed the hard-to-get-to PCV setup, because the torque specs are listed as 3-5 ft/lbs on valve cover bolts. The GT valve covers are a hell of a lot stronger and thicker than the Shelby valve covers on my vintage Mustang, so I reefed down on them to the tune of 20 ft lbs and bought good rubber Fel-Pros to replace the stockers. I doubt they'll be leaking anytime soon. The result is a car that idles like new, doesn't leak a drop and starts right up. I only wish I'd done this a long time ago rather than put up with the leaks. Thanks to lots of info on this forum I was able to get it done quickly and cheaply.