Aftermarket T5 shifters in classics

SadbutTrue

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
#1
Ive been told to be sure I use an aftermarket shifter with the T5, one built to avoid over-shifting (which I gather is an issue with the stocker). The Pro-5.0 has been recommended along with several Hurst shifters. In addition, adapters and spacers have been mentioned.

I'm kinda short (5'9") and don't have chimpanzee like reach, so I need a shifter that (one way or another) doesn't require extremely long reaches to 3rd and 5th. It also needs to... fit in the classics and not interfere with various things, as I've heard some shifters designed with Fox/SN95 mustangs in mind do. If someone could recommend a shifter with a good orientation/length for a short-armed driver, while also providing the supposed over-shift protection and reasonably short throws (i love classic stuff in general, but dont want to feel like a truck driver here), I'd love to hear it.

I'll also need someone to explain the spacers, adapter plates, and what have you (and where to get them).

Thanks a bunch
 
#2
Get a Pro 5.0 or a Steeda Tri-Ax. You may have to notch the leading edge of the shifter hole in the tranny tunnel.

Get a Hurst handle or do what I did - get the "stock looking" T5 handle. About $100 from NPD. It is bent WAY back towards the driver - just like the originals
 
#4
68RCodeConv said:
Get a Pro 5.0 or a Steeda Tri-Ax. You may have to notch the leading edge of the shifter hole in the tranny tunnel.

Get a Hurst handle or do what I did - get the "stock looking" T5 handle. About $100 from NPD. It is bent WAY back towards the driver - just like the originals
Click to expand...

Do you know which hurst handle to go with? I'm pretty sure they have multiple lines.

And does anyone know about that over-shifting thign that was mentioned in the other t5 threads? Something about stop-screws...
 
#5
SadbutTrue said:
And does anyone know about that over-shifting thign that was mentioned in the other t5 threads? Something about stop-screws...
Click to expand...
The tranny consists of an input shaft with a gear that's in constant mesh with a counter shaft, aka gear cluster. The gears on this counter shaft are press-fit to the shaft and they are in constant mesh with the gears on the output shaft. Each gear on the output shaft spins freely until it is selected and locked to the output shaft. A slider is what locks a gear to the output shaft. A shifter fork is what moves the slider. The shifter in your hand is what moves the fork. If the fork is pushed too hard it gets bent, aka FUBAR, which is what your T5 as a whole is at this point.

The shifter moves around inside a quadrant. The range of motion available in the stock shifter quadrant is greater than what is needed to move the forks. The aftermarket shifters put a stop screw in the front and the rear of the quadrant to limit its range of motion, so you can't bend the forks.

How's that for a bunch of words to explain a pretty simple idea?

I think before you take Wrench One to a T5 you should buy the Hanlon Motorsports how-to rebuild video. http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ I see that they only want $16.

I see also that they sell shim kits for bearing retainers. You are going to need this to go with the bearing retainer that I am UPS-ing to you today. Hanlon also sells shifters. So there you have a package deal. They might also have the steel countergear stabilizer that you might want to install. I know Medatronics does: http://www.5speeds.com/t5.htm
 
#6
Most aftermarket shifters come with adjustable stops built into the shifter base. You really can't go wrong with the Pro 5.0 or the Tri-Axe. My personal favorite is the MGW but they don't offer a long handle(they use a different saft design) that would be needed for the classic.
Kevin
 
#7
Go to the Summit web site and search Hurst Shift Stick. I also googled the same and found a web site with diagrams of them and the deminsions. I got one that has about the same bend as the original shifter and it is very easy to reach. I don't remember which number it is but there are about 15 different bends and offsets.
 
#8
Sicarius428 said:
Most aftermarket shifters come with adjustable stops built into the shifter base. You really can't go wrong with the Pro 5.0 or the Tri-Axe. My personal favorite is the MGW but they don't offer a long handle(they use a different saft design) that would be needed for the classic.
Kevin
Click to expand...
I've got an MGW in my '65 fb. It's got the new-ish gold handle. You can sorta see it in this pic:

180416.jpg


Here's a pic from the MGW web site:

t-45-Thumb.jpg


I'm 5' 10" (barely) and I push the seat all the way back. I can make the third gear shift no problem. The fifth gear shift, my shoulder comes off the seat back a little and I have to exercise a little more care than I do on the 2nd to 3rd shift (a T5 weakness IMO), but it's acceptable.
 
#9
I have a Pro 5.0 and like it much better then my buddy's Steeda Triax- I think its a bit less notchy.

As far as the shifter arm, I took my stock 3 speed handle, cut off the base, grinded one side flat, and drilled two holes through it, then mounted it to the Pro 5.0 base. No one would know I have a late model trans or shifter if you just look into my car and I dont have to reach at all to shift it.
 
#10
coolblue65 said:
I have a Pro 5.0 and like it much better then my buddy's Steeda Triax- I think its a bit less notchy.

As far as the shifter arm, I took my stock 3 speed handle, cut off the base, grinded one side flat, and drilled two holes through it, then mounted it to the Pro 5.0 base. No one would know I have a late model trans or shifter if you just look into my car and I dont have to reach at all to shift it.
Click to expand...

Ditto :)
 
#13
66Runt said:
If your reach is in proportion to your inseam, you will probably end up with the shift ball about 2" forward of where your hand would fall naturally.
CoolBlue's modification is a good idea, you can also buy one all ready built through NPD (probably others as well).
Here is a picture of the "Classic" Hurst lever mounted to a stock T5z shifter (the Aftermarket shifters would put it in the same place). I plan on fabricating a block to move it back 1" and angling back the additional inch.
T-5-assembly-on-bench.webp



Interior_lit_up.webp


Good luck.

BTW: I've recently transplanted the T5z into my s/c'd 90GT with a Pro 5.0 shifter. The shifter is a huge difference over even the stock T5z short throw shifter. I'd highly recommend a good shifter.
Click to expand...

NPD sells Pro-5.0's with classic-type levers on em? Got a part #?

Anyone know any other dealers for the Pro 5.0? Having a hard time finding it at summit...
 
#14
HistoricMustang said:
Go here: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400134+303491+115&autoview=sku

It looks just like the top loader application.

Put a 4-speed knob on and fool the competition plus those individuals they call tech inspectors.

I used one in the road racer and got it through tech every time as a four speed box.

HistoricMustang
Click to expand...

And would you happen to know which one of those is roughly the right length for the 65-66's? I'm going to NPD later and could probably take some measurements on their 5 speed swap lever, and then get the Hurst thats closest and save 50 bucks, but it would be easier just to get the # from someone heh
 
#16
SadbutTrue said:
And would you happen to know which one of those is roughly the right length for the 65-66's? I'm going to NPD later and could probably take some measurements on their 5 speed swap lever, and then get the Hurst thats closest and save 50 bucks, but it would be easier just to get the # from someone heh
Click to expand...

Sorry, the race car was sold to a gentleman in Europe. Mine was identical to the Hurst Competition Plus shifter handle so perhaps a StangNet member can get a ruler out and measure his Competition Plus"unit" and let the group know.

HistoricMustang
 
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