• Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Almost done with Randalls rack install and have a Q re: clearance

  • Thread starter Thread starter jim7485
  • Start date Start date Oct 30, 2004
J

jim7485

Founding Member
Jan 5, 2002
64
0
0
Michigan
Oct 30, 2004
#1
  • Oct 30, 2004
  • #1
First off, let me tell you that Randall aka Randalls Rack is a class act. I bought his kit some months ago and started the install. I got sidetracked for several reasons, but Randall has responded quickly to every inquiry I've sent his way. Even called me on a Sunday once to check on my progress. I got to the intermediate shaft the other day and found that it is VERY close to the frame rail as you can see in this picture.

The shaft is about 1/8 inch from the frame rail. To solve the problmem, Randall recommended that I mount the firewall bracket as far as possible toward the engine, which will give me clearance of about 3/8 to 1/2 inch. This still seems a bit tight to me, given the possible flex in a convertible. Maybe I'm nuts (likely) but is this too close? I've considered, and rejected the idea of cutting the frame rail to weld in a curved plate. The cut would be about 1 inch wide by 2 inches long on an angle to match the intermediate shaft. I still like this idea but every time I mention it, people look at me like I just landed from mars. There's been some great discussions here about R&P so please post your ideas.

Thanks in advance.
jim-
 

Attachments

  • rack_shaft.webp
    114.6 KB · Views: 267

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
23
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Oct 30, 2004
#2
  • Oct 30, 2004
  • #2
Yeah, I'd weld in a piece of tubing for the clearance.
 

DukeGnarley

Member
Apr 2, 2003
597
2
19
Auburn/Ellensburg, Wa
Oct 31, 2004
#3
  • Oct 31, 2004
  • #3
i think that the location is close enough to the point where the frame rail meets the firewall, that you won't experience enough flex to be concerned about................... but i am no expert.
 

dolfan87

Founding Member
Dec 28, 2000
1,242
0
0
Lake Havasu, AZ
Oct 31, 2004
#4
  • Oct 31, 2004
  • #4
I would run it, and see what happens. Drive it around some corners, take it over a couple bumps, then get under the car and see if it has rubbed anywhere.

This saves you work that you may not even need to do. You only NEED enough space for the thing to rotate, and if nothing really flexes in that area, you have no concerns.

Just my .02 cents.

87
 
I

iamlance

New Member
Sep 18, 2004
127
0
0
Oct 31, 2004
#5
  • Oct 31, 2004
  • #5
What do you think of the kit overall?? Looks good on the website. I've emailed Randall twice in the past 3 weeks with some questions and other than an auto-response , no word. I don't think Randall likes me
 
J

jim7485

Founding Member
Jan 5, 2002
64
0
0
Michigan
Oct 31, 2004
#6
  • Oct 31, 2004
  • #6
Randall

The kit looks fantastic and I'm amazed that Randall has not returned your e-mails. He has been very responsive to me. I'd give it another try. He's at SEMA this weekend, so maybe try Monday. This is a really high quality heavy duty unit. Here's another pic...


jim-
 

Attachments

  • rack_B4_install_web.webp
    32 KB · Views: 309
B

bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
3
77
lubbock, texas
Oct 31, 2004
#7
  • Oct 31, 2004
  • #7
hey guys i'd just like to add someting to this conversation, randall shows a mod on his website about re-drilling the tie-rod mount on the granada spindle, and wanted to say that you can accomplish the same thing using the pro-motorsports bump steer correcter kit, although it is a lot more expensive than randall's mod this way you don't have to drill on the spindle. just another option for you guys is all, for anyone who is not familiar with the mod it is designed to allow you to regain any lost turning radius after installing the rack kit, if any is lost at all. i have also spoken to randall several times through email and he does seem to be a great guy, i will be geting my rack kit from him when i get the car ready for that stage
 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
0
0
Miami
Oct 31, 2004
#8
  • Oct 31, 2004
  • #8
looks clean. was it a true drop-in installation?

I've been thinking about R&P, but didn't want to lose my power steering by going with the FR kit.
 
I

iamlance

New Member
Sep 18, 2004
127
0
0
Oct 31, 2004
#9
  • Oct 31, 2004
  • #9
Well, I had a friend of mine e-mail Randall and he replied within an hour. Problem with our e-mails , I guess.
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
23
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Nov 1, 2004
#10
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #10
dolfan87 said:
I would run it, and see what happens. Drive it around some corners, take it over a couple bumps, then get under the car and see if it has rubbed anywhere.

This saves you work that you may not even need to do. You only NEED enough space for the thing to rotate, and if nothing really flexes in that area, you have no concerns.

Just my .02 cents.

87
Click to expand...

If you do this, you might consider claying it up like you would for a piston to see valve clearance. Get a wad of clay and stick it to the framerail and up touching the shaft. Go drive around and see how it's displaced the clay. Triple expanding foam might work as well as it'll crush the foam, but I think it has a bit of springback.
 
J

jim7485

Founding Member
Jan 5, 2002
64
0
0
Michigan
Nov 1, 2004
#11
  • Nov 1, 2004
  • #11
to answer an earlier post....

Yes it was basically a bolt-in. The only issues I had to deal with were cutting the steering shaft to length and buying/cutting the tie rods. Thankfully, I have a buddy with access to a machine shop. The steering shaft mod is not a garage-type fix. It's got to be done right. Here's a snap shot of a tie rod. The inners are from an 80's car and the outers from a 66. The 'elbow' in the middle came with the kit and mates the two together. All three pieces had to be cut in order to get a proper length. If there is one drawback in the kit, it is this item. Although it was about $100 in parts, I think they should have been included and pre-cut to length.
Otherwise, I love it. Can't wait for a drive- then I can report more detailed info.

jim-
 

Attachments

  • tie_rod_new_web.webp
    68.1 KB · Views: 197
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Suspension 87 steering wheel slightly wobbles after new Rag joint install
  • R82148V
  • Jun 16, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
  • 2
Replies
25
Views
985
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jun 24, 2025
R82148V
E
Finished my Fox Hydroboost Install - Tips
  • Engineer Duane
  • Apr 9, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 5, 2025
Engineer Duane
E
H
Drivetrain 4R70W clutch friction/metals/piston set up questions for transmission guru
  • Hizdudeness
  • Apr 4, 2024
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
2
Views
986
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Nov 15, 2024
slow84lx
S
S
Fox New to me 82 GT
  • Stangman7082
  • Jan 20, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2 3
Replies
41
Views
3K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 18, 2025
AeroCoupe
M
Progress Thread mnky99 2001 V6 evap core, ac compressor, heater core replacement
  • mnky99
  • Sep 5, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
1
Views
521
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Sep 5, 2025
mnky99
M
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?