Electrical Alternator (91 Mustang GT & 89 Lincoln Mark VII)

Jhp84

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Another update. Removed the water pump and pulled the radiator to clean between it and the condenser. That's when we noticed that one of the lines to the condenser was pinched and cut (see picture). And, when we pulled the water pump and thermostat, we noticed a substantial amount of rust, not just discoloration but large deposits (see pictures). So, the question is, before we replace the water pump, what else should we remove/replace (or do) to reduce/eliminate the rust in the engine. Is most of this from the radiator or the block? Should we assume the heater core will similarly be corroded?

As for the condenser, assume we have to replace a couple of things, including refrigerant. Is this a costly endeavor? If so, should we eliminate the a/c (we live in So. California which can get quite hot in the summer)? By the way, any videos on how to remove the condenser lines.

Thx, Jhp
 

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I would replace everything I could in the cooling system, radiator, hoses, heater core, t stat and the heater hose tube on top of the manifold. I also would pop the freeze plugs and flush the block, that would be easy to do if you pulled the engine but can be done with the block in place. but that's me, you likely could get away with a flush and fill but that hose looked pretty crusty and I don't like to take things apart more than once. If you are replacing the heater core do the evaporator too, it's too easy then, you're right there.
You could possibly get the condenser fixed but I'd buy a one new and see what happens when charged up, it is old and should be rebuilt too but not critical like a cooling system.
 

Jhp84

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I would replace everything I could in the cooling system, radiator, hoses, heater core, t stat and the heater hose tube on top of the manifold. I also would pop the freeze plugs and flush the block, that would be easy to do if you pulled the engine but can be done with the block in place. but that's me, you likely could get away with a flush and fill but that hose looked pretty crusty and I don't like to take things apart more than once. If you are replacing the heater core do the evaporator too, it's too easy then, you're right there.
You could possibly get the condenser fixed but I'd buy a one new and see what happens when charged up, it is old and should be rebuilt too but not critical like a cooling system.
Appreciate the advice.

You recommend we pull the engine out? If so, any recommendations on videos or sites with pictures that provide solid advice for removing the engine? And, while it's out, what else should we consider doing?

For the heater core, am I going to have to remove the dash?
 

Mustang5L5

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If you are going to pull the engine out, you might as well make a bigger project out of it. New gaskets, degrease, paint, etc. it's a little project, but you'll be able to get s kit of little things done.

Yes, dash needs to be unbolted and pulled away from firewall on pass side. Not a bad job to pull a dash
 
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Jhp84

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If you are going to pull the engine out, you might as well make a bigger project out of it. New gaskets, degrease, paint, etc. it's a little project, but you'll be able to get s kit of little things done.

Yes, dash needs to be unbolted and pulled away from firewall on pass side. Not a bad job to pull a dash
Talked it over with my son. We seem to be leaning that way. The engine has a heck of a lot of grease. Not sure if from the valve covers or from the timing cover or some place elsewhere.

But it has been there for years, because we removed layers of grease and debris just from the crank pulley and the frame support for the radiator. The car had been sitting in my friend's driveway for about ten years and probably had been neglected well before that.

Anyway, a little tight in our garage, but I think we can borrow a hoist to pull it out. Not sure if we should pull the tranny at the same time (it's an automatic). Or pull it out separately. Or leave it there for a later time, after we get the car running on the road to see if there are issues with it. (My wife says to stay focused one job at a time.) My friend says the tranny was fine at the time he stopped using it; he claims the car died out on him and he didn't want to fuss with it at the time (so he bought a new car instead).

Your thoughts?
 

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Mustang5L5

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If it was my car, I'd pull the motor and power wash everything and just clean the engine up and put it back. Just need gasket, elbow grease and time.

If unbolt the AOD, unbolt the torque converter and pull the motor separate. AODs are heavy and some of the smaller hoists don't have the capacity or height to pull the AOD and engine together. Ask me how I know
 

Rdub6

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I think your wife has some good advice!!! I start one thing, and as I’m into it, get ideas for other things! I definitely find it hard to stay on task with so much I want to get done. In the end, my budget tells me what task is getting done!! Lol.

I had a ton of grease on mine as well when I started with it. I really think a big culprit was a loose clamp on a power steering hose for me. That belt and fan will sling it around everywhere!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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One thing at a time can be inaccurate but a good start. Think of pulling the engine as one thing, leave the trans with the torque converter in it as mentioned, clean the engine compartment and the engine, change the gaskets and seals, fix any wiring that needs it, some new stuff and stick it back in and that part is done.
then comes the interior, you can address the heater core and ac evaporator then. Remember, it's the journey, not the destination.
and I always recommend a good repair manual,, not just a chiltons or haynes but one specific to the model/year you have.
 

Jhp84

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One .... Remember, it's the journey, not the destination.
and I always recommend a good repair manual,, not just a chiltons or haynes but one specific to the model/year you have.
Thanks. Any manual recommendation for a 91 Mustang GT?

Got the project car running and noticed there was coolant leaking out the front nipple located on the front of the EGR spacer. Thought the clamp was loose. Went to tighten it and coolant went flying everywhere. Seems the nipple rusted through and broke off at the EGR spacer body. Do we need to get another? Or can we repair? Possibly tap the inlet/outlet and put in new nipples? Something else?

Thanks, Jhp
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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You could possibly dig it out and stick another in there but I think a new on is not expensive, or leave them off and cap the heater tube and the nipple on the back of the intake.
i think it cools the egr gases so if your emissions stuff is still hooked up I would fix it.
 

Jhp84

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Just bypass it for now. Connect a tube between the two hoses.

Next time you are at the yard, find a mark with the 5.0 Ho and take one
Did that today. Picked one up from an 89 Lincoln Mark VII.

Thought about grabbing the seats from the same car but wasn't sure if they would fit. Concerned because these were fully automatic and the Mustang's aren't. These were in remarkably good shape. Thought we could just grab the seats and mount them on the foxbody seat rails. Decided to leave them since had difficulty moving them to remove the bolts (no power w/o a battery).

Any idea if they would fit?

Jhp
 

Jhp84

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You could possibly dig it out and stick another in there but I think a new on is not expensive, or leave them off and cap the heater tube and the nipple on the back of the intake.
i think it cools the egr gases so if your emissions stuff is still hooked up I would fix it.
Decided to get replacement. Been told that the EGR is required in California to comply with emission requirements. Besides the jaunts to the junkyard are a great way to pass the time with my son.
 
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Mustang5L5

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Did that today. Picked one up from an 89 Lincoln Mark VII.

Thought about grabbing the seats from the same car but wasn't sure if they would fit. Concerned because these were fully automatic and the Mustang's aren't. These were in remarkably good shape. Thought we could just grab the seats and mount them on the foxbody seat rails. Decided to leave them since had difficulty moving them to remove the bolts (no power w/o a battery).

Any idea if they would fit?

Jhp
I believe so. The electric tracks might be a bit bulky, but you can bolt the seats to your seat tracks instead.

There is power under each seat. There's 12V for the power lumbar that some mustangs come with
 

Jhp84

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I believe so. The electric tracks might be a bit bulky, but you can bolt the seats to your seat tracks instead.

There is power under each seat. There's 12V for the power lumbar that some mustangs come with
My apologies for not being clear. The Lincoln at the yard doesn't have power, so we had difficulty moving the seats to get to the bolts. The Lincoln was placed too closely between two other cars and it was challenging to get in the car.

On an unrelated note, the Lincoln had the complete rear end in place. We have thought about switching over to five lugs rims and full disk brakes. Would the rear end swap work out. Any improvement on the differential? Imagine I would have to grab the master cylinder as well. Anything else?
 

Mustang5L5

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Rear end is an 8.8 but has the disk brakes that are similar to 84-86 SVO brakes. They are 1.25" wider each side and lack the quad shock mount. Might be some other differences as well.

If you want 5-lug, a better car to source the brakes from is a 94--04 Mustang V6, or a 94-98 GT if you want the entire axle.
 

Jhp84

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Rear end is an 8.8 but has the disk brakes that are similar to 84-86 SVO brakes. They are 1.25" wider each side and lack the quad shock mount. Might be some other differences as well.

If you want 5-lug, a better car to source the brakes from is a 94--04 Mustang V6, or a 94-98 GT if you want the entire axle.
What are the advantages or disadvantages to an 8.8? Other options to consider instead?

Thx, Jhp
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Advantages
You trip over them when in the ford row at the junk, er,I mean salvage yard, from mustang to explorer to pickups, they had one, ever since about what '83? So there is likely one or two hiding in the weeds everywhere, now they all don't bolt right into a mustang but the guts in 90% of them do I bet. Even 31 spline units, oh and don't forget the IRS stuff in the newer mustangs and even explorer and more. I know of at least one that is behind a 1200 hp hatch on slicks.
Cheaper than a 9 inch for street and most drag applications.
disadvantage
the axle tubes bend when applying lots of horses on sticky tires and the c clips will let the axle and wheel exit without notification. Both have an easy fix.
this my opinion and based solely on what I've read over the years on other people and what they build and break.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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What are the advantages or disadvantages to an 8.8? Other options to consider instead?

Thx, Jhp

Disregard, you already have an 8.8 axle. All you need to do is swap the brakes over to your axle housing.

You can snatch up all the parts from the junkyard. Would be a good project if you are willing to undertake it. Plenty of V6 mustangs to take parts from i'd imagine.

If this is something you want to do I can put together a list
 

Jhp84

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Disregard, you already have an 8.8 axle. All you need to do is swap the brakes over to your axle housing.

You can snatch up all the parts from the junkyard. Would be a good project if you are willing to undertake it. Plenty of V6 mustangs to take parts from i'd imagine.

If this is something you want to do I can put together a list
Appreciate this. Been having fun with my son at the junk yard (we call it the alternative parts store).
 
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