Electrical Alternator (91 Mustang GT & 89 Lincoln Mark VII)

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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That floor pan appears pretty bad but not sure from the pics, you could get replacement or a cut out piece from a salvage yard. Then do the subframe co with the seat braces. The trans fluid should be changed along with the filter but sometimes with transmissions that have a ton of miles and never been serviced don't function too well after a few miles, some last long time, you never know. As for the steering rack just replace it and flush the fluid from the pump.
 
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Mustang5L5

Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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The tube is a vent tube designed to allow the air from one set of bellows to flow to the opposite side bellows when the rack moves side to side. They typically can be purchased separately (check rockauto). However, you'll need to pull the outer tie rod ends to get them on, and will need wire clamps for them. I'd check to see if your tire rod ends are in good shape first as you'll need an alignment afterwards so might as well replace some parts while you are doing that. The tie rod ends and inners tend to be cheap. Make sure that grease is oil from the engine, and not from the rack first. If it's from the rack...you'll need a new rack.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
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...Lastly, we see two drain plugs on the oil pan. One is up front, the other is further back...
Yes, there are 2 drain plugs. The indentation in the oil pan for steering rack clearance necessitated the one in the front of the pan. Front section holds about 1/2 Qt if you do not remove it. If you only remove the front plug, the rear section will retain about 1 Qt.
I replaced both drain plugs with Fumoto drain valves. They will last longer than the car. Mine are 30 years old.
http://www.fumotousa.com/
 

Jhp84

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Mar 2, 2019
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Got the seats, console, and carpet out to assess the situation with the floorpan. Does this seem like we could raise the damaged section and weld it in place? Or do we have to replace the entire thing? Let us know if the pictures are helpful? Our if a different angle would be better.

Thanks, jhp
 

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Jhp84

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Mar 2, 2019
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Noticed additional cracks on the passenger side as well as some rust. The rust appears to be on the surface but wondering if it might be compromised.

Also, we noticed a slew of unconnected wires harnesses on the inside, probably related to the aftermarket radio that was installed. Seems there was also an aftermarkey alarm or remote installed that resulted in a number of cut wires. Not sure if these carryover from an amplifier or other modifications. Any thoughts.

While it is kind of fun running into surprises (and learning as we do), got to say it's getting a little concerning that we are going down a rabbit hole. Tell us that there aren't that many surprises in store (even if you have to lie to us).

Thanks, Jhp
 

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reddragons

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Feb 23, 2014
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Thanks. Any manual recommendation for a 91 Mustang GT?

Got the project car running and noticed there was coolant leaking out the front nipple located on the front of the EGR spacer. Thought the clamp was loose. Went to tighten it and coolant went flying everywhere. Seems the nipple rusted through and broke off at the EGR spacer body. Do we need to get another? Or can we repair? Possibly tap the inlet/outlet and put in new nipples? Something else?

Thanks, Jhp
I've found this very helpful for Engine and chassis work on my 91 Fox ------->
1991 Ford Mustang Shop Service Repair Manual Book Engine Drivetrain Electrical

This is essential for wiring------->
1991 Ford Mustang Electrical and Vacuum Trouble Shooting Service Shop Manual

These two will help a lot with what it sounds like you are trying to do.... Uphill battle ahead!... But it should be good times for you and your son. ;)
 
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Mustang5L5

Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Got the seats, console, and carpet out to assess the situation with the floorpan. Does this seem like we could raise the damaged section and weld it in place? Or do we have to replace the entire thing? Let us know if the pictures are helpful? Our if a different angle would be better.

Thanks, jhp
Drill a hole at the start and end of each crack, and then take a welder and stitch up each crack. Then, install a good set of Subframe connectors. Then, forget you ever saw them.
 
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Jhp84

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Mar 2, 2019
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I've found this very helpful for Engine and chassis work on my 91 Fox ------->
1991 Ford Mustang Shop Service Repair Manual Book Engine Drivetrain Electrical

This is essential for wiring------->
1991 Ford Mustang Electrical and Vacuum Trouble Shooting Service Shop Manual

These two will help a lot with what it sounds like you are trying to do.... Uphill battle ahead!... But it should be good times for you and your son. ;)
Yes, been more good times lately with the son. Wife's happier that we are getting along, too. Both good things.

Btw, I remember someone posting an electronic version of the same or similar book previously on this forum. Thought I had downloaded earlier, just in case. Can't seem to find it now. Wondering if anyone has it available electronically.

Thanks, Jhp
 

Jhp84

Member
Mar 2, 2019
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Thanks. That's the one. Maybe I will be able to track down those errant electrical connectors. Going to look up the part numbers. Removed a few of the extraneous wires floating around under the dash. Nearest we can figure is that they were part of an amplifier/speaker setup and part of an after market alarm system.

Cleaned up the rust on the floor pan. Started to reshape the floor pan and prepped the areas where we are going to weld. Got the welding masks, gloves, and shirts today. Borrowing the welder from a friend. Will try laying a few tack welds to hold the pan in place. And, if we are successful, we will go ahead and try laying some lines.

Thanks all for the support.

Jhp
 

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Mustang5L5

Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Those are radio/amp connections.

Also keep in mind the 90-93 cars are wired a bit different than the 87-89 cars in the evtm. Wire colors remained mostly the same but connectors and such changed
 

Jhp84

Member
Mar 2, 2019
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california
Good morning,

Still working on the welding with my son. The stitching isn't going as well or as easy as we thought. Need more practice, I guess. We burned through a few spots (yep, a little too long holding the gun, mainly me) or just welded on the surface (mainly my son not holding long enough). But, we are okay; having a few laughs at our mistakes is good for both of us. We figure that by the time we get through with this, we might be able to tackle taking off a radiator support from our alternative parts store (the JY) and weld it on the car.

We also finally ended up replacing the transmission fluid. Should have been an easy thing, but seems that the previous owner had removed the catalytic converters and welded on connectors that made it difficult to remove the pan (not sure how, because it should have given us more room without the cats, I thought). Anyway, when we finally got the pan off, that there was transmission bolt in there that had come undone (the middle one, toward the rear). Ended up putting it back in and checking the torque on the other bolts while we down there.

We got to talking about replacing the automatic with a manual. Not something that we are likely to do right away, given we haven't seen any at the JY (usually pulled out by the time we see them). Wondering what other cars/years we could be looking at from which to grab a transmission. We've seen threads referencing a T-5 and other Ford transmission types, but given we hadn't thought much about this before, we weren't paying too much attention. Thoughts?

Thanks again. jhp and son.
 

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Jhp84

Member
Mar 2, 2019
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Pushed the car back into the garage to continue to work on it without being concerned about the weather or the daylight.

Well noticed black oil on the floor and assumed it was coming from the power steering pump because I knew the oil in the block and in the transmission were recently changed. Sure enough, steering fluid has squirted out of the reservoir, onto the area around the battery and starter solenoid, and up onto the inside of the hood. Black fluid which seemed odd because I had added power steering fluid earlier, about a month or so ago.

Why would it black? And, why would it squirt out when the car wasn't running? We pushed the car into the garage, turning the steering wheel left and right as we eased the car into place. Do we simply drain the reservoir and the lines, and then replace and refill the steering fluid? Or is something potentially more serious to be concerned about?

Thanks, jhp and son.
 

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Jhp84

Member
Mar 2, 2019
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It is coming from the reservoir cap, from the little hole (see picture of cap). We also suspect this because there is oil on the hood (driver side).

Unless, you mean, do we know how oil-colored fluid got into the reservoir? Then no.

However, when we first picked up the car and had it towed to our house, we noticed that there was the same black oil/fluid on the floor on the driver side. Didn't pay much attention at the time, since we knew the car had been idled for years.
 

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
If the car will run then flush the ps unit. Grab three quarts of atf or power steering fluid (I use ps fluid) put the return line in a good sized bucket, start the engine and keep pouring fluid into the reservoir until it flows clean. shut off the engine and hook every back up.