another UCA ?ion

[rednotch88]

I'm ready to buy some UCA's,and already have TRZ solid bushings on the axle.Should I run a solid bushing on the torque box side or a rubber one?it is mostly a weekend warrior with occasional cruising.I'm not to worried about a harsh ride...Just don't want to damage anything. I have battle boxed welded upper and lower also.
Give me some input people.
Thanks you

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

you've already got the torque boxes beefed up go for the solid mounts. but it your doing so on the uppers do the same on the lowers

 

[time only]

It is not a good idea for solid bushing anywhere. IMHO

 

[rednotch88]

everyone says something different...sux

 

[1991notchbackLX]

Step 1: Think of suspension question.
Step 2: Call Maximum Motorsports.
Step 3: Follow what Maximum Motorsports says.
Step 4: Profit.

 

[90lxcoupe]

dont be a girl... go solid

you already answered the question, you did all the right stuff, like welding the tq boxes, and you have a drag setup on the car.

The way a rubber bushing works is it flexes when you hit the gas, so what its basically doing is changing the pinion angle when it flexes. they will wear out from launching the car, and can change the pinion angle enough to cause major suspension problems.

 

[rednotch88]

*** it ima just go solid edelbrocks

 

[rednotch88]

n/m ...cant make upmind

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

come on go solid. don't be a nancy, nancy lol its like saying 4.10s are too much for a street car.

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

You're not suppose to put solid mounts or poly urethene in the uppers becuase it will oblong the bolt hole. atleast maximum motorsports says. you can read it on there website. but i just put these on today

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

I have a hard time believing that. I've only seen one car do that and its a 408w that's a full drag car and it took him like 10years for it to barely even move the bolt. and that's 10years of nothing but cutting 1.5 60fts. btw the car didn't have anything done to reinforce the sf's or torque boxes.

 

[90lxcoupe]

I have a hard time believing that. I've only seen one car do that and its a 408w that's a full drag car and it took him like 10years for it to barely even move the bolt. and that's 10years of nothing but cutting 1.5 60fts. btw the car didn't have anything done to reinforce the sf's or torque boxes.

oh its possible, happend to my car, 2 years of abuse with 480rwhp and drag radials (plus 2 season with the new motor) will do it. if you weld a washer to the hole, it will prevent this from happening. If your building a street/strip car, and doing things the right way, these things are bound to happen, its endless.

If you dont use solid bushings you run the chance of the axle housing rotating on launch enough to make the shocks hit the shock mounts... which will bend the shocks and cause them to fail. Ask me how i know... cause i had rubber in the axle housing, and now i have 2 junk strange shocks sitting on the floor of my garage

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

IMO, upper control arms are a waste of time. But to answer your question, you need some give there. Go with rubber bushings somewhere.

 

[rednotch88]

I think ima go with rubber bushings on the torque box side(upper)....

 

[90lxcoupe]

I think ima go with rubber bushings on the torque box side(upper)....

that makes absolutly no sense, you've got a car with a full cage, anti-roll bar, and fuel cell, with battle boxes and your going to put rubber bushings in it... you building a car to drive to the beach or the strip?

 

[rednotch88]

I'd like to drive to both.I don't want to be limited when and where i can drive the car ya know.I'd like to be able to unhook anti roll bar and drive it on street.I don't want to be tearing the bolt holes in the upper torque boxes too.
Is J&M a good control arm?

 

[Shaolin Crane]

Step 1: Think of suspension question.
Step 2: Call Maximum Motorsports.
Step 3: Follow what Maximum Motorsports says.
Step 4: Profit.

I concur with that statement

 

[1991notchbackLX]

From the Maximum Motorsports website:

"Do NOT use urethane in the upper arms to improve the side to side motion of the axle. Because of the three dimensional movement of the upper arms, severe binding will be induced as the suspension moves--with or without a Panhard bar. This effect may not be evident in a drag-only car, but if you plan to drive the car on the street at all, we do not recommend urethane in the upper arms."

It seems to me like you're building a straight-line car though, with the amount of chassis work you have into it. I suppose you've heard both sides of the argument now though, and the decision is on you.