Any cheap mods on this combo?

GroverDill

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#1

• Apr 2, 2011

• #1

The basics are

GT 40 heads
GT 40 intake
E cam
BBK shorties
Catted H pipe (2 cats only I think BBK)
Flow master mufflers and looks like stock tail pipes
AFPR
Pullies

Stock
MAF
TB
Air box
injectors

Would a MAF or TB upgrade make any real difference? I am thinking not. This is the driver so I am only looking at small inexpensive upgrades

 

aar0s

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#2

• Apr 2, 2011

• #2

damnit, ill be glad when the pics go right side up.
I dont see how a TB would hurt, the gt40 inlet is 65mm i think so i would go with at least that.

 

GroverDill

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#3

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The picture is upside down?

 

aar0s

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#4

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All the pics that are on stangnet are still upside down on mine. Quote, edit, my avatar, your avatar, every img.

 

ReefBlueHatch

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Apr 2, 2011

#5

• Apr 2, 2011

• #5

I had a noticeable difference on my stock motor when I put on a C&L 76mm MAF I bought used for $75. I'm sure a 65mm TB would be helpful too, Ford put them on GT40 equipped Cobras and Explorers.

 

GroverDill

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#6

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OK I feel dumb, just pulled the air intake off the car and it has a C&L 73 and what looks like a 65mm TB and spacer(the opening matches all the way from thr TB into the GT40 upper). The good news is the deal keeps getting even better, but I feel dumb.

So the airbox has a K&N too, it does have stock orange 19#ers!

 

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

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#7

• Apr 3, 2011

• #7

Did you check to make sure that the silencer is gone? Did you check the timing? Are you still running the air pump and cats? Dropping that stuff is worth a few ponies. How about a short-belt? I don't know what you consider cheap, but an electric fan would free up a few ponies, too. You didn't list gears. Since it's a driver, I doubt you're interested in drag radials, but that would definitely be a good match to go along with any gears you installed. Roller Rockers? Will 1.7s or 1.72s fit? The extra lift would help a little.

Chris

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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#8

• Apr 3, 2011

• #8

At this point...I'd just put gas in it and drive. If you need faster...hop in the other mustang

 

Cobra912

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#9

• Apr 3, 2011

• #9

yep. it all starts with one little change, then next thing you know it's a big block with twins

 

S&B

I hate my CT. :(

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#10

• Apr 3, 2011

• #10

If its running good i would just put my effort into the A/C and cleaning stuff up a bit. I believe you will use the car for a year or two put some miles on it and sell it for around 7k then move on to the next. So keep it simple you already have Tomcat in the shed

 

GroverDill

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#11

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Silencer is gone.
timing is currently 10* may up it to 12 I hear iron heads dont like timing as much as alumin.
Electric fan already in place.
Smog pump is also intact, it passes CA smog!
Gears are stock 3.08's
Not sure on rockers since I havent planned on pulling the valve covers.

I guess I will add a little timing and just drive it, it would be the smart thing to do.

 

aar0s

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#12

• Apr 3, 2011

• #12

I have my timing at 14 on stock heads with no problems, but i keep non ethanol high octane in it.

If its got all the basic bolt ons and 3.08 that thing would be a fun cruiser. drive it and enjoy your mid 20 mpg's on the highway.

 

Black1987

my wife Bedazzled my input shaft

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#13

• Apr 5, 2011

• #13

You could do the 70mm maf junkyard swap off a CrownVictoria or later V6 Mustang. K&N filter, plugs, and maybe just a simple tune up. Yes, to the 14 on timing .

 

fiveohwblow

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#14

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• #14

Black1987 said:

You could do the 70mm maf junkyard swap off a CrownVictoria or later V6 Mustang. K&N filter, plugs, and maybe just a simple tune up. Yes, to the 14 on timing .

Click to expand...

Skipthread much?

 

GroverDill

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#15

• Apr 5, 2011

• #15

Going to push the timing to 14 or 15*

What about fuel pressure? I have read a ton of different setting from a low of 34 to a high of 48!

Anyone have input on the fuel pressure? I have the stock 19#s and I do not want to replace with 24#s

 

FastDriver

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Apr 6, 2011

#16

• Apr 6, 2011

• #16

Everything I've read says not to play with the fuel pressure unless you're doing it to compensate for the injector size. Dropping FP will result in the computer making changes to compensate and unless you go so lean that it cannot compensate (I think it's ~12.5% in either direction), it's not going to result in a long-term difference.

I was running roughly 320 rwhp, and I found that bumping my fuel pressure to 55psi made the car run right. Either the MAF wasn't calibrated correctly, or the injectors just couldn't handle that much power. The computer did what it could to adjust the tables, and at partial throttle under load the car ran great. At idle it was a bit rich, and at WOT is was almost spot on. Bottom line, don't bump the pressure unless you're doing it to compensate where the computer can't. Also, make sure that the fuel pump is up to par. Raising fuel pressure will reduce the volume that the fuel pump can push. You didn't list a fuel pump in the mods, but I'm guessing it has one. The stock pump is only something like 85-90LPH if memory serves. I would highly suggest not raising fuel pressure against it. A GSS340 can take handle higher pressures no problem, though.