Any clever ideas?

[CornerCarvin67]

Okay... last year I removed my entire hvac system. I then simply took the hose that went from the water pump to the firewall and cut it shorter... then looped it right to the fitting on top of the intake manifold. Simple and effective.

Well now I have a need for that location on the manifold. I'm installing my SPAL fan and need to utilize that pipe tap for the sensor that came with the kit. There are NO other locations on my manifold (old Holley Dominator) for this tap. And that location I want is ideal. I can pull that fitting and hose... no problem. Where I'd like tips or suggestions is at the water pump location. I'm guessing the water pump is factory... and works just fine. Any ideas on plugging that tube opening? One I heard was to put a comparable sized bolt fitted to the I.D. of the hose after I cut it shorter and hose clamp it. I'm thinking this SHOULD work... any ideas? Or something "cleaner" looking? I'm not interested in buying a new water pump either.

Thanks!!

 

[a.vannoy]

I gather you are talking about the heater hose, just run it back into the other fitting on the water pump or get a thermostat cover with a outlet and tie it off there.

 

[66HertzClone]

You can find caps for those ports on the Help rack in most part stores.

 

[mustangman70]

Maybe a T fitting

 

[1320stang]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4554830979&rd=1

What do you have in the other three locations? I think you'd want it somewhere where there is flow across it. Behind the thermostat seems the best place to me. Is your manifold different than the one I posted in that Ebay ad?

 

[69Mach351]

i just got put one of those thick black rubber nipples over it and hose clamped it

 

[D.Hearne]

When did Ford install High Volume Air Conditioners in cars? Just use a "T" in the intake like mustangman70 said. That's what I've done lots of times, always worked. You can get brass or stainless fittings in lots of hardware stores locally for this purpose.

 

[latamud]

i just got put one of those thick black rubber nipples over it and hose clamped it

I did the same. Plug the other end of the hose, or use a rubber plug. They are usually hanging on the shelf next to heater hose clamps and thermstats, maybe near pvc valves.

 

[blk 02]

why not just get a pipe plus to fill the hole, much cleaner.
Graham

 

[CornerCarvin67]

Yeah, it's close to that.... but it only has the one tap behind the neck that houses the thermostat. I'm trying to remember what all comes out of my waterpump to do some kind of re-routing. Like I mentioned before... the hose came out of the pump previously and went to the firewall... then out of the firewall and to the manifold. So I don't think I have any extra ports on the water pump to loop it too. I think plugging it is the best option. Because the size of the tap into the manifold is rather large and the needed "T" would be a massive piece. Plus the sensor may not fix properly into the "T" because it may not have the needed depth. The sensor I got with the kit exceeds the depth of the threads... if you can picture that. I don't believe plugging that water pump port will harm anything. It's just doing it in a nicely looking way..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4554830979&rd=1

What do you have in the other three locations? I think you'd want it somewhere where there is flow across it. Behind the thermostat seems the best place to me. Is your manifold different than the one I posted in that Ebay ad?

 

[blk 02]

off the top of my head its either 1/2npt or 3/4npt and is available at just about and auto parts store

 

[Pakrat]

Whenever you eliminate your heater core from the equasion you are essentially just creating a second bypass so if you can't run it to the manifold anymore or put a T on the manifold then you are right, one option is to simply cap it off. The only other option would be I guess to fit a tee into the actual bypass hose and then just run it off into that.

 

[D.Hearne]

I've run a second bypass like that before and nothing bad happened. And that sensor will work fine in a "T". That's how I have the T-stat switch (Painless Wiring) run for the electric fans on my 89 Ranger's V8. The thread size for that fitting is either 3/8 NPT or 1/2 NPT.

 

[CornerCarvin67]

Thanks guys.

 

[jeffnoel]

Here's pic of my setup. Bypass hose still running to the thermostat housing and the other capped with a clamp.

 

[CornerCarvin67]

Exactly.