any guides on removing A/C??

Foxfan88 · Jun 16, 2005

My ac is broken, it has been since i bought the car, i just sweat, doesnt bother me, i've got by without it pretty good.

So do i just remove it from the bracket and pull the hoses and stuff?
Then buy a new belt??

How bout a guide for removing the smog pump??
Just unbolt it??

5.0 con-vert · Jun 17, 2005

You've picked a good project. Basically, for the A/C you just unbolt the compressor and disconnect the lines...which usually means cutting them back by the firewall. I usually test the lines to see if there is pressure in them before I cut anything, becuase I don't prefer to breathe in the refrigerant.

As for the smog pump, same thing, unbolt the pump, follow the lines back and disconnect them. There is a tube that runs across from one head to the other that you need to unbolt. Make sure to plug up the holes in the back of the head so you don't leak air. If you have the factory H-pipe than there will also be an air tube that runs from the hoses on the passenger side that were connected to the smog pump to the H-pipe down by the crossmember. You will need to close off this gap as well. If you don't have one, and since I don't think you need to pass emissions, pick up an O/R H-pipe. You will enjoy that! That is the basics of it, but I'm sure there is more that someone can add. Have fun!

PuterAmI · Jun 17, 2005

5.0 con-vert said:
which usually means cutting them back by the firewall.

If you have Fuel Line Disconnect tools, use them instead of cutting the lines. Store the stuff incase you ever want to put it back on (think resale value), or sell it. Lots of folks need the stuff.

5.0 con-vert · Jun 17, 2005

PuterAmI said:
If you have Fuel Line Disconnect tools, use them instead of cutting the lines. Store the stuff incase you ever want to put it back on (think resale value), or sell it. Lots of folks need the stuff.

Good call!

millhouse · Jun 17, 2005

If you remove just the smog pump, you can run a short bypass belt and keep the routing the same. If you remove the a/c, the angle of the belt will cause the tensioner to push it against the water pump pulley on the opposite side. In other words, it will rub. Your best bet would be to get a fms a/c delete kit. It relocates the power steering pump to the area which the a/c compressor used to be…keeping the belt geometry closer to normal.

Deleted member 87397 · Jun 17, 2005

yeah, what millhouse said.

srothfuss · Jun 17, 2005

If he deletes his smog will the 'CEL' come on? Or is that only after you unplug the EGR..?

5.0 con-vert · Jun 17, 2005

Mine didn't. I actually didn't notice any difference in how it ran either. I don't think you need the EGR anymore but you do need a b-off plate for the valve.

Foxfan88 · Jun 17, 2005

SO can i just get that P/S relocating kit and then just bypass the smog pump and not have to plug holes?

I have the factory midpipe, but the cats are cut out and its filled in with pipe.
Would i get and worthwhile gains by actaully switching to aftermarket H pipe??

Foxfan88 · Jun 17, 2005

If i buy a new shorter belt, it wont rub on the water pump???

It will rub only if i retain the stock belt, letting the tensioner fill in the slack??

About how much HP is a smog/ac removal good for???

millhouse · Jun 17, 2005

If you already have the cats removed, the smog pump has no purpose. You wont really be gaining any h/p, as both the smog pump and a/c condensor free-wheel when not in use. The gains you get is from weight savings...plus the added bonus of a less cluttered engine bay.

Also, if you remove the smog pump, you will have to plug the holes on the back of the heads. An easy way to do it is to cut the pipes off of the caps on the back of the heads...flip them over and bolt them back on. Once you get them off, you will see the reason you can do this.

Onto the belt question...if you do not get the a/c relocation kit, the new belt you buy will hit the water pump pulley (due to the belt tensioner). If you remove only the smog pump, you can get away with just a shorter belt.

Mynnx · Jun 26, 2005

I just learned about the new belt hitting the waterpump pulley the hard way before reading this...They (AAP) thought it would work if they gave me a 1986 belt for the 5.0 without AC - it didn't. Why does the belt routing sticker show that it's possible?

millhouse · Jun 26, 2005

Mynnx said:
I just learned about the new belt hitting the waterpump pulley the hard way before reading this...They (AAP) thought it would work if they gave me a 1986 belt for the 5.0 without AC - it didn't. Why does the belt routing sticker show that it's possible?

Probably because the 5.0's with the factory a/c delete have the powersteering pump relocated to the a/c location.

squeeeg · Jun 27, 2005

PuterAmI said:
If you have Fuel Line Disconnect tools, use them instead of cutting the lines. Store the stuff incase you ever want to put it back on (think resale value), or sell it. Lots of folks need the stuff.

I agree it is a good call. The disconnect tools are really cheap and easy to use. I just undid them myself the other day it is fairly easy to do. They are worth saving, and it is probably easier to remove it the right way.

The Shape · Jun 27, 2005

I know the one with the canister is worth saving, I just paid 120 bucks for a new one last year. I once upon a time wanted to delete my A/C but it get sway to hot here for that.

PuterAmI · Jun 28, 2005

The Shape said:
I know the one with the canister is worth saving, .

Well, if a person knows what he is buying, no one would ever buy nor use a used accumulator. The desiccant is saturated and does not do the job it should. Best to buy new when re-installing A/C, unless it is only being put on for show.

89CopCoupe · Jun 28, 2005

Buy the Ford a/c kit ... better than the other kits out there.
The only other thing is the belt:

A 6 groove, 84.5" belt is what is called for (5060845)

I had to get a little longer belt (5060849) from NAPA, because the called for length was too short and I busted the heck outta my knuckles trying to slip it on for half an hour

The Shape · Jun 28, 2005

PuterAmI said:
Well, if a person knows what he is buying, no one would ever buy nor use a used accumulator. The desiccant is saturated and does not do the job it should. Best to buy new when re-installing A/C, unless it is only being put on for show.

You are exactly right. I didn't even think of that, all I was thinking was damn that thing cost me 120 bucks don't throw one out.

PuterAmI · Jun 28, 2005

The Shape said:
that thing cost me 120 bucks

Was that price from Ford?

Here they are less than $60 for my convertible.

http://www.acsource.net/xcart/home.php?cat=4503

Curse · Jun 28, 2005

The Shape said:
You are exactly right. I didn't even think of that, all I was thinking was damn that thing cost me 120 bucks don't throw one out.

Wow $120, I would have sold you my used one for $119.99

any guides on removing A/C??

Foxfan88

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