Any ideas before i shoot my stang!!

[Cheyeter]

well were to start.. I was having problem w/ car lacking power and when my car got up to running temp. it would not start or run right, well i startes diagnostic and ended up changing out a fare amount of parts. Now it will turn over and start up and then just die (rev up to around 800-1000 rpm and cut off). I have hooked up a code scanner but i get no codes (koeo, or C)

New fuel filter Checked pressure @ rail 40 psi w/ vac conn.
New (TFi) ignition module
New Distributor cap and rotor
new plugs gapped @ .052
New Plug wires
New Coil
New Air idle Control
New PVC valve
Checked and replaced worn Vac. lines
Tested ECT sensor Ohm'ed good and pwr @ 4.7 v
MAF has correct Voltage, and the sensor ohm'ed good, (have not yet back probed engine isnt running)
IAT sensor Ohm'ed good along with correct voltage
EGR voltage is correct (DPFE Sensor), and working. holds vac.
AIR pump works
I have not Checked the Charcoil cannister!!
PIP Sensor?? going to backprobe to ignition module but getting spark

Any ideas, input would be helpful, and thankful. Open to any ideas. please help!
Is there anyother ways to check stuff, (e.g., PIP sensor(halls), MAF)

Thanks, Joshua

 

[The Green GT]

Check the injector pulsing.

My bet is the PIP.

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

What are your mods? If you have stock heads and cam, your fuel pressure is way too high, I have H/C/I and mine only wants 39psi. Give us a mods list so we can determine things a bit easier.

 

[urban96]

should be 40psi with vac disconnected

 

[HISSIN50]

It seems to me that a bad MAF can cause this. Haven't guys had the inlet tube pop off and the car would stall? I think Guero and maybe Keith had that happen. If the sensor took a dump, that is a similar situation. You should see about 1 MAF signal volt at idle.

I'd check this if Eric's test for injector pulsing is ok. Also make sure your TPS signal return isnt above ~3.7 volts (this shuts off injectors).

Good luck.

 

[Cheyeter]

injectors are clicking, voltage is good

 

[Cheyeter]

mods - Cold air intake, MSD digital 6+ igintion, MSD HVC coil, MSD distributer, BBk pulleys, Centerforce clutch, BBk shorty headers, x pipe, flowmaster 30 series, 3.73's, eibach drag lauch spings, pro 5.0 shifter.

also forgot to mention its a 94 gt vert.

 

[rj95svt]

Fuel pressure is to high. It should only be around 32 with vacumm and 39 40 without vacumm. It might not be the problem but it sure won't help.

 

[Cheyeter]

she wont even idle, starts up(revs up and then shut off), will i still get 3.7 v on the TPS return w/ out idle??

 

[Cheyeter]

I checked the fuel pressure from just turning the motor over, would that be enough to create a vacuum??

 

[Guero]

Can you keep it alive by giving it gas and letting go and so on?? And Hissin is right my Intake disconnceted from the T/B and the car would just turn on and shut of...

 

[Cheyeter]

just wanted say thank you, to all thats posted so far...

 

[Cheyeter]

Yeah i can keep her alive by playing with the throttle, is rough but she stays running. I took the cold air intake apart yesterday, to clean the MAF then put it back together. its all tight, and put together.

 

[Guero]

Any Codes??

 

[rj95svt]

You can check the tps return with the key on engine off. As for the fuel pressure if you only have 40lbs. at the rail after turning the key on before trying to crank the car your OK. I don't know if it will create enough vacumm with the engine just turning over to affect the fuel pressure.

 

[rj95svt]

Have you still got the stock throttle body, has any of the settings been messed with? When did you start having the problem? Does it seem to run fine other than the fact it won't idle?

 

[Cheyeter]

TPS is reading 4.85 v @ the conn. and the sensor is ohm'ing at 3.35 w/ the conn off. Should i back probe w/ the connector on??

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

It will effect the pressure, not a lot. My car stock would not run at all with 40lbs vaccuume on. At 32 - 33lbs it ran fine. Vaccuume off it should be right about 39-40 psi. However I do not think this is the problem anymore, if it will stay started when you play with the gas it sounds more electrical. What voltage is the TPS putting out? Check your MAF as well, if you know someone who has a stocker, try switching it out to determine if it's the problem. I believe there is another way to test the MAF with voltage, but I do not know how.

You can check the tps return with the key on engine off. As for the fuel pressure if you only have 40lbs. at the rail after turning the key on before trying to crank the car your OK. I don't know if it will create enough vacumm with the engine just turning over to affect the fuel pressure.

 

[Cheyeter]

Yeah the t/b is stock, no settings have been changed other then the Idle air control has been changed out. I started having problem about 2 weeks ago, with the car lacking power and it not wonting to start when it got hot. ( engine would rotate but not start). then i changed out the parts from my first post and not it wont idle.

No, it doesnt seem fine its sounds really rough, i have to pretty much go WOT to get the car to stay running and it as a lot of hesitation when i floor it.

 

[rj95svt]

I believe you might have been probing the wrong wire if you got 4.85V. Problem is I don't remember which wire you need to check. One of the wires should have around 1 volt .9x or 1.0x. Ideally around .98. That same wire with the throttle wide open should be around 4.85 V.