Any ideas before i shoot my stang!!
- Thread starter Cheyeter
- Start date
rj95svt
Member
Have you tried unplugging the MAF to see if it will run with the maf unplugged? Double check the firing order and make sure you haven't crossed a plug wire. If it would idle and run before but was down on power it sounds like a plug wire is crossed or something changed when you started changing out parts. I've done it before and I've been messing with cars for a long time. It's a easy mistake to make.
Hi guys,
I didn't check the entire thread but this happened to me - come to find out my intake bolts were LOOSE! I could hand loosen at least 2 of them!
This also happen to me on my 90 when it had.. 56k miles I think.. The upper intake was gummed up! Dealer cleaned it out.
I didn't check the entire thread but this happened to me - come to find out my intake bolts were LOOSE! I could hand loosen at least 2 of them!
This also happen to me on my 90 when it had.. 56k miles I think.. The upper intake was gummed up! Dealer cleaned it out.
GTA_V6_Mustang
Active Member
I did notice a little bit of gumming inside the upper and lower intake, did think it was to much to worry about.
Is this common??
Fix?? bead blast new freeze plugs or chemicals?
ECT - i tested it @ 55 degree - 49,700 ohm's and @ 200 degree - 3259 ohm's
IAT - 18.4k @ 88 degrees and has 4.87v on th pwr supply
I am in Little Rock, Ar. Thx GTA_V6_MUSTANG
Is this common??
Fix?? bead blast new freeze plugs or chemicals?
ECT - i tested it @ 55 degree - 49,700 ohm's and @ 200 degree - 3259 ohm's
IAT - 18.4k @ 88 degrees and has 4.87v on th pwr supply
I am in Little Rock, Ar. Thx GTA_V6_MUSTANG
Have you just babied it while its warming up (just let it idle, stabbing the throttle a bit) to see if it A) gets better when it warms up. And B) allows the adaptive control a chance to try and adapt to whatever is going on? Then check for codes again.
Do you ever hang out with David (5 Spd GT)? Him and a circle of guys are always working on someone's car. He's outside LR by a half hour or so, IIRC.
Do you ever hang out with David (5 Spd GT)? Him and a circle of guys are always working on someone's car. He's outside LR by a half hour or so, IIRC.
Methodical
15 Year Member
A stab in the dark. Do you have one of those reusable air filter and maybe just reoiled it. Maybe put too much oil on it and some got on the MAF heater wire 
. Happened to me once and the car would buck and had no power but she did run though.
. Happened to me once and the car would buck and had no power but she did run though.
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter 
I would try to hold the throttle down for at least 2 minutes. That should give it time to go from open loop to closed loop. If the car idles fine after the 2 minutes, I would guess you have a problem with the MAF/ECT/IAT. Have you cleaned the maf/IAT sensors?
Did you wire the dizzy clockwise or counterclockwise in the 13726548 order?
If you can get it to idle, see if you can perform a cylinder balance test. That may help narrow the problem down.
Scott
Did you wire the dizzy clockwise or counterclockwise in the 13726548 order?
If you can get it to idle, see if you can perform a cylinder balance test. That may help narrow the problem down.
Scott
I will keep it running this morning till it warms up, and re check for codes, i just moved to Little Rock, so i dont know david. It is wired counterclock wise on the dizzy. I did just re oil my k&n, but i didnt think i put to much oil , i will pull it off and re check and re clean the MAF.
Is there another firing order for a 5.0 ho? is there a check i can do to determine the firing order for my motor?? if so how?
Is there a check i could do to determine if the fuel injectors are spraying not just driping or so??
Also the (PIP) profile ignition pick-up, what are some of the checks; and faults??
Is there another firing order for a 5.0 ho? is there a check i can do to determine the firing order for my motor?? if so how?
Is there a check i could do to determine if the fuel injectors are spraying not just driping or so??
Also the (PIP) profile ignition pick-up, what are some of the checks; and faults??
Ok...thanks to all of yalls suggestions, I play with the throttle till it got hot, still wouldn't idle so i went back threw all of the suggestions. came down to when i disconnected the MAF it would idle. So i start more testes on the MAF, re checked the voltage at the plug. (good) ohm'ed the sig and ground on the sensor(good)
backprobed the signal and ground @ ldle( playing with the throttle) .652 v and @ 3000 rpm 1.76v. From what i read is seams good.?? Any other suggestions??
backprobed the signal and ground @ ldle( playing with the throttle) .652 v and @ 3000 rpm 1.76v. From what i read is seams good.?? Any other suggestions??
gcomfx.com
Founding Member
rj95svt
Member
I don't think I would drive it that way. I think I would buy it at a auto parts store that way if it isn't the problem you can get your money back on it. The stock mass air isn't restrictive until you have h/c/i.
Do clean the MAF wires if you havent. If they're dirty, their reading is off (a change of less than a 10th of a volt changes how the car idles). It takes all of two minutes. YOu do need a tamperproof torx bit however.
If you can get the car to run while pulling codes, you can run the cylinder balance test that Scott mentioned. This will let you know which cylinders are not contributing (and if a cylinder passes, you can feel good that the injector for that cylinder is good).
It sure sounds like a MAF issue if it runs better with it disconnected. If you can't wait for a used one to arrive (they go pretty cheap, but are a risk since you dont know what was done to the sensor), new would work. They're $$ though.
If you can get the car to run while pulling codes, you can run the cylinder balance test that Scott mentioned. This will let you know which cylinders are not contributing (and if a cylinder passes, you can feel good that the injector for that cylinder is good).
It sure sounds like a MAF issue if it runs better with it disconnected. If you can't wait for a used one to arrive (they go pretty cheap, but are a risk since you dont know what was done to the sensor), new would work. They're $$ though.
You bet. A bad sensor can be providing incorrect info, which throws every other sensor into a frenzy because nothing is matching up (the MAF being a primary and critical sensor, it's 'trusted' by the rest of the loop and the computer).
When you disconnect it, the car goes into FMEM, a safe default programming where it can omit some sensory input (kind of a 'limp home' type of mode).
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