Any ideas before i shoot my stang!!

C

Cheyeter

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Jul 31, 2007

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Little Rock, Ar.

Aug 20, 2007

#21

• Aug 20, 2007

• #21

Just re-checked for codes and still none, pulled the IAT pwr supply re ran test and it found code 113... just testing the tester...

 

rj95svt

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Jan 11, 2007

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Hayden, AL

Aug 20, 2007

#22

• Aug 20, 2007

• #22

Have you tried unplugging the MAF to see if it will run with the maf unplugged? Double check the firing order and make sure you haven't crossed a plug wire. If it would idle and run before but was down on power it sounds like a plug wire is crossed or something changed when you started changing out parts. I've done it before and I've been messing with cars for a long time. It's a easy mistake to make.

 

C

Cheyeter

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Jul 31, 2007

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Little Rock, Ar.

Aug 20, 2007

#23

• Aug 20, 2007

• #23

I backprobed the TPS 1.061, 1.062 @ CT, and 4.66 WOT

 

C

Cheyeter

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Jul 31, 2007

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Little Rock, Ar.

Aug 20, 2007

#24

• Aug 20, 2007

• #24

unpluged the MAF it would start, just turn over and over

 

C

Cheyeter

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Jul 31, 2007

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Little Rock, Ar.

Aug 20, 2007

#25

• Aug 20, 2007

• #25

rechecked the plug wires and number are going to the right cylinder, firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, looking at motor left side 1-2-3-4 front to back, and right side 5-6-7-8 front to back

 

Pokageek

Active Member

Jun 10, 2005

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MA, USA

Aug 20, 2007

#26

• Aug 20, 2007

• #26

Hi guys,

I didn't check the entire thread but this happened to me - come to find out my intake bolts were LOOSE! I could hand loosen at least 2 of them!

This also happen to me on my 90 when it had.. 56k miles I think.. The upper intake was gummed up! Dealer cleaned it out.

 

Guero

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Oct 11, 2005

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Aug 20, 2007

#27

• Aug 20, 2007

• #27

ECT sensor???IAT Sensor???

 

GTA_V6_Mustang

Active Member

Nov 29, 2004

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Miami, FL

Aug 20, 2007

#28

• Aug 20, 2007

• #28

Cheyeter where are you located? If your local here in my area maybe I could help you out.

 

C

Cheyeter

New Member

Jul 31, 2007

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Little Rock, Ar.

Aug 20, 2007

#29

• Aug 20, 2007

• #29

I did notice a little bit of gumming inside the upper and lower intake, did think it was to much to worry about.
Is this common??
Fix?? bead blast new freeze plugs or chemicals?

ECT - i tested it @ 55 degree - 49,700 ohm's and @ 200 degree - 3259 ohm's

IAT - 18.4k @ 88 degrees and has 4.87v on th pwr supply

I am in Little Rock, Ar. Thx GTA_V6_MUSTANG

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 20, 2007

#30

• Aug 20, 2007

• #30

Have you just babied it while its warming up (just let it idle, stabbing the throttle a bit) to see if it A) gets better when it warms up. And B) allows the adaptive control a chance to try and adapt to whatever is going on? Then check for codes again.

Do you ever hang out with David (5 Spd GT)? Him and a circle of guys are always working on someone's car. He's outside LR by a half hour or so, IIRC.

 

Methodical

15 Year Member

Dec 1, 2003

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Clinton, MD

Aug 20, 2007

#31

• Aug 20, 2007

• #31

A stab in the dark. Do you have one of those reusable air filter and maybe just reoiled it. Maybe put too much oil on it and some got on the MAF heater wire . Happened to me once and the car would buck and had no power but she did run though.

 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter

Aug 26, 2003

3,031

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Tucson, AZ

Aug 20, 2007

#32

• Aug 20, 2007

• #32

I would try to hold the throttle down for at least 2 minutes. That should give it time to go from open loop to closed loop. If the car idles fine after the 2 minutes, I would guess you have a problem with the MAF/ECT/IAT. Have you cleaned the maf/IAT sensors?

Did you wire the dizzy clockwise or counterclockwise in the 13726548 order?

If you can get it to idle, see if you can perform a cylinder balance test. That may help narrow the problem down.
Scott

 

C

Cheyeter

New Member

Jul 31, 2007

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Little Rock, Ar.

Aug 21, 2007

#33

• Aug 21, 2007

• #33

I will keep it running this morning till it warms up, and re check for codes, i just moved to Little Rock, so i dont know david. It is wired counterclock wise on the dizzy. I did just re oil my k&n, but i didnt think i put to much oil , i will pull it off and re check and re clean the MAF.

Is there another firing order for a 5.0 ho? is there a check i can do to determine the firing order for my motor?? if so how?

Is there a check i could do to determine if the fuel injectors are spraying not just driping or so??

Also the (PIP) profile ignition pick-up, what are some of the checks; and faults??

 

C

Cheyeter

New Member

Jul 31, 2007

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Little Rock, Ar.

Aug 21, 2007

#34

• Aug 21, 2007

• #34

Ok...thanks to all of yalls suggestions, I play with the throttle till it got hot, still wouldn't idle so i went back threw all of the suggestions. came down to when i disconnected the MAF it would idle. So i start more testes on the MAF, re checked the voltage at the plug. (good) ohm'ed the sig and ground on the sensor(good)
backprobed the signal and ground @ ldle( playing with the throttle) .652 v and @ 3000 rpm 1.76v. From what i read is seams good.?? Any other suggestions??

 

gcomfx.com

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Oct 22, 2002

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Republic, MO

Aug 21, 2007

#35

• Aug 21, 2007

• #35

You ever make it up to SW MO? If so you can try my stock M/A meter if you like.

 

C

Cheyeter

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Jul 31, 2007

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Little Rock, Ar.

Aug 21, 2007

#36

• Aug 21, 2007

• #36

I dont think i have ever been to Mo, but thank you. Do you think it would be OK to drive her w/o the MAF? Since it looks like i am going to have to replace the MAF. Do yall think i should get a stock one from a aoto parts store or get a lager MAF?

 

rj95svt

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Jan 11, 2007

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Hayden, AL

Aug 21, 2007

#37

• Aug 21, 2007

• #37

I don't think I would drive it that way. I think I would buy it at a auto parts store that way if it isn't the problem you can get your money back on it. The stock mass air isn't restrictive until you have h/c/i.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Aug 21, 2007

#38

• Aug 21, 2007

• #38

Do clean the MAF wires if you havent. If they're dirty, their reading is off (a change of less than a 10th of a volt changes how the car idles). It takes all of two minutes. YOu do need a tamperproof torx bit however.

If you can get the car to run while pulling codes, you can run the cylinder balance test that Scott mentioned. This will let you know which cylinders are not contributing (and if a cylinder passes, you can feel good that the injector for that cylinder is good).


It sure sounds like a MAF issue if it runs better with it disconnected. If you can't wait for a used one to arrive (they go pretty cheap, but are a risk since you dont know what was done to the sensor), new would work. They're $$ though.

 

C

Cheyeter

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Jul 31, 2007

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Little Rock, Ar.

Aug 21, 2007

#39

• Aug 21, 2007

• #39

would a bad MAF sensor cause it not to idle and run rough?

why would it idle and run with it disconnected?

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Aug 21, 2007

#40

• Aug 21, 2007

• #40

Cheyeter said:

would a bad MAF sensor cause it not to idle and run rough?

why would it idle and run with it disconnected?

Click to expand...

You bet. A bad sensor can be providing incorrect info, which throws every other sensor into a frenzy because nothing is matching up (the MAF being a primary and critical sensor, it's 'trusted' by the rest of the loop and the computer).

When you disconnect it, the car goes into FMEM, a safe default programming where it can omit some sensory input (kind of a 'limp home' type of mode).