Any way to race prep a factory 5.0 block?

Dayzed50 · Aug 27, 2006

I've noticed on some high performance engine sites (DSS, ect)that they are building 5.0's with factory blocks that are capable of 650hp. I currently have a 5.0 roller block with over 180k mi that is clean and true at factory bore (I didn't believe it at first either). I have a balanced assembly including ross low comp forged pistons, eagle rods, and a chamfered and nitrided crank. Is there a way to prep this block for more hp capabilities? I have canfield alum. heads on the way along with a tfs r intake to compliment my ati p1sc, so I expect to have roughly 600 flywheel hp. I have a main girdle for added strength but an aftermarket block is a ways away. Btw, I split my last block (factory internals) behind the timing cover and front main cap, not pretty.

BlownFiveLiter · Aug 27, 2006

600 flywheel HP? Start saving for that aftermarket block now. All the girdle is going to do is hold it together until you're able to pull your internals, honestly.

EMW150 · Aug 27, 2006

I agree. It's kinda like launching a car on stock axles. Some people get real lucky and others not so lucky. The best thing you can do for longevity is to make sure all clearances and balaning are as good as you can get and hope for the best. I also think main girdles help but they can only do so much. They might boost the block's tolerance 50 hp or so. 650 hp with a stock block is nothing more than a dream.

6SpeedLX · Aug 27, 2006

the only thing you can do for a stock block would be to put it through a cryogenic process...basically you put the block into extreme cold, then extreme heat. all of this is done over a period of time. i guess it makes everything more dense and can strengthen metal about 200% i havent done much research on this, just heard about it the other day actually...i guess they use this process in all Nascar engines

spiff · Aug 27, 2006

6SpeedLX said:
the only thing you can do for a stock block would be to put it through a cryogenic process...basically you put the block into extreme cold, then extreme heat. all of this is done over a period of time. i guess it makes everything more dense and can strengthen metal about 200% i havent done much research on this, just heard about it the other day actually...i guess they use this process in all Nascar engines

Interesting.

Well hopefully you find something to handle that kickass combo.

R2D2 · Aug 27, 2006

marketing gimmicks and DSS is great at them. All your gonna do is remove casting flash and high spots to eliminate stress risers and convert to a screw in expansion plug. Nothing more!

Dayzed50 · Aug 29, 2006

Well, you guys basically confirmed what I already suspected, stock 5.0 no go. Hopefully it'll hold together 'till I can get a man 'o war block. On the bright side, catastrophic failures aren't so bad when you expect them.

Rick 91GT · Aug 29, 2006

the above info is 110% correct, cyro treating a stock block is something I would like to try just to see what it does. I looked into this at one time and shipping charges alone can be expensive, and if my memory is correct it was around $400 to do it.

88Stang331 · Aug 29, 2006

So basically when it all comes down to it, is a stock block, no matter what you do to it, is still a stock block.

TheUser · Aug 29, 2006

88stang: Yes, technically, it's still a stock block if you do the cryo to it, but it's a specially treated stock block. How much strength, if any, the cryo process adds would be determined when someone actually does it. I've not read of any experiences w/ someone cryogenically treating a block. Even still, some stock blocks last to 400 hp and some last to 600hp, so it might be difficult to get a solid unbiased study on that. That's a lot of money to throw at something that "might" help and you really can't even measure how much it will.

mackey · Aug 29, 2006

You could start filling the water pockets with Hardblock... I don't know how much more strength it will give you as in a horsepower number, but if you want to strengthen the stock block it is basically the only way to go.

R2D2 · Aug 29, 2006

mackey said:
You could start filling the water pockets with Hardblock... I don't know how much more strength it will give you as in a horsepower number, but if you want to strengthen the stock block it is basically the only way to go.

ya fill it to the bottom of the pump holes and do it before you bore and hone.

Don Fiveolio · Aug 29, 2006

I saw an episode of horsepower tv where they took a stock 5.0 block and added stiffening girdles to the top of it. You have to drill a few holes, but according to the manufactuer, the stock block survived 9000 rpm. I have it on my server somewhere......

R2D2 · Aug 29, 2006

Don Fiveolio said:
I saw an episode of horsepower tv where they took a stock 5.0 block and added stiffening girdles to the top of it. You have to drill a few holes, but according to the manufactuer, the stock block survived 9000 rpm. I have it on my server somewhere......

yes totally useless, another gimmick aimed at noobs

Don Fiveolio · Aug 29, 2006

sbftech said:
yes totally useless, another gimmick aimed at noobs

so, you've tried this before? How do you know that it does not work? I ask because I was seriously considering this once I got into power adding. Please elaborate.

R2D2 · Aug 29, 2006

Don Fiveolio said:
so, you've tried this before? How do you know that it does not work? I ask because I was seriously considering this once I got into power adding. Please elaborate.

Have I ever used this gimmick? No, being in the small block ford arena for 20+ years racing I can tell you if this valley girdle was of any use other than taking your money, we would have done it decades ago. Take a long hard look at the hardware used and where the girdle is bolted to. It's totally useless, but by all means purchase it and spin your motor to 7500 since thats well below the 9k as advertised, let me know how it goes and how the mains look.

The fact of the matter is ALL late model roller 5.0 blocks are paper thin. Your best bet is to fill the block to the bottom of the pump holes and help keep the main webbing from splitting under load. Also keeping the rpm down helps tremendously. RPM is more of a killer than anything else when it comes to late model blocks.

Don Fiveolio · Aug 29, 2006

sbftech said:
Have I ever used this gimmick? No, being in the small block ford arena for 20+ years racing I can tell you if this valley girdle was of any use other than taking your money, we would have done it decades ago. Take a long hard look at the hardware used and where the girdle is bolted to. It's totally useless, but by all means purchase it and spin your motor to 7500 since thats well below the 9k as advertised, let me know how it goes and how the mains look.

The fact of the matter is ALL late model roller 5.0 blocks are paper thin. Your best bet is to fill the block to the bottom of the pump holes and help keep the main webbing from splitting under load. Also keeping the rpm down helps tremendously. RPM is more of a killer than anything else when it comes to late model blocks.

funny... but seriously I'll heed your advice. Anyone who has been involved in racing as long as you has to know what he is talking about. But, I have to say, given the layout and placement of the girdle, it looks like it may have a chance.....*pick up phone and dails number to Dart*

R2D2 · Aug 29, 2006

Don Fiveolio said:
funny... but seriously I'll heed your advice. Anyone who has been involved in racing as long as you has to know what he is talking about. But, I have to say, given the layout and placement of the girdle, it looks like it may have a chance.....*pick up phone and dails number to Dart*

Better yet, dont listen to me or anyone that gets paid to advertise this product. Just roam the internet and flip through the various magazines and let me know when you find a high hp small block using one, thats not getting paid to advertise it.

vristang · Aug 29, 2006

It has been a while since I looked at the valley girdles, but from what I remember it is a good idea, poorly executed.
For these stiffeners to be any good they would need to be welded in. Some diagonal bracing would help too.

Just my thoughts,
jason

Dayzed50 · Aug 29, 2006

Here's a shot of the valley girdles I've recently come across. They look to be bolted in, as welding to a cast iron block is discouraged. I think theses are made by Valley Pro Girdles if I remember right. Look like they may be effective.

Any way to race prep a factory 5.0 block?

Dayzed50

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

EMW150

6SpeedLX

New Member

spiff

Member

R2D2

Dayzed50

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

88Stang331

New Member

TheUser

Active Member

mackey

Active Member

R2D2

Don Fiveolio

New Member

R2D2

Don Fiveolio

New Member

R2D2

Don Fiveolio

New Member

R2D2

vristang

Dayzed50

Attachments

Similar threads

Any way to race prep a factory 5.0 block?

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

New Member

Member

R2D2

Mustang Master

New Member

Active Member

Active Member

R2D2

New Member

R2D2

New Member

R2D2

New Member

R2D2

Attachments

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency