Anyone read "Down-Low 5.0" in MM&FF?

I do agree the patriot heads do look attractive but compared to AFRs i think flow numbers will tell why there is the price difference, hate to say it but there aren't that many great bargain parts that u can count on for the long run. You wont regret putting a set of AFRs on your stang, i remember when mine came in i hugged them like a baby lol beautiful craftmanship and the mustang dyno put up the numbers u expect to get after the investment.:nice:

for a 302 i have a couple friends running AFR 165s with great results
 
Spoke with my father again last night. He did the sanity check on this one for me. The "why put money into something that will end up getting sold, so you can build better later?" question came up. Honestly just want to rebuild something before building the Fox's motor. He reminded me that I have a truck in his old chasis shop that might be a better place to learn. Its been sitting there for 14 years, so I kinda forgot about it. So I am looking at doing a "budget build" on the 460 in it. I do want to try Pro-Comp's heads and god kn ows they have to flow better than anything that came factory (excluding the FRPP Cobra Jets). So I am looking at building a 514 out of it. I already found a budget stroker kit and can utilize the intake and carb that we installed on it. So much for building a motor, buying a scrap fox and bracket racing it.
 
There is a deep, dark place in my soul that wants to build an EFI stroked 460 for the '86. I've heard a lot of bad things about 460 builds for high performance applications, but its usually because a well-done one is expensive, so you end up seeing a lot of half-assed, iron headed boat anchors that make less power than a Windsor at the same price.
 
I attempted to sell a 79 mustang DD to my wife. I had it all sold, 460 and all, until she asked the gas mileage..lol. I considered the same swap in the 93. I still have some odds and ends leftover from the trucks swap, but realized that the added weight, driveability and gas mileage probably wouldnt be worth it. I have spoken to a couple of builders now and am concidering the 557 over the 514. I actually found a kit for around 900.00 (KBs hyper pistons with a good crank and H beams). The truck may see the mud, but wouldnt see the abuse most of our mustangs get. If all goes well, I would be happy with around 500 horses. It won't see nitrous or boost, so it should last for a bit. I do agree on the bad rep. We put the 460 in about 15 years ago and the technology or tricks have changed. Most builders I've read or talked with suggest that a stock block shouldnt be pushed passed the 6000Rpm range and that the addition of an external oil line is mandatory to keep the rear of the motor well oiled. Everyone agreed that simply bolting on some good heads would push the current set-up to around the power levels I expect out of the stroker. I need the experience and like the thought of something out of the ordinary in the truck.
 
Chances are, if you build a motor from junk, it will be junk. However, you can build a good motor without spending a whole lot of money if you put it togeather right.

I've seen some guys put togeather some impressive sounding engines but didn't give them impressive results. Such as one guy I know, put togeather a 306 with AFR165's, edelbrock performer intake, 65tb, full exhaust, and TFS1 cam, should run right??? He had a little more top end than my old cars top end but could not beat me in a race and our combo's were similar except I had a stock bottom end with ported E7's and a B cam and longtubes. He swapped to a carbed combo and a different cam, never ran him after that but from what I heard it never ran fast like it should. I gave him every suggestion I could, so did everyone else. Last I heard he was going bigblock.
 
I had a not so fresh experience using Procomps on my not so budget 427W build, however, the end results are pretty good. Issues I encountered were pushrod holes needing to be clearanced and more importantly ($$$) I needed to relocate the rocker stud holes as even with adjustable guideplates the geometry could not be corrected. I am happy with the power the combo currently makes and have put about 1200 relatively trouble free miles on it. Only problems have been with my MSD distributor which aren't related to the Procomps.
 
i thought about a budget build alot for the past year or so, i looked into a lot of heads uncluding the pro comps, the patriot and rhs heads which is made by comp cams. recently edelbrock has come out with heads in the same price range an completely destroy any of those stated above...they flow identical to afr 165s and are around $900 complete, shipped if you shop around. either way i would have to agree with everyone else who said they would rebuild the bottom end, it makes sense to an wont cost to much..in the long run after doin the bottom end an the heads with a nice cam an intake it will still be pretty cheap, an you know everything was done right.

the edelbrocks are called E-Street heads. an awsome head for the money, i dont think you can get any more bang for your buck new, untouched.
 
.. recently edelbrock has come out with heads in the same price range an completely destroy any of those stated above...they flow identical to afr 165s and are around $900 complete, shipped if you shop around.

the edelbrocks are called E-Street heads. an awsome head for the money, i dont think you can get any more bang for your buck new, untouched.

Those heads don't flow as well as the AFR 165's on the exhaust side so you won't get the same HP. The E-Streets' performance is on a par with the Procomp 190's and the GT40X. They're good heads but I'd save $300 more for the Trick Flow heads instead.
 
Thanks for the site Bullit. Didn’t realize that a Mustang would be popular in the UAE. must definitely set you apart from the standard imports and Europeans. I don’t know the scene there, but I know that I've seen some pretty ridiculous uphill sand racing in the Middle East.
 
I just finished a budget rebuild on an old 302 I had sitting in my garage. The motor had 140,000 miles and was running when removed. I took the block to the machine shop and they rehoned the cylinders, replaced the cam bearings,replaced freeze plugs, and turned the crank. I had around $200 bills in machine work. Then replaced the rings, bearings, and oil pump. Reassembled adding my Trick Flow heads,cam, and intake. Had around $ 500 in the rebuild of the shortblock and the car will run for another 100k.
 
Not a bad point. Most of us think past the rebuild and look to build something a bit more. Unfortunately, its normally after we've broke it..lol. How strong does the the motor run?