Anyone running AFR 165's and the RPM2 intake?

my buddy is running the following: This is a copy from his sig, and it seems fairly close to your combo

'89 5.0 'notch, 5-speed, 302 stock short block, shorty's, no cat x-pipe, cat-back, 75mm Pro-M, 70MM T.B., RPM II intake, 24lbs inj., MSD6AL, custom cam (.510,.515,114 lsa),emission AFR165's, 3.8 electric fan, 3G alt., K&N panel, Diablo chip, N2O ready to test....
uncorrected & N\A;12.13@114mph (7.78@90mph)=3\25 Fontana,Ca.

I believe he's doing about 320 at the wheels n/a, and hit's consistent low 12's. the car is wicked.
 
Tom, you brought up a great point:nice: That is apples to oranges for sure. Lots more variables to that power...

2000xp8 said:
Pro m is just under another name now.

The owner is physically different, the meters are not.
The same guy does all the programming and calibrations.
Her'es the company, no need to browse classifieds for used parts.

http://www.massairsystems.com/
Ever see a store in the mall having a going out of business sale? Then you see the same store in a different location, same stuff, same prices, different name? Same idea.

C&L's are a joke, why do you think 90% of cars 11's and quicker never use them, because as you add power they get more innaccurate, this comes from the mouth of a person that has run many cars on a dyno. C&L's work correct in like 1 of 5 cars, and for every person that has their car run right they think everyone gets the same results.

Only thing C&L does right is make the right contributions to the magazines.

Funny, you pay $200 and what do you get? A piece of round metal with a hole in it.

And 69converted, you can take my word for it or not, regardless it's still true, and you would certainly gain over a 73mm.

To counter big daddy's thoughts, I have two friends with C&L meters and they both run perfect as we can tell. One on a TFS h/c/i 94 Gt with all the trimmings and one on a bolt-on 2000 GT (that came off a 02 Gt) and those two also ran well and pull some great times with great drivers.

C&L offers a fine product and you get what you pay for. I have no problems with C&L but I just prefer Pro-M.

A simple reason why "90%" of the 11 second and down cars run Pro-M's is most have a lot more money invested in those cars and get the 'better line'. It's like comparing Accufab to BBK. They both get the job done, just one is made of better quality.

C&L is just fine, no matter what big daddy says. I would love for you to tell me where you got these two facts from him:

90% of all 11 second cars or faster run Pro-M's?
1 out of 5 cars run fine with C&L's?

Lol...
 
Wow, what a firestorm. You'd think that I asked if I should buy a Chevy. I know that everyone has an opinion, but can you all take it somewhere else?

I am not changing my setup. Regardless of whether Pro M is better than C&L. I just want to find out how those "and only those" with the same setup find it to run. Thanks again for the input.
 
68converted just wants to see N/A applications of the RPMII intake and AFR 165 heads.............while Grover's results are excellent his application is a blower car and that changes how you look at what intake to use.
 
5spd GT said:
Tom, you brought up a great point:nice: That is apples to oranges for sure. Lots more variables to that power...



To counter big daddy's thoughts,

C&L offers a fine product and you get what you pay for. I have no problems with C&L but I just prefer Pro-M.

A simple reason why "90%" of the 11 second and down cars run Pro-M's is most have a lot more money invested in those cars and get the 'better line'. It's like comparing Accufab to BBK. They both get the job done, just one is made of better quality.

C&L is just fine, no matter what big daddy says. I would love for you to tell me where you got these two facts from him:

First off, BD does NOT run a dyno.
No he doesn't like C&L, because cars run like crap with them.
But this info is not from him.
Comes from someone that has tuned more mustangs in one day than most tune in a lifetime.

Show me all the 11 second cars with C&L'S.
Just look through signatures good combos don't have them.
You said it yourself, pro m "is a better line" The sampling method C&L uses does not work well all the time.
 
2000xp8 said:
Funny, you pay $200 and what do you get? A piece of round metal with a hole in it.

Childish statement. crapola

I could counter with how much do you pay for your Pro-M? And what is it made of? And surely it has a few holes in it too.

Relax. It's just a different opinion baised on experiences. Not always gonna be the same for everyone.
 
tjm73 said:
Childish statement. crapola

I could counter with how much do you pay for your Pro-M? And what is it made of? And surely it has a few holes in it too.

Relax. It's just a different opinion baised on experiences. Not always gonna be the same for everyone.
What you get with a pro m is a sensor that corresponds to the flow chart that also comes with it. So if necessary to do a chip when ditching the rev limiter you can also have the programmer input the flow numbers.

No sensor with a C&L, but it's still $200 which is 20-50 more than a pro m bullet.
 
Buddy's combo- 302, AFR165's, RPM II, .540 lift custom cam, 75mm t/b, 75mm bullet, longtubes...etc

Car put down 340rwhp and runs extremely well. Shifting around 5,900rpms put him at 12.2 @ 110mph. Pretty impressive if you ask me. I'd go with the RPM II! He said it matched the AFR165 Ports PERFECTLY!! Kinda like they were meant to be mated with the 165's!
 
2000xp8 said:
What you get with a pro m is a sensor that corresponds to the flow chart that also comes with it. So if necessary to do a chip when ditching the rev limiter you can also have the programmer input the flow numbers.

No sensor with a C&L, but it's still $200 which is 20-50 more than a pro m bullet.

Yes some tuners prefer Pro-M over C&L but don't hate on C&L, my car ran fine with it N/A and also blown! I changed to a Pro-m 80mm to mate to my powerpipe and my tuner recommended it with their "personal Larocca tune" calibration. Both Mass Air Meters will get the job done!!

I do have to lay into the fact that I feel Pro-M is also a better meter and is what I would do if you can spare the extra cash. C&L will work fine if you can't tho...
 
Blk91stang said:
Buddy's combo- 302, AFR165's, RPM II, .540 lift custom cam, 75mm t/b, 75mm bullet, longtubes...etc

Car put down 340rwhp and runs extremely well. Shifting around 5,900rpms put him at 12.2 @ 110mph. Pretty impressive if you ask me. I'd go with the RPM II! He said it matched the AFR165 Ports PERFECTLY!! Kinda like they were meant to be mated with the 165's!

The cam makes or brakes any combo but the intake needs to match the needs of the heads and cam. I did a regular Performer lower for GTJake with 165s that put down 330RWHP/348RWTQ STD but it had a FTI custom cam too. For milder off-the-shelf cams (up to ~220° or so), the RPMII is on the high side of optimum for many.
 
Ok, so I will toss a wrench into the mix and say that I will be putting on a 6psi Powerdyne next summer. I plan to switch out the cam at the same time to a blower friendly grind.

I spoke to both AFR and Edelbrock about how the ports match and they both said extremely well. When I put the Fel-Pro gaskets on them, they virtually identical, with the heads having a slightly (100th) larger opening.

The exhaust is collected by Headman shorties into a matching 2 1/2" system with H pipe, Flowmaster 50's and 3" tips (ala Cobra's)
 
Well, it's good that the heads will be slightly larger, because if it was the other way around it could be a mess.
A wrench is right with a powerdyne, use a vortech or paxton.
 
2000xp8 said:
Well, it's good that the heads will be slightly larger, because if it was the other way around it could be a mess.
A wrench is right with a powerdyne, use a vortech or paxton.


Dude, find something better to do with your time. I looked up some of your previous posts and you don't have anything positive to say about anything but what is on you car or what you dream to have on your car. I really don't care what you think, if you do. Try to consider that there are reasons, people do what they do other than "fad" or "cool" or "I say so, so I am right". Take the playground banter to another thread. I am asking for intelligent feedback here. And your verbal diarrhea is just not cutting it. I will try to explain this to you again. I am asking for input from drivers that have a similar setup. You have nothing close to what I have. Quit kicking the horse.:notnice:

The Powerdyne is going to cost me the time it takes to get it off of the car, and some golf lessons. “Free” is a huge reason to do something. I don’t want a loud blower, (i.e. NOVI, Vortech or Paxton). I also don’t want to drag race; just add a LITTLE fun factor. :D
 
68converted said:
The Powerdyne is going to cost me the time it takes to get it off of the car, and some golf lessons. “Free” is a huge reason to do something. I don’t want a loud blower, (i.e. NOVI, Vortech or Paxton). I also don’t want to drag race; just add a LITTLE fun factor. :D

That is what it is about:nice:

I agree with what you said about part loyalty from certain members;)
 
Sorry to be like that. I don't post a great deal, because I prefer to research what I say as often as possible prior to adding my two cents. My 68 vert is my fifth mustang. I am not an expert, but I am not a pleab either. I find that this forum, for the LARGE majority has solid members that truely want to help a fellow stanger out; not simply antagonize. But they add a spice to it as well. I just hope that our members realize that "if you dish it out, you better be able to take it." Thanks for the help all. I think I have the info that I needed.