Anyone seen any dyno number?

san~man · Sep 9, 2006

Well, although I have the money for a KB 2.1, it honestly looks like it isn't going to happen for a number of reasons:

1. For one, I'm only able to get 89 octane gas for my car.

2. Although nothing is totally "safe," going the NA route will probably be more safe than going FI, especially since I use the car for work.

3. NA will cost at least half of what FI would cost me.

4. Installation cost will come out less the NA way versus the FI way (for me at least).

So, after talking with T (big T on the boards here) the other day, he had mentioned to me that he was going to buy some heads and cams. I thought, Hmmm, that's an idea.

Now, although it isn't set in stone, I'm looking at some heads and cams. See, there are only a few people in Hawaii I'd trust enough to mess with my motor, and they all charge a lot. I'm thinking that pre-assembled heads and cams with the springs and lifters all done, ready to install, will be easier (=less $$) than having someone just put in cams (where you have to mess with the valvesprings while the heads are in the car). Anyone agree?

Also, I have the flow to support a larger head (already have a TB/upper and LT's and full exhaust), so I'm thinking that H/C won't be a total waste over just say cams. Anyone agree?

Now, I searched here and a few boards without much luck. Has anyone seen dyno numbers for H/C swaps? I know that mine will be lower due to the octane, but I'm thinking that when I get it tuned I buy a XCal2 and have a higher octane program put in so I can switch (just buy some octane booster).

I'm thinking either VT (if they ever have stock) or MPH.

Now, any dyno numbers you've obtained or read, anyone?

nwapache · Sep 9, 2006

If you stay NA and do heads and cams....here are ballpark #'s for you
Stage 2 heads will get about 45hp
Stage 2 cams will get about 30hp
So, assuming you have a 5 speed, you should net net about 340hp(with your other mods) at the wheels.....
cost wise.....you're looking at 1900-2700 for the head/cam setup, and install yourself or add labor cost.
Yes, it is easier to get heads with cams already installed...its the same thing i'm looking at doing.
Tomustang is a good resource for head swap tips....

jivepepper · Sep 9, 2006

You won't make 340 on heads and cams alone. You'll need every bolton possible and an intake. you can build an sc for 3200 new. There is a guy over at modular depot who lives in HI and has a vortech.

san~man · Sep 9, 2006

jivepepper said:
You won't make 340 on heads and cams alone. You'll need every bolton possible and an intake. you can build an sc for 3200 new. There is a guy over at modular depot who lives in HI and has a vortech.

Yes, I realize that a Mongoose kit will easily net around 350 or so at the wheels, but I need "reliability" over pure power.

Like I said, I know nothing is total foolproof, but an NA setup is less likely to break crap in the motor than an FI one is.

san~man · Sep 9, 2006

nwapache said:
If you stay NA and do heads and cams....here are ballpark #'s for you
Stage 2 heads will get about 45hp
Stage 2 cams will get about 30hp
So, assuming you have a 5 speed, you should net net about 340hp(with your other mods) at the wheels.....
cost wise.....you're looking at 1900-2700 for the head/cam setup, and install yourself or add labor cost.
Yes, it is easier to get heads with cams already installed...its the same thing i'm looking at doing.
Tomustang is a good resource for head swap tips....

No 5 speed, 4R70W. I'd be happy with 300 at the wheels.

Stang|ess · Sep 9, 2006

I'd just get a vortech from MPH.

you WON'T make 340 to the wheels with bolt ons, stage 2 cams, and heads. that will be 300ish give or take depending on various variables such as altitude, temp, and in your case you have an auto.

and with stage 2 cams, it will have a real big lope at idle which is what you're sitting at most of the time right? I'd just suck it up, and pay for the 92. or fill up with 89, and buy octane booster to bring it up.

you'll have tims tune, and you'll only have to put her on the dyno to check the a/f ratio. HPM (www.hawaiiperformancemustangs.com) is having a dyno day this coming december at BSM. $50 I think for 2 pulls, but it might be extra for the a/f ratio.

power/$ says go with a blower! then sell me your intake .

I still have to call naka and henry about getting cams and valvesprings installed. if you're insistant on staying na, ill see if they can give a discount. my friend is good friends with brody at BSM and he's gonna instroduce me soon hopefully, so maybe he can give us a break on labor.

san~man · Sep 9, 2006

Stang|ess said:
I'd just get a vortech from MPH.

you WON'T make 340 to the wheels with bolt ons, stage 2 cams, and heads. that will be 300ish give or take depending on various variables such as altitude, temp, and in your case you have an auto.

and with stage 2 cams, it will have a real big lope at idle which is what you're sitting at most of the time right? I'd just suck it up, and pay for the 92. or fill up with 89, and buy octane booster to bring it up.

you'll have tims tune, and you'll only have to put her on the dyno to check the a/f ratio. HPM (www.hawaiiperformancemustangs.com) is having a dyno day this coming december at BSM. $50 I think for 2 pulls, but it might be extra for the a/f ratio.

power/$ says go with a blower! then sell me your intake .

I still have to call naka and henry about getting cams and valvesprings installed. if you're insistant on staying na, ill see if they can give a discount. my friend is good friends with brody at BSM and he's gonna instroduce me soon hopefully, so maybe he can give us a break on labor.

Henry's mechanic has already done a number of cam installs, so he's going to check on that for me.

A blower isn't out of the question, but between a KB, a Vortech, and H/C's, I'd prefer KB, H/C then Vortech.

TweekedGT · Sep 9, 2006

I had every bolt on imaginable and VT Stage 2 cams with 2004 PI heads and only put about 285 to the wheels. You will probably see a little over 300 to the wheels by adding the heads if you have full bolt ons.

san~man · Sep 9, 2006

I made a thread about this on MPH's forum too. Go read Tim's response there....basically he says 89 octane on an FI motor is bad.

Stang|ess · Sep 9, 2006

quit being a panty and pay for 92 .

can't your write it off?

jivepepper · Sep 9, 2006

san~man said:
Yes, I realize that a Mongoose kit will easily net around 350 or so at the wheels, but I need "reliability" over pure power.

Like I said, I know nothing is total foolproof, but an NA setup is less likely to break crap in the motor than an FI one is.

You won't get a mongoose for 3200. HELL I can build a intercooled kit cheaper than they sell a base kit.

hotmustang331 · Sep 9, 2006

I know a guy with an 03 GT...has P51 intake, full bolton, VT stg 2 heads, custom VT cams (between 2 and 3) AND a built shortblock....car makes 330RWHP through a 5spd. No way you getting 340RWHP...I think you may go 300RWHP with VT stg 2 heads and stg 2 cams.

I mean 300RWHP is VERY fast for a street car, it really moves. If your certain you will be happy with that, then what you have listed would be the best way to go.

san~man · Sep 9, 2006

Stang|ess said:
quit being a panty and pay for 92 .

can't your write it off?

Hell no, I'd rather stay the way I am then pay for gas again. We filled my wife's car at the pump today for 3.34 a gallon.

The car is fast enough as it is....I'm just greedy and want more power.

Torinalth · Sep 9, 2006

jeses, does nobody actually read the damn thread anymore?

at max without a solid tune to use 91 octane (which you said you dont have available) i'd assume 290 (H/C, stage 2) with intake and exhaust, pullies, and electric water pump. i dont know if anyone makes them, but you need to increase compression by whatever you can through thinnner head gaskets, then pull timing a hair and add more fuel to keep from pinging with the lack of octane.

granted i am no engine expert, but i can tell you that octane its self would be the big pusher for you through timing by a solid margine. take my advice for what its worth, but you WILL need to tune around the lack of octane (unless you want to dump octane booster into the tank every fill) to get the power while still remaining safe with all the mods you will need to get 300, or close...

Torinalth

timeless2 · Sep 9, 2006

Sanford, you're not alone in the quest to get FI with 89 to 90 octane. Let us know what you find out.

Stang|ess · Sep 9, 2006

Torinalth said:
jeses, does nobody actually read the damn thread anymore?
Torinalth

I know you wernt talking to me right? because I know that sanford is an officer and the c&c pays for his fuel (89 octane) that's why I said for him to stop being a panty and to pay for his own gas .

if you're dead set against anything other than 89, I say go for heads, intake and a stage 1 cam. that way, when you're at idle your ass won't go numb from all the vibration.

but again, can't you write off the 92 octane?

hotmustang331 · Sep 9, 2006

Wait a second...so there IS 93 octain available on the lava rock? Freegin Fred sanford can afford a H/C setup and pay for labor, but cant afford gas prices?

thats pretty funny .

san~man · Sep 10, 2006

hotmustang331 said:
Wait a second...so there IS 93 octain available on the lava rock? Freegin Fred sanford can afford a H/C setup and pay for labor, but cant afford gas prices?

thats pretty funny .

It's not that, the city gives me free gas when I use my car for work, but they only give you 89 unless your car comes from the factory requiring 91 octane. We used to get 91, but some brainiac decided to go with the 89 to save money. I was all ready to order the KB then they switched on us. Good thing I didn't. Cheap bastards

And I know I won't get anywhere near 340....like I said, I'd be happy, and lucky, to get 300RWHP. I'd be hella happy with that, but in actuality I think it'd be closer to 290 or so realistically.

hotmustang331 · Sep 10, 2006

Gotcha. Man must be nice cruizing around in the stang doing your job....tel the city you need these mods and 91 octain to catch the fast crimals that the crown vics cant .

But seriously, could you work out a deal where you just have them take $0.10 of every gallon out of your pay? That way you could get 91, but they pay you for 89 and you make up the difference...

ADRENLN · Sep 10, 2006

youll be lucky to hit 300rwhp with what you are thinking. youll need an intake to put you over 300 most likley.

Anyone seen any dyno number?

san~man

O-G

nwapache

New Member

jivepepper

san~man

O-G

san~man

O-G

Stang|ess

seeking cyber partner(s)

san~man

O-G

TweekedGT

New Member

san~man

O-G

Stang|ess

seeking cyber partner(s)

jivepepper

hotmustang331

Active Member

san~man

O-G

Torinalth

timeless2

Vi Veri Veni Versum Vicus Vici

Stang|ess

seeking cyber partner(s)

hotmustang331

Active Member

san~man

O-G

hotmustang331

Active Member

ADRENLN

Active Member

Similar threads

Anyone seen any dyno number?

O-G

New Member

O-G

O-G

seeking cyber partner(s)

O-G

New Member

O-G

seeking cyber partner(s)

Active Member

O-G

Vi Veri Veni Versum Vicus Vici

seeking cyber partner(s)

Active Member

O-G

Active Member

Active Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency