Anyone with a street bike?

#21
281pony said:
what were the differences in the bikes for you? was one more comfortable, easier to ride around town, ect?
Click to expand...
Yeah absolutely. I would say the f4i was much more refined for handling with the newer suspension, but moreover the switch to fuel injection on the f4i made it much better than the f3 for sheer driveability. As for the differences between the CBR and the f6, I would say that the cbr was still my preference, but if you are asking me to compare bikes I think the Kawasaki Ninja zx6r was by far my fav 600 cc bike... Smoothest ride, acceleration, and angle of rider for comfort...
 
#23
fiveohwblow said:
Yeah absolutely. I would say the f4i was much more refined for handling with the newer suspension, but moreover the switch to fuel injection on the f4i made it much better than the f3 for sheer driveability. As for the differences between the CBR and the f6, I would say that the cbr was still my preference, but if you are asking me to compare bikes I think the Kawasaki Ninja zx6r was by far my fav 600 cc bike... Smoothest ride, acceleration, and angle of rider for comfort...
Click to expand...

ok, so im really leaning towards the cbr now over an r6.

how would you say the gsx-r plays against these? it is in the same class as the other two bikes i believe.
 
#25
WANNA_BE_GT said:
The gsx-r 600 is faster, lighter, and more agile. If you have short legs, this is a great bike. But, it is not comfy. Good bike, but not great for daily riding. All depends on preference I guess.
Click to expand...

+1. Ask anyone well versed and unbiased on these bikes and they will repeat EXACTLY what what Wanna be GT just said.
 
#26
The CBR 600RR, R6, ZX6R, GSXR 600 are all in the same category. They all have pretty much the same speed and characteristics. If I remember right the CBR is supposed to be more competitive now because of a healthy weight reduction it was given. The yamaha's usually have the best suspension.

Go find a place that has them all and sit on them all. See whatever feels better for you.

While working at RMC I noticed the yamahas usally come in kind of clapped out and beat pretty bad, sometimes smoking a little.

The ZX6R's and GSXR 600's were by far the best selling bikes there.
 
#27
depending on how you cane regulate yourself, I would deffinately recomend getting a larger (litre) bike and putting a throttle stop on it or just being responsible... every person with a street bike that I've talked to has recomended that to me because they started out with a smaller bike, got used to it and then sold it for a larger faster one and lost quite a bit of money in the process... But if your not someone that can hold back on the throttle untill you halth learneth... a smaller bike is a good idea for you :)
 
#28
when I bought my bike I was able to sit on the GSXR 600, cbr 600, F4i, and the R6 the F4i was comfortable but I did not like the way the bike looked the cbr was over priced the gsxr was comfortable but the R6 was the bad boy at the time. I think one of the best new bikes is the new GSXR 750 a liter bike is not necesary but then again it it depends on your abilty as a rider. I have toyed with getting a Busa they are not as nimble but the acceleration is freakin amazing
 
#30
A liter bike is not preferable for a first time rider, or even a daily rider. There are a few reasons why:

1) The power. These bikes not only make tons of HP, but they make considerably more TQ. They make as much TQ as a honda car. That kind of power translates to more possible wheel spin. Especially in the corners where you are riding on a knifes edge regardless. You have to have a considerable amount of finese riding these bikes on the back roads. With a 600, due to the lack of TQ, you can run these hard just about anywhere, barring any gravel. Hell, I had my F4i in the snow (do not try unless you are experienced). It was tricky, but the bike made it.

2) Insurance. Insurance is just more expensive on a liter super sport.

3) Fear. Being fearful of your bike is very important. But once you get used to the bike, that fear goes away, and your balls get very large. Better to gain this experience on a 600, than on a liter. 600's are much more controllable in situations when the bike gets loose. Again, this referring back to poing #1.

To address a speed limiter on a liter bike. This is just not realistic. Regardless if you are able to limit the speed or throttle turn, these bikes still make so much power under the curve that it would still be a mean "wheelie bike". Plus, if you are NOT AN EXPERIENCED rider, in the rain or in any kind of adverse condition, if you don't know how to handle a 370LB + bike when it starts to get loose, then a liter bike is not for you. Granted, the new 600's makes gobs of power, they do not make any TQ. You have to wring them out pretty hard, or drop the clutch to make any crazy mistakes.

Good Luck!
 
#31
Agree with with everything wanna be just said. I'd also add the following:

1. When asking for advice from others, qualify that advice by determining how long and for how many miles they've been riding. You don't take motor rebuild advice from a 4th grader. Don't take bike purchase advice from some guy who "rode my brother's gixxer once. It kicked azz u should get 1 OMG!!11"

2. Come to grips with the fact that you'll drop your new bike on its side at least once, hopefully at low speed. Can you deal with this? It really sucks looking at a rashed bike with 500 miles on it. Consider buying used for your first bike, and looked for something naked. The SV you mentioned earlier can be had fairly cheap used. Plus, your insurance will be a lot less than it would be for a newbie with a new supersport. Buy the new, full-fairinged bike after you have the dropsies out of the way. Also remember that today's 600s make the same power as liter bikes did 15 years ago. They can be...unforgiving.

3. Take some kind of training course. This is the very best thing you can do for your long-term health. A motorcyce safety study called the Hurt Report determined that the most likely crashers were either a) self-trained, or b) taught by friends and family. Check out the Evergreen Safety Council for class times: http://www.esc.org/Motorcycle%20Training-shell.htm

4. Budget for gear, and wear it. Figure an extra $1000 on top of your purchase price for gear. Road rash really hurts--always wear a helmet (goes without saying), gloves, an armored jacket, riding pants, and good boots. The people wearing shorts, wifebeaters, and flip-flops haven't crashed yet. Asphalt is like a big belt sander.

5. Avoid Cycle Barn.
 
#32
mgwshel said:
Agree with with everything wanna be just said. I'd also add the following:

1. When asking for advice from others, qualify that advice by determining how long and for how many miles they've been riding. You don't take motor rebuild advice from a 4th grader. Don't take bike purchase advice from some guy who "rode my brother's gixxer once. It kicked azz u should get 1 OMG!!11"

2. Come to grips with the fact that you'll drop your new bike on its side at least once, hopefully at low speed. Can you deal with this? It really sucks looking at a rashed bike with 500 miles on it. Consider buying used for your first bike, and looked for something naked. The SV you mentioned earlier can be had fairly cheap used. Plus, your insurance will be a lot less than it would be for a newbie with a new supersport. Buy the new, full-fairinged bike after you have the dropsies out of the way. Also remember that today's 600s make the same power as liter bikes did 15 years ago. They can be...unforgiving.

3. Take some kind of training course. This is the very best thing you can do for your long-term health. A motorcyce safety study called the Hurt Report determined that the most likely crashers were either a) self-trained, or b) taught by friends and family. Check out the Evergreen Safety Council for class times: http://www.esc.org/Motorcycle%20Training-shell.htm

4. Budget for gear, and wear it. Figure an extra $1000 on top of your purchase price for gear. Road rash really hurts--always wear a helmet (goes without saying), gloves, an armored jacket, riding pants, and good boots. The people wearing shorts, wifebeaters, and flip-flops haven't crashed yet. Asphalt is like a big belt sander.

5. Avoid Cycle Barn.
Click to expand...

:Word:
 
#33
mgwshel said:
Agree with with everything wanna be just said. I'd also add the following:

2. Come to grips with the fact that you'll drop your new bike on its side at least once, hopefully at low speed. Can you deal with this? It really sucks looking at a rashed bike with 500 miles on it. Consider buying used for your first bike, and looked for something naked. The SV you mentioned earlier can be had fairly cheap used. Plus, your insurance will be a lot less than it would be for a newbie with a new supersport. Buy the new, full-fairinged bike after you have the dropsies out of the way. Also remember that today's 600s make the same power as liter bikes did 15 years ago. They can be...unforgiving.

4. Budget for gear, and wear it. Figure an extra $1000 on top of your purchase price for gear. Road rash really hurts--always wear a helmet (goes without saying), gloves, an armored jacket, riding pants, and good boots. The people wearing shorts, wifebeaters, and flip-flops haven't crashed yet. Asphalt is like a big belt sander.
Click to expand...

As a slight SV homer, I still think that would be the best starting point for 99% of new riders. They are cheap to buy, cheap to fix, and if you really want a full fairinged bike, there are some very good looking aftermarket fairings for this bike. The bad part is that the insurance. It is still a v-twin, which is all the insurance companies care about.

If you are not jaded by the 600's superbike numbers, the SV is more than fast enough for a noob. 0-60 under 3.5 sec, 1/4 mile in high 11's :D

And NEVER forget the gear. I shudder every time I see some 22 year old frat boy with his dime-piece girlfriend on the back of his Gixxer-1000 doing 70 on the freeway with 2 pounds of clothing combined. It's just a matter of time till they need skin grafts...

Full Fairing SV650s's

View attachment 389339
View attachment 389340
View attachment 389341
View attachment 389342


and my favorite type of look:

View attachment 389343
 
#36
what all is done to that last silver 650s?

im down to that bike or a cbr 600. i can get a killer deal on a barely used (200 miles) 06 cbr..

new bikes have such horrible freight/assembly fee's, so they kinda push me away combined with the instant depreciation.
 
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