Anyone with LT's come on in

03gtmustang · Jun 2, 2004

FIrst off I think we need a damn exhaust sticky, maybe gears too. But anyways Im about to get LT's this summer, but I want to make sure of some things first. First off, how many of you guys with LT's actually pass emissions? Second, what type of midpipes are you guys running with your LT's and why? For example, o/r h, o/r x, catted h. catted x, prochamber.. I dont really care what brand just which type. And last, for those of you that installed your LT's how long did it take, did you follow any directions online, and if there are any tips you could give me for the install that would be great.

Thanks a lot

GoBabyVroommm · Jun 3, 2004

With the LT question about emissions. The LTs do pass it just depends on what state your in. In chicago they pass as long as you have cats.

Buy a off road h pipe because if you have cats you'll be slowly burning them. I always keep a h pipe with a set of regular cats on the side and not high flow. High flow cats sometimes don't pass sometime.

With any LTs watch your oil pressure LTs will make you eat more oil till you get a tune.

As for the install my advice to you would be to have a shop do it. If you have all the tools go for it but it will be a weekend job.

stangman · Jun 3, 2004

well i don't have emissions here so i can't be much help there. but i run a prochamber with my l/t's. i love the sound. this is my 2nd mustang with the exact same exhaust, i just can't get away from it, cause it sounds so good plus it had nice power gains as well

StangLou · Jun 3, 2004

As stated above, it varies from state to state what you can get away with and still pass emissions. In NC from what all I have read online and been told by 2 Ford Dealers here none the less, I will pass as long as I have cats. L/T's will pass our visual exam, and as long as I have 2 cats from what I was told and read from the dmv/dot webpages I will be fine. I will know for sure come Sept/Oct when I take it in. I have the BBK catted X pipe on mine. It sounds GREAT imo. I had a Prochamber on it first and it sounded like ass above 3000rpm's or so I thought. It sounded builing up to around 3000 though. Just couldnt take the sound at higher rpms

Screwed2V · Jun 3, 2004

Well, the only question I can answer concerns the mid pipe. I run an o/r x pipe and to be honest with you I miss the h pipe sound. I may be swapping to a prochamber soon.

wei462 · Jun 3, 2004

I run a catted H. I was told that if I was going to go catted, to go with the H by Cobra Killer. I havent had my emmissions tested yet so I dont know about that. As far as the install went. I had a shop do it with me assisting. It took about 6 hours. You have to lift up the passenger side of the engine and we lifted up the drivers side as well. Not a whole lot of room in there so if you are going to do it in your driveway, I hope you have a lot of patience. I hope this helps.

PS, I like the sound of the mid pipe with the LTs and I am running Dynomax SuperTurbo mufflers. I like the sound a lot.

03gtmustang · Jun 3, 2004

I really dont want a catted pipe, at least not yet. Right now I have a prochamber but its for the stock headers. I was thinking about fitting that to the LT's, but I dont know. Either way Im going with an H. I want to try a mac o/r h with the mac lt's instead of a prochamber. I dont have enough money for a catted and o/r h pipe though.

mustangman70 · Jun 3, 2004

I dont understand why L/T's would eat oil??????????????

Nick3561 · Jun 3, 2004

I have SLP LT’s and their catted X, I pass emissions. I'm friends with the guys in the shop up my street. While I paid them for the installation, I actually was in the shop during 85% of the process, helping with what I could. It took us about 8hrs to complete, and without their help I couldn’t imagine doing that installation by myself.

03GTnewbie · Jun 3, 2004

I just got Lt's today and a catted h pipe. Sounds great, but I don't know about a tune. I asked the guy who dune my car and he said it didn't need one.

GoBabyVroommm · Jun 3, 2004

mustangman70 said:
I dont understand why L/T's would eat oil??????????????

There is a thread about on here somewhere. It has to do with your o2 sensors because they get moved back and your car starts thinking its running lean so it ups the fuel and makes it eat oil motor.

Its something like that i always hear it but don't bother thinking much of it because i know its not bs.

mustangman70 · Jun 3, 2004

The only way the engine could "eat" motor oil...was if oil was to somehow get into the combustion chamber. If the engine "thinks" it is running lean and then adds fuel this would just cause it to run a little rough. which would explain the tune, but not the loss of oil. Its impossible.

nickthegenius · Jun 4, 2004

mustangman70 said:
The only way the engine could "eat" motor oil...was if oil was to somehow get into the combustion chamber. If the engine "thinks" it is running lean and then adds fuel this would just cause it to run a little rough. which would explain the tune, but not the loss of oil. Its impossible.

Mustang70, you are right. What was stated is impossible and well....it just doesn't make any freaking sense. But then again, I had to get my car tuned after my cams because it would only turn left. Boy, you wouldn't believe how long it took to get to the tuners making only left turns

I think this is one of those cases where:

1. Forum member reads information.
2. Forum member sleeps.
3. Forum member reads more information.
4. Forum member does some other stuff.
5. Time passes.
6. While trying to type a coherent message on the forum, all information from #1 and #3 are jumbled.
7. The end result is fux0r3d jibberish

The whole "oil" story starts with Mac 4v headers. Certain board members here and elsewhere bolted Mac headers to their Cobras or engine-swapped GTs and ended up with some oil problems. Some people had scored cylinder walls and the whole nine yards. Some just ended up with a little blow-by. The culprit behind the whole mess is believed to be the sloppy welders that weld the Mac headers. There has been problems with leftover slag in the tubes. Then, the bits and pieces as tiny as they may be, are sucked back into the engine through the EGR valve. They then travel through the intake and into the combustion chamber where they end up being ground into the cylinder walls.

For some reason, this seems to be fairly well confined to 4v LTs and few people have reported problems with the 2v headers. Some people on ModularDepot.com have gone as far as to temporarily block the EGR until all the slag is believed to have had time to dislodge itself and travel out the exhaust. You don't want to do it permanently unless you're a die-hard racer because unlike other emissions equipment, the EGR is harmless when it comes to performance and actually helps with mileage a little.

Why am I typing all this at 2:41am? I checked the board one last time before I went to bed and had to comment on the worst disinformation since the fall of the KGB.

stangman · Jun 4, 2004

very well put nick

& micool did you switch screennames

Screwed2V · Jun 4, 2004

c2see21 said:
& micool did you switch screennames

Yes sir, seems more fitting now.

DarkHorse02GT · Jun 4, 2004

A question for ya'll out there... my check engine light keeps coming on for the 02 sensors... i have the MIL eliminators on the rear set, but would they work on the fronmt set as well??? Or is the only way to get it running perfect again with a chip or tune? Is there any chip that I can order that they can turn off those sensors or something for me (like superchips, or diablo)... any help appreciated

GoBabyVroommm · Jun 4, 2004

nickthegenius said:
Mustang70, you are right. What was stated is impossible and well....it just doesn't make any freaking sense. But then again, I had to get my car tuned after my cams because it would only turn left. Boy, you wouldn't believe how long it took to get to the tuners making only left turns

I think this is one of those cases where:

1. Forum member reads information.
2. Forum member sleeps.
3. Forum member reads more information.
4. Forum member does some other stuff.
5. Time passes.
6. While trying to type a coherent message on the forum, all information from #1 and #3 are jumbled.
7. The end result is fux0r3d jibberish

The whole "oil" story starts with Mac 4v headers. Certain board members here and elsewhere bolted Mac headers to their Cobras or engine-swapped GTs and ended up with some oil problems. Some people had scored cylinder walls and the whole nine yards. Some just ended up with a little blow-by. The culprit behind the whole mess is believed to be the sloppy welders that weld the Mac headers. There has been problems with leftover slag in the tubes. Then, the bits and pieces as tiny as they may be, are sucked back into the engine through the EGR valve. They then travel through the intake and into the combustion chamber where they end up being ground into the cylinder walls.

For some reason, this seems to be fairly well confined to 4v LTs and few people have reported problems with the 2v headers. Some people on ModularDepot.com have gone as far as to temporarily block the EGR until all the slag is believed to have had time to dislodge itself and travel out the exhaust. You don't want to do it permanently unless you're a die-hard racer because unlike other emissions equipment, the EGR is harmless when it comes to performance and actually helps with mileage a little.

Why am I typing all this at 2:41am? I checked the board one last time before I went to bed and had to comment on the worst disinformation since the fall of the KGB.

Yeaaaa buudddyyy! Thanx bro i didn't know how to explain it. I wish i didn't get the mac but owell i'm not about to change those headers till i put my built block in.

03gtmustang · Jun 5, 2004

So would leaving the EGR valve unhooked after the header install cause any negative effects? How long do you think Id have to leave it unhooked? And has anyone tried cutting a mid pipe (like the prochamber) to fit their LT's? Didnt c2see21 do it. How did you do it?

stangman · Jun 5, 2004

03gtmustang said:
So would leaving the EGR valve unhooked after the header install cause any negative effects? How long do you think Id have to leave it unhooked? And has anyone tried cutting a mid pipe (like the prochamber) to fit their LT's? Didnt c2see21 do it. How did you do it?

i've done all of the above

leaving the egr unhooked will have no negative affect at all, well maybe your gas milage might drop, but that will be hardly noticiable. as a matter of fact i didn't even notice a difference (hooked mine back up after about 6,000 mi)

as for cutting the mid-pipe down, it's very doable. i had my shop order in some ball & socket flanges in. they cut down the pipe & welded on the ball & sockets & it was perfect. you could have it welded on, but i wanted to be able to take it off, just incase i had to say.... replace the clutch or something. it's much wiser to make it removable

darkhorse02gt - the most likely reason that your check engine light is getting thrown is the front o2's are not hot enough. when you put l/t's on, the o2's position is moved farther down from the engine. a o2 sensor has to be at a certain temperature to work properly, so when you move it down farther it takes longer to get hot enough. as a matter of fact mine just came on because of the same reason, just drive it for a day or 2 & it should go off by itself

03gtmustang · Jun 5, 2004

c2see21 said:
i've done all of the above

leaving the egr unhooked will have no negative affect at all, well maybe your gas milage might drop, but that will be hardly noticiable. as a matter of fact i didn't even notice a difference (hooked mine back up after about 6,000 mi)

as for cutting the mid-pipe down, it's very doable. i had my shop order in some ball & socket flanges in. they cut down the pipe & welded on the ball & sockets & it was perfect. you could have it welded on, but i wanted to be able to take it off, just incase i had to say.... replace the clutch or something. it's much wiser to make it removable

darkhorse02gt - the most likely reason that your check engine light is getting thrown is the front o2's are not hot enough. when you put l/t's on, the o2's position is moved farther down from the engine. a o2 sensor has to be at a certain temperature to work properly, so when you move it down farther it takes longer to get hot enough. as a matter of fact mine just came on because of the same reason, just drive it for a day or 2 & it should go off by itself

I want to do the exact same thing you did, how much did the shop charge you? Do you know how they measured where to cut?

Anyone with LT's come on in

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