AOD with stock shifter & factory console on 67?

Robdogg67 · Jan 13, 2006

Getting ready to finally put in my dream powertrain, 331 stroker with an Art Carr AOD. The AOD will be the better (and of course more expensive) or newer? model with the auto/manual valve body the goes into overdrive via a simple switch that the driver can actuate anytime or not for increased flexibility. This eliminates having the cable setup altogether and also eliminates the chance of burning it up due to improper cable setup or malfunction as the valve body does the job. Through my stangnet searches Ive learned alot including except for my question below.

I love my factory console and I want to keep it with the stock shifter, how can I keep my stock shifter/console with the AOD as the "throw" is different on the AOD? I think there are a couple who have done it here but I'm all searched out and still looking for the answer. The Art Carr tech didn't know but he also told me that I could still use my factory length driveline (Huh?). I assumed I'd have to shorten, more research on that one too I guess.

Any assistance on the stock shifter /AOD dilemma is appreciated!

geostang351 · Jan 14, 2006

Here is a link to the shift linkage you require for your swap. It allows for change in geometry when converting to the AOD and retaining your stock shifter. You need to remove the tranny pan to do this change. Tough to do on your back, I did mine while the tranny was out.

You may need to shorten your drive shaft. Need a new tranny crossmember as the tail shaft on the AOD is a little different.

http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchan...Product_Code=11942&Category_Code=auto_shifter
http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchan...&Product_Code=10044&Category_Code=trans_mount

Robdogg67 · Jan 14, 2006

Thanks Geo, is the pan removal to get the shift lever pointed in the "up" direction, 180 deg. from where it usually is on the later models? More input and sources is appreciated.

geostang351 · Jan 14, 2006

Robdogg67 said:
Thanks Geo, is the pan removal to get the shift lever pointed in the "up" direction, 180 deg. from where it usually is on the later models? More input and sources is appreciated.

That is correct. You would need to turn it over the 180 as you described. You also need to remove the old lever in the tranny to install the new one. There is a pin that hold the lever within the tranny that needs to be pulled and then put back in to hold it in place. I had a real problem with this.

I have a picture on my computer downstairs of this that I will post in a little bit.

EDIT: Thought I had a better picture then this.
Notice the small pin inside wher the arm enters the tran. That holds the arm in place and needs to be removed. (Was NOT easy)

View attachment 491172

Clark · Jan 16, 2006

Not sure how much different your setup is but on my 69 with the FMX I just rotated the arm up and then removed the shifter linkage reversed it 180. The floor shifter works almost perfect in line with the shift indicator. I also used the same crossmember by notching it to clear the pan. As for the driveshaft no shortening required and I used the same u-joint but had to purchase a different yoke from NPD.

Edbert · Jan 16, 2006

Whoah!

Is the arm rotation necessary on a swap from a car that had a column shifter? I'm curious about this since an AOD out of a Mustang used a floor shifter too. The full forward position on the Mustang was park just like the classics. Of course there's an extra "notch", that I understand. But if the newer shift pattern was PRND321 and the old was PRND21 why does the shaft need reversing?

Also, my TV cable from Lokar will only work with the TV arm in the up position unless I route it towards the back of the car like you did, in which case the cable would have tpo be VERY long.

I've read a number of articles on this and do not recall seeing that the arms needed reversing.

Edbert · Jan 16, 2006

Okay, now that I am all freaked out I went digging through my articles. This is the best photo I could find, and it is exactly how mine is set up.

Here's the full article

So did I do it like the article said and get it wrong or are you using a column shift tranny?

geostang351 · Jan 16, 2006

Good point Edbert. Forgot to ask if the new tranny is from a column shift or floor shift donnor. If coloumn shift donor, rotate, if floor, no rotate.

Edbert · Jan 16, 2006

Thank god, I can breath again...LOL.

Robdogg67 · Jan 17, 2006

Thanks for the extra effort Geo and Edbert. Let me see if I have this straight, new crossmember with new tranny mount (rubber or new red poly), new shifter linkage (winsor fox) for the OE shifter.

Art Carr says the OD operates via a driver operated switch with the auto valve body, like an AODE but without the seperate electric box. I'll ask them what year the tranny is from and if they are from floor (preferred for me) or steering mounted shifters, thanks for the heads up. But won't I need the TV cable anyway for the passing gear like in Edbert's article pic? Geo, on your pic it looks like the pan has been removed and the cable bracket bolted to the gasket/pan surface? Is that for the passing gear (TV cable?) mounting?

My 67 has the lower arm (that pivots with gas pedal) with a 6" cable mounted to the shifter arm on driver side for the passing gear. Could I use this same setup on the AOD by making sure the tranny arm is up and modifying the cable length? Ya know, I'll be putting some headers (hopefully long tubes similiar to Edbert's H/E's if they will clear my steering box) and maybe that lower arm/cable will have to go anyway due to the potential header clearance issue which would then require the TV cable anyway mounted to the new carb - just thinking out loud, help me clear the mud.

To summarize there should be two upward pointed levers on the new AOD with the inner most one hooked up to the cable for the passing gear and the outer one connected to the "new" W/F shifter linkage to my shifter, am I right? Thanks.

Edbert · Jan 17, 2006

If it is not an AODE then the OD selection (or lock out) must be machanical as far as I know.

The TV cable is a throttle position sensor, it does function SORT OF like the mechanical kick down did on the C4 but not exactly the same. Apparently there's more "logic" inside the AOD.

I have the shifter link pointing down and the TV cable link pointing up in mine.

I had a ton of clearance with my long tubes at every point EXCEPT the trans-pan and the collectors. Unfortunately that is exactly where the linkage is and it is quite tight in there. Much of my steering and bellhousing clearance is because I have a 351W which moves the heads apart significantly. I hear that long tubes with an AOD is tough on a 289/302/5.0, YMMV.

geostang351 · Jan 17, 2006

Robdogg67 said:
Thanks for the extra effort Geo and Edbert. Let me see if I have this straight, new crossmember with new tranny mount (rubber or new red poly), new shifter linkage (winsor fox) for the OE shifter.

Art Carr says the OD operates via a driver operated switch with the auto valve body, like an AODE but without the seperate electric box. I'll ask them what year the tranny is from and if they are from floor (preferred for me) or steering mounted shifters, thanks for the heads up. But won't I need the TV cable anyway for the passing gear like in Edbert's article pic? Geo, on your pic it looks like the pan has been removed and the cable bracket bolted to the gasket/pan surface? Is that for the passing gear (TV cable?) mounting?

My 67 has the lower arm (that pivots with gas pedal) with a 6" cable mounted to the shifter arm on driver side for the passing gear. Could I use this same setup on the AOD by making sure the tranny arm is up and modifying the cable length? Ya know, I'll be putting some headers (hopefully long tubes similiar to Edbert's H/E's if they will clear my steering box) and maybe that lower arm/cable will have to go anyway due to the potential header clearance issue which would then require the TV cable anyway mounted to the new carb - just thinking out loud, help me clear the mud.

To summarize there should be two upward pointed levers on the new AOD with the inner most one hooked up to the cable for the passing gear and the outer one connected to the "new" W/F shifter linkage to my shifter, am I right? Thanks.

From what I remember, the tranny mount that you should use is the C4 mount. You can use yours from the old tranny being removed (if its decent condition), or get a new one (rubber or poly; couldn't answer that).

The shifter linkage you can purchase from CJ Pony parts or other. I believe through this forum that Windsor Fox is out of business (or awefully close).

You will need the TV cable for the kick down and the old "cable" on the pedal rod is eliminated. It is now non-funtional.

You are correct about my picture as that is the TV cable. It's installed like that as a mock up as I wanted to see have everything works. When ready, I installed the "L" bracket at this same location but with the pan on.

I don't know if I agree with both levers pointing up in your last statement. In Edberts photo he has them 180* from one another and on my 68, they are also 180* from each other, so that is 2 (one up and one down) to 0 (both up).

Robdogg67 · Jan 17, 2006

Thanks to Geo & Edberts details, I think I got now, TV lever up and shifter lever down, old pedal cable/lever not necessary and I'll need the TV cable and retro linkage.

Not to highjack my own thread but my stroker will be one of the new 5.0 roller blocks with AFR 185 heads. For headers that will clear, could I order the Hedman Elites (or Hooker comps?) for a 351W application like Edbert? I'll have to do more research to see if they will clear my 67' OE power steering system (likely be swapped out with a power R&P in the future)?

geostang351 · Jan 17, 2006

I'd suggest starting another thread with these new issues so it gets the necessary "looks" by the entire forumn, thus more prospective responses.

Edbert · Jan 17, 2006

I just snapped a pic of my linkage.

the bolt is not tightened since I need to adjust the rod length a bit yet.

geostang351 · Jan 18, 2006

WOAH! Edbert, you linkage nut looks like its about to fall off! Nylon treaded? Lock tighted?
Everything looks croocked/binding.

chepsk8 · Jan 18, 2006

When I did the AOD swap in the 69 'Vert, it was from a column shift car.

As for the shifter, I modded the factory shifter by changing the location the shift rod mounts to higher up on the arm from the original mounting point, and added a notch on the detent rail on the shifter for OD. Made the AOD invisible from above, and also when driving!

Edbert · Jan 18, 2006

geostang351 said:
WOAH! Edbert, you linkage nut looks like its about to fall off! Nylon treaded? Lock tighted?
Everything looks croocked/binding.

The nut is not tight at all, I mentioned that above. The rod length needs adjusting still. I'll probably put a lock washer on it like the other bolt has.

There is NO binding on either lever. I am not too happy with the angle of the TV cable where it reached the lever but operation is quite smooth.

Edbert · Jan 18, 2006

chepsk8 said:
When I did the AOD swap in the 69 'Vert, it was from a column shift car.

As for the shifter, I modded the factory shifter by changing the location the shift rod mounts to higher up on the arm from the original mounting point, and added a notch on the detent rail on the shifter for OD. Made the AOD invisible from above, and also when driving!

Does the 69 shifter have the notches/detents in it like the 67 does? I'm just curious how easy it was to select the extra gear without being in between the detents.

chepsk8 · Jan 18, 2006

Yes, Identical.

When I re-located the attachment point on the lower arm of the shifter to accomodate the longer travel of the AOD arm, I had to change a notch. It's too bad, the car is two year's gone, but I think I either had to shorten the reverse step, or create a new nuetral slot. Something to that effect, but it worked out great. Mess around with the linkages, it can be done.

Another cool thing is by changing the TV adjustment, you can alter how the tranny shifts.

AOD with stock shifter & factory console on 67?

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