Are Roller Cams Worth It?
- Thread starter doogie67
- Start date
302 coupe
Founding Member
jerry S
New Member
D.Hearne said:
I am still thinking about it but the numbers so far indicate that my outlay of almost $1k just in parts ($245 cam, $500 lifters, $200 springs) will result in all of 25 extra HP.
302 coupe
Founding Member
jerry S
New Member
302 coupe said:
I am thinking long and hard about a new hydraulic roller but I just cannot convince myself that the performance gains are worth the outlay. And I am somebody who is easily convinced.
the cam in my car is a new hydraulic flat tappet ($150), as are the comp cams pro magnum push rods ($120).
A roller cam is $245, the lifters are either $300 or $500 (depending on whether you go good or best), and I would need new pushrods at $120 and new springs ($200). And for what? 25 hp? I just have not convinced myself YET.
I did order the 3.70s however.
302 coupe
Founding Member
I can't blame you, thats the only reason I haven't gone roller yet. Under .600 lift, I don't see the point. My pistons won't let me go anywhere near that far, maybe on the next build....
Correct me if I'm wrong...
I believe there is at least one other benifit to having a roller setup, (reducing friction, increasing breathing), and that is an increase in responsiveness. I think in terms of how your car feels, that change can feel just as dramatic as an increase in HP. Hitting the pedal and having it push RIGHT NOW can be just as thrilling as extra HP's. In this case you may get some of both. Am I all wet or have any of you experienced this?
I believe there is at least one other benifit to having a roller setup, (reducing friction, increasing breathing), and that is an increase in responsiveness. I think in terms of how your car feels, that change can feel just as dramatic as an increase in HP. Hitting the pedal and having it push RIGHT NOW can be just as thrilling as extra HP's. In this case you may get some of both. Am I all wet or have any of you experienced this?
Hack
15 Year Member
EFI is more responsive than a carb, but a hydraulic roller is not more responsive than a flat tappet hydraulic.scouttrooper said:
302 coupe
Founding Member
I have never driven an EFI car that was as responsive as a tuned carb. I do agree that a roller cam, in itself, will not improve throttle response. There really isn't that much difference in friction. Most people don't realize that a flat tappet has a smaller friction surface than a roller tappet. There is no grinding/scraping along like some people seem to think. The lifter spins and glides along quite nicely actually. The only advantage to roller cams is that they allow for a more aggressive ramp design, and you don't have to deal with the bothersome cam break-in procedure, lol.
jerry S
New Member
tylerrocks said:
Here is what the parts outlay for my roller conversion project would cost
CCA-26-986-16 BEEHIVE SPRINGS SBF $201.69
CCA-35-426-8 Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 288/294, Lift .555/.576, Ford, Small Block, Each $245.95
CCA-35100 Distributor Gear, Composite, Carbon Ultra-Poly, .530 in. Diameter Shaft, Ford, 221-302/351W, Each $115.69
CCA-614-16 Valve Locks, Machined, Hardened Steel, 10 Degree, 1-Groove, 11/32 in. Valve Stem, Set of 16 $25.95
CCA-795-16 Valve Spring Retainers, Steel, 10 Degree, 1.455 in. Outside Diameter, 1.095 in. Inside Diameter, Set of 16 $49.99
CCA-7963-16 Pushrods, Hi-Tech, Chromemoly, 5/16 in. Diameter, 7.700 in. Length, Ball Ends, Hardened, Set of 16 $127.95
CCA-8931-16 HYDRAULIC ROLLER LIFTERS $549.39
Sub Total: $1,316.61
That is a lot of jack. I am not saying I have definitely ruled it out. My heads and intake are going in for porting this witner and if I will ever do this conversion, it will be then. I just ain't for sure. At least not yet.
mdjay
Premium Sponsor
I'm not sure about the simple statement of 25hp extra. Everything you do to the motor will exploit the fact their is less friction to free up the hp! Kinda also depends on the rpm's you plan on running. By design they'll take more abuse and should last longer.
On the other hand, I have plenty of friends that run hydraulic and make plenty of power!
On the other hand, I have plenty of friends that run hydraulic and make plenty of power!
bad68coupe
New Member
okay i have been reading all these different threads and different people say different things, just one question.
Which has less friction?
Which has less friction?
jerry S
New Member
mdjay said:
I discussed my set up at length and in detail with Andy "the Butcher" Dunn and he opined that the roller cam I am currently considering would net me an additional 25 hp over what I have now.
jerry S said:
Although a nice setup, it's also the most expensive way of going roller. I have a comp cams roller setup which costs about:
Custom ground retro fit (reduced base circle) cam: 265
Push rods: $50
Retainers: $50
Valve keys: $25
Valve springs: $100
lifters: $190 (could also use Ford replacements for about $120)
lifter valley spider and "dog bones": $45
The above parts are all Comp Cams and were recommended with the cam.
Total: $725
Not cheap either, that's for sure. It depends a lot on your situation. If you already have a performance type valve train with a flat tappet cam in your engine right now, than $700-1300 is a lot of money for the gain achieved. However, if you're building up an engine from scratch and would need a complete valve train anyway, then the difference becomes a lot less.
Hack
15 Year Member
You can never say that bolting on one thing will give you X horsepower. How much will you gain with a roller? It depends on what exactly you are running now and what roller you're putting in the car.
brianj5600
Active Member
Did anyone read the 1st post? All blocks are roller blocks when you use SOLID rollers. If you plan on lots of street miles, make sure the lifters and cam profile is intended for the street.
Hack
15 Year Member
Well written about the cam.302 coupe said:
/offtopic: I don't understand how a carb can possibly be more responsive than EFI, though. A carb can never do as good a job at getting the fuel mixture correct, and the injectors on an EFI system are closer to the cylinder than the carb is. Possibly you have driven carbed cars that were very powerful, which made them seem more responsive than factory EFI cars with less power. That's the only realistic explanation I can think of.
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