B cam
- Thread starter StangzRUs
- Start date
88mouse
New Member
I agree with going with the E cam over the B. unless you already bought the B. My 90 had a B when I bought it and after it blew a head gasket I upgraded to the E cam, had the heads rebuilt, shaved .030, new springs for added peace of mind, & put on an Explorer intake with a 1" spacer between the top & bottom to top it off. There were no piston to valve clearance issues to worry about. Haven't been back to the track yet to prove how much I gained but it "feels" like it has more power than it did with the B
Could it be that if "feels" like it has more power than the "B" cam because of all of the "other stuff" that was done and that it is not the cam at all that made the difference? The "E" cam actually has less duration than the "E" cam and in certain combo's would make less power, not more.
Maryland Stang
Active Member
DADDYJUSTANG
Founding Member
Also , with the stock 1.6 ratio rockers on both cams the "E" has more lift, .498 versus the "B" with .480 . But if you put 1.7 ratio rockers on the "B" it bumps up to .510 lift for a cam that has more lift AND more duration. Now from what I have heard for the longest time .520 is the largest you can go with stock heads and pistons. So this won't work with an "E" because it would bring the lift up to .529 which would introduce the valves to the piston in a meeting you don't want to see. If you want just a little more on the "B" you can put on 1.72 ratio rockers and get .516 lift.
p.s. I can't remember if the piston to valve clearance is the reason for the .520 lift limit or was it the valve spring bind limit. Either way it wouldn't be good.
white 89 GT
Member
I thought the B cam was for the 85 carbed engine.
Im sure there is someone that would know more about it than me, its just what I heard.
Im sure there is someone that would know more about it than me, its just what I heard.
bubba-dough
Active Member
I went with a tfs 1 cam. couldn't be happier.
I have a feeling that by special installation, this means he hasn't ever tackled a project this big.
In a sense, yes it does require special installation.
I had to tear off all my front accessories and timing cover, then my rockers and intake to swap the cam. it's a big freaking project.
Anderson ford motorsports sells a tool that goes in your lifter holes that allows you to swap the cam by not pulling your lower intake. It holds the lifters up magnetically so they don't drop when you yank the cam.
This tool saved me so much time it wasn't even funny. It still is a big project though. I got lucky and was able to bolt it all back together and not change the oil pan gasket. However, there is a solid chance that you'll have to lift the engine up and change the pan gasket when you're done.
To the original poster....do NOT replace the cam unless you already have aftermarket heads and intake. It's not worth the trouble and will not really get you any gains with stock heads and intake.
I have a feeling that by special installation, this means he hasn't ever tackled a project this big.
In a sense, yes it does require special installation.
I had to tear off all my front accessories and timing cover, then my rockers and intake to swap the cam. it's a big freaking project.
Anderson ford motorsports sells a tool that goes in your lifter holes that allows you to swap the cam by not pulling your lower intake. It holds the lifters up magnetically so they don't drop when you yank the cam.
This tool saved me so much time it wasn't even funny. It still is a big project though. I got lucky and was able to bolt it all back together and not change the oil pan gasket. However, there is a solid chance that you'll have to lift the engine up and change the pan gasket when you're done.
To the original poster....do NOT replace the cam unless you already have aftermarket heads and intake. It's not worth the trouble and will not really get you any gains with stock heads and intake.
