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Back in the 2V game again..a few Qs

  • Thread starter Thread starter DavidCroft
  • Start date Start date Feb 4, 2007
D

DavidCroft

Founding Member
Mar 16, 2002
194
0
0
Sugar Land TX(Houston Area)
Feb 4, 2007
#1
  • Feb 4, 2007
  • #1
Well after having a 96 GT, a 97 Cobra with a fully built motor and every single bolt on, then going to a gas saver SVT Focus for a year, I am finally back in the 2V game.
On Weds of this week I bought a 2004 5speed white GT with 15K miles. Long Story short I plan on keeping it N/A. With that being said I want to do a plenum and TB along with full exhaust, JLT intake.....and eventually heads with stage 2or3NA cams. But which TB size should I go with? 70 or 75mm knowing I will always be N/A? Appreciate your input.
 

Cobra123089

Member
Sep 30, 2006
94
0
7
Broomfield CO/ Laramie WY
Feb 4, 2007
#2
  • Feb 4, 2007
  • #2
i would only go to 70mm personally without Forced induction, but there are people that may disagree. i think i saw a post one time where on a stock car with a 75 mm got 1-2hp more than a 70mm.
 
T

thomas91169

I'd donkey punch my sister.
Aug 19, 2005
0
0
0
Modesto, CA
Feb 4, 2007
#3
  • Feb 4, 2007
  • #3
if youre gonna go all out n/a then why not try to give your intake the best flow it can right off the bat. its one thing you dont have to worry about later.
 

the98stang

Active Member
Aug 12, 2005
2,408
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47
Clovis, CA
Feb 5, 2007
#4
  • Feb 5, 2007
  • #4
DavidCroft said:
But which TB size should I go with? 70 or 75mm knowing I will always be N/A? Appreciate your input.
Click to expand...

They are both pretty worthless. You might see 5-7WHP gain with a plenum/TB combo. Why waste your money? A fast N/A 2v is going to cost a ton of money.
 

MyBloodRunsBlue

New Member
Feb 1, 2007
127
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0
Feb 5, 2007
#5
  • Feb 5, 2007
  • #5
70
 

ADRENLN

Active Member
Apr 16, 2003
2,342
3
49
NJ
Feb 5, 2007
#6
  • Feb 5, 2007
  • #6
i dont think it makes a big difference between the 2. anyway, i would go with the 75mm if you think you are going to go all out na. i mean everything....actually, if you are going all out na, you should just get the bullitt intake and go from there.
 

Jackie Chan

I didn't read this.
Founding Member
Oct 17, 2002
2,507
4
48
Orlando, FL
Feb 5, 2007
#7
  • Feb 5, 2007
  • #7
skip the cai
 

Stang|ess

seeking cyber partner(s)
Oct 18, 2003
941
0
37
Hawaii
Feb 5, 2007
#8
  • Feb 5, 2007
  • #8
if you plan on making your car decently quick, it's cheaper to go with a blower, than to keep it na.

*i meant if you're going to keep full interior, not go with 4.56+ gears, drag springs, don't have john behind the wheel, etc. if you want a decently quick street car, go with a blower.
 
W

Will Smith

New Member
Aug 8, 2004
191
0
0
Cape Coral, FL
Feb 5, 2007
#9
  • Feb 5, 2007
  • #9
I agree with the blower on a stock motor at bout 9psi. but if you choose to stay N/A I would first put if I could do it over again money into a nice intake not just a plenum and cams and some LT's or midlengths.
 

Rickey_Bobby

New Member
Nov 8, 2006
332
0
0
Sarasota, FL
Feb 5, 2007
#10
  • Feb 5, 2007
  • #10
Until someone comes out with a (good) aftermarket intake for the 4.6, staying NA will cost more than FI, and be a lot slower. You CAN however make a quick NA car then bolt up some nitrous.

I would suggest stage 1 cams, LT's, bigger MAF, 30# injectors, bigger fuel pump, cold air intake w/ K&N, stronger clutch, and then finally, a nitrous system.

Stage 2 cams are overkill, and would require valvetrain modification.

Stage 3 cams would SUCK without a fully ported and built head.

Also, if you would like to get into the motor... you can always do some I-beam rods and flat top pistons for about $760 in parts. Would raise your CR to 9.5-11.5:1 depending on what piston you go with.

I have seen one stang running stg 2 crower cams (with new valve springs), LT's and the I beams/pistons running 11:1 compression... It was a bada$$ NA car.
 
D

DavidCroft

Founding Member
Mar 16, 2002
194
0
0
Sugar Land TX(Houston Area)
Feb 6, 2007
#11
  • Feb 6, 2007
  • #11
I already know N/A is slower than FI and is quite a bit costly. The Heads and cams I'm talking about are probably 1-2 years down the road. With just the basic bolt on stuff, what are you guys recommending for TB size?

I guess I should have made myself more clear.
 

scupking

Active Member
Sep 18, 2005
1,186
1
36
Enfield, CT
Feb 6, 2007
#12
  • Feb 6, 2007
  • #12
Get the kit form RPMouttlet its only $199 and comes with a Pro Products 75mm TB and a Plenum.
 

tmoneyballin

New Member
Aug 16, 2006
113
0
0
Suwanee, GA
Feb 6, 2007
#13
  • Feb 6, 2007
  • #13
First two mods: Long Tubes W/ X pipe, Gear. If you want to get the most bang for your buck, or get the mustang to buck - those will do you right. If you want the thrill of an additional 20 hp and sound then go for a cheap O/R X pipe, but if you have the money to spend go all out with long tubes, especially if you plan on keeping it N/A. I think everybody that ends up building their car regrets not spending the additional money to get the best exhaust front the start. I mean you have to look at your immediate VS. long term goals. Both of those mods would suit both. If you are looking to make a statement then small 5 hp mods will get spanked if they are your bread and butter. Those 2 mods could show up some of your chevy's out there, just depends on what you are looking for...
 
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