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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

bad handling, some body rot

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mark_69
  • Start date Start date Apr 9, 2008
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Pakrat

Founding Member
Aug 6, 2000
3,843
0
56
Currently: NH Originally: Rhode Island (and all po
Apr 15, 2008
#21
  • Apr 15, 2008
  • #21
Mark_69 said:
I'm afraid its going to be pricey fixing the rust, but it needs to be done. Shocks are an easy change. I still need to find the body dimensions.. I'll make a post on 69stang.com and see what they have to say.
Click to expand...

Do you still see a red X in this thread? Try clicking on the pic link instead.

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=717&d=1160184434

Also, here is the original thread I got the pic from, about 4 posts down:

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=1773
 
D

dmoody

Founding Member
Nov 4, 2002
789
0
17
Winston-Salem, NC
Apr 15, 2008
#22
  • Apr 15, 2008
  • #22
It looks like you'll need new torque boxes, floor pans, rear frame rails, possibly new inner rockers, front frame rails and a trunk floor. You have pitting on your suspension so I imagine you'll want to replace a lot of those parts too. You're looking at around 2- 3K in parts if you do it yourself and already have all the necessary tools. Meanwhile I wouldn't drive the car with the rust you have on those rear frame rails. Go slow and think it through. Let us know if you have questions.

david
 

Mark_69

New Member
May 20, 2007
20
0
0
New York City
Apr 15, 2008
#23
  • Apr 15, 2008
  • #23
Thanks

Thanks for the pictures, Pakrat.
Thanks for the advice, Craig. Let me know if you end up selling that 1" bar.
Thanks Dmoody. The floor pans aren't so bad. There is a one inch hole on the passenger side, just in front of the seat perch. The front suspension isn't in bad shape either, maybe a little surface rust. Trunk floor is fine.

I'm going to swing by the local mustang expert to take a good look at what parts/labor is needed. The parts aren't so much individually, but they do add up.
Other than the metal, I'll take a look at roller perches, softer rear springs/shocks, front sway bar and lowering the front a bit.

My stance is too high in the front. These progressive springs are well settled in after 10 years, so how much coil do you estimate I should cut? Is this a bad idea on a progressive spring and should I instead buy lowering springs? Finally, is there a reliable way to figure out the rear ride height with rear lowering springs? Distance from axle center to top of fender lip?

I've never welded, but he might let me learn with him and I'll try do what I can to cut costs. I also need to build a relationship with the Long Island mustang club and see who these guys recommend.

Man.. and today someone randomly sucker punched me in the face as I walked out of the subway this afternoon. Totally unexpected. He then ran away.
 
R

runawayabc123

Member
Mar 9, 2007
192
0
16
Wisconsin
Apr 15, 2008
#24
  • Apr 15, 2008
  • #24
Wow, I am shocked. From your first pictures, I didn't think you would have that kind of rust. I agree... limit the driving as you don't want something to pull apart on you at... well any speed.

Also, my fear is that when you go down the repairing road, you may find a whole lot more rot in places you never suspected.

Good luck on the repairs.
 

gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
1
16
London (uk)
Aug 16, 2008
#25
  • Aug 16, 2008
  • #25
That's a very nice car you got there
 

Mark_69

New Member
May 20, 2007
20
0
0
New York City
Aug 18, 2008
#26
  • Aug 18, 2008
  • #26
Thanks.. It has been a busy summer. Hopefully I will make some progress this winter.
 
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