Baers are on!!!.... Mostly... [pics]

[Swede958]

Alrighty, so far after 2 days and about 10 hours of work... I have two spiffy looking spindles mounted with 12" Baer sport package brakes... and a PITA distribution block that won't give up the lines

Here is the spindle with the mounting brackets for the PBR calipers. I wanted a little more color than plain black so I chose dark ford blue- just happens to match my car

This is of course the caliper and rotor all mounted together.


THe Swede

 

[Swede958]

This is another shot of the whole assembly. Included in this one is the braided brake line included in the kit.

And this is what the finished product looks like behind the wheels I have. Gotta love V48s!!!

THe Swede

 

[allcarfan]

purty



nice sneaker too

 

[LMan]

[hemi commerical] Schwe-e-e-e-T! [/hemi commerical]

 

[Swede958]

Write up...

Alrighty... for those who are getting ready to or planning on doing a baer upgrade... this is what I've done/needed so far for the sports.
1. Jack the car up and put it on some jack stands (Baer recco's 3 ton- I got no prob with that)
2. Pull off the old stuff. Pop the dust cap on the drums and undo the spindle nut. Give it a little jerk and the outer bearing comes loose. Pull the drum off. 3. The backing plate is help on by 4 bolts- 9/16s socket and wrench is all you will need. If you leave the spindle on the car for this, the back lower one will be a bit of a pain- ratchet wrench comes in handy.
4. Remove backing plate and pull of spindle. Either cut or use ( 5/8-9/16) wrench to loosen brake line. Remove brake line as well from hard line connection.
5. I cleaned my spindles.... 30 yrs of road grime just doesn't seem right to put next to spiffy new brakes. Spindle comes off with 7/8 and 3/4 wrench/sockets. The smaller tierod end/pitman arm puller at parts stores works awesome! Reinstall
6. Bolt anchor plate to the spindle. 9/16 socket at 1/4" allen socket are needed. Caliper mounts to the rear with dished holes facing out. Torque the nuts in the back to 35ftlbs.
7. Install the hub. It comes already greased, I just put in a little bit extra cause, well, i wanted too. Tighten the spindle nut to 10ftlbs, loosen, then tighten again. Secure with castle thing and cotter pin. Oh yeah, dust cap too... I really hate putting those things on. What a PITA
8. Slide on rotor and secure with lugnuts. Slide on caliper with bleeder screw facing up. Tighten mounting bolts to 85ftlbs (5/8 socket)
9. Attach adapter fitting to brake line and secure with retainer clip. Best hose routing I found was caliper fitting going up along the body of the caliper and routing toward the back and bending forward into the preiously applied fitting. (3/8 and 7/16 wrenchs... banjo bolt 9/16)

Right now thats as far as I've gotten, on the MC install now. Will post more later.

The Swede

 

[streetgrande69]

Looks like a scene from my drive way a few months ago.....................
Good job, you'll love them!

 

[allcarfan]

those front and rear kits total run about $3500?

 

[streetgrande69]

i got all the options.....stusd, zinc wash, slotted and drilled for under 2 grand........4 wheel discs, m/c and valve, plus parking cables

 

[ssppiitt]

I just spoke to Baer yesterday and for the front 13" Disc kit it is just under $1K. I would assume the rear is cheaper but I already have discs in the back so I did not ask.

 

[allcarfan]

under 2Gs huh?

hmmmm. I guess they can always be added later.

 

[Billgear]

I have a Baer kit to put on myself (I look at the parts in the boxes almost everyday ). Nice write up on the install. When is the mastercylinder install part coming?

 

[65straightsick]

I think I will get some junkyard discs to setup until I can get a real kit. Are you going to do power assisted? If so I would really like to read about that....BTW...looks very nice.

 

[65straightsick]

BTW....was the shoe in the pic with the wheels on your secret to getting them to "FIT" correctly...haha

 

[6Stang7]

....and I thought that my drums that I painted looked good.
That looks sooooo good that I makes me want to buy the kit right now. How much was it btw?

 

[bnickel]

that's damn coll swede, one of these days i will mine with something like that as well, but i think i'm going to do a junkyard setup on mine with 12" rotors and pbr calipers

 

[Swede958]

THEY WORK!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

I got my Baers on all the way!!!! Oh wow do they stop sooooo much better than the old drums!

And booster? Booster? I noneed no stinkin' boosta!!?? I'll post pics when I can of the completed install and the MC that everyone asked for.

The Swede

 

[Billgear]

Sweeet, I need to get on the ball and get my kit installed..

 

[At1Maverick69]

That looks so awesome! so how much did that kit cost ya? how about the wheels ? What size and how much did u get it for? and where

 

[Swede958]

Ok, just got back from work, so no pics right now.. but here's a bedtime story for you all.

The kit went together pretty well, it was the car itself that gave me the most problems. I finished up the wheel assemblies and set to work on the MC. Well, the distribution valve knew it was heading for the trade and/or trash bin so it didn't wanna come off. SOOO, in true Swedish fashion- I cut it off with a dremel. After that I reached in and pulled out the old MC and tried to reflare the lines on the car. Bear in mind the car is about 2' off the ground itself and I'm on a toolbox leaning into the back corner of my engine bay with the hood still on- not very amusing.

SO I get the MC on, mock up the lines, make them, and link everything together. Next I went to the back to get ready to bleed the brakes, but the wheel cylinder won't give up the bleeder screw. FIne, doing it the hard but semi-intelligent way, I decide to just rebuild the brakes so I have fresh stuff to complement the new fronts. WEll I get to the driver side and realize there is crap all in the brake assembly... yup, axle bearing. So i pull the axle, get a new bearing, have it put on and put everything back together.

Bleeding time! My dad and bleed the lines and I step in to test the pedal. It's fine.. fine.. fine.. then floors itself. We look around for a while and dad says.. "Hey, the line to the back is leaking". That's right, after all of that the flare for the back line is bad. So I have to pull it off the MC, on hook most of it from the car on back to get enough line to play with. Cut and reflare... finally I get it right!

So I took it out for a test drive and what a difference, the pedal has never been so high or had so much actual stopping power behind it. It feels so good. I can't wait till the rotors are seasoned and i can actually bed the pads.

The Swede

 

[slackr]

Ok, just got back from work, so no pics right now.. but here's a bedtime story for you all.

awwww...... a happy ending after all....
now i can have sweet dreams with little mustangs running around with their new baer brake systems stopping on a dime... all comfy and cozy like...

on a serious note, good job! i think i want something similar for mine...
you say that it stops really well even w/o a booster, huh?
i'm sure the difference would be dramatic just going from all drums, but if it's THAT good, i may consider not converting to power.... (spending lotsa money is bad)

thanks for the write up and info!

nighty night

clint