BAHHHH Set back... Head bolt issue

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
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Burlington, NJ
Well so i went to the library with my girlfriend today and was browsing the shelf and picked up an old hot rod mag only to find a whole article on my heads!!!:nice:

ONLY TO FIND!

The heads used 351W style 1/2'' bolt holes and my stomach sank... I used the 7/16'' 302 style headbolts when i put this thing together... the outside bolts had a washer that went under them however the insides did not.


BAHHHHHH so what do i do now???

Can i pull out one bolt at a time and put in the "spacers" and save the head gaskets???

OR am i screwed and the heads need to come off.:mad:
 
You can do it one at a time and bring them back to spec when you're done. Afterward, go over each bolt in the proper sequence and make sure they're all at the correct spec and rest assured that you'll be just fine.
 
Found an old pic of the heads fresh from the machine shop and they had the spacers in them :rolleyes: :rlaugh:
DSCF2324.webp


I went out and looked but now i have a different problem...

I noticed some green coolant around one headbolt :nonono:

I might of pulled that one out at one time to lift the motor or something i dont know :shrug:

Do i need a new gasket... or will a re-torque work fine?

Anyone have a similar issue?

DSCF1263.webp
 
Almost all aftermarket heads are designed for 1/2" headbolts. As long as you have a washer on them, you are fine. You can probably get away without changing the head gaskets if you do them one at a time. Just take it out, clean it up, and reapply new thread sealant.

Kurt
 
Almost all aftermarket heads are designed for 1/2" headbolts. As long as you have a washer on them, you are fine. You can probably get away without changing the head gaskets if you do them one at a time. Just take it out, clean it up, and reapply new thread sealant.

Kurt

Kurt. does it look like the washers or spacers are in the heads in that pic. I assume i left them in. The bottom ones were in and i dont have any sitting around the garage. (just making sure im not seeing ****)

Ill pull out that bolt and clean it off and apply thread sealant... dont think i applied any in the first place. but its only the one bolt and i can get to it with the headers on :nice:

just use black rtv or something?
 
You need to put PTFE/teflon sealant on the threads. It is white stuff, like jizz white. It comes in a small tube about the same size as a small tube of loctite. It's available at any autoparts store. If you have a leak, it's because you didn't put teflon on the bolts, not because it is 7/16' instead of 1/2". You can also get it in a big jar with a brush. Kind of like gasket tack. Those bolts go down into the water jacket, and if not properly sealed, always leak coolant. I always use head studs instead of bolts. Not only because they are stronger, but because you can put teflon on the bottom for a good seal, and moly lube on the nut for dead on balls torque accuracy.

Kurt
 
You need to put PTFE/teflon sealant on the threads. It is white stuff, like jizz white. It comes in a small tube about the same size as a small tube of loctite. It's available at any autoparts store. If you have a leak, it's because you didn't put teflon on the bolts, not because it is 7/16' instead of 1/2". You can also get it in a big jar with a brush. Kind of like gasket tack. Those bolts go down into the water jacket, and if not properly sealed, always leak coolant. I always use head studs instead of bolts. Not only because they are stronger, but because you can put teflon on the bottom for a good seal, and moly lube on the nut for dead on balls torque accuracy.

Kurt

Already bought it. I know that the threads in all 302 blocks are 7/16'' i was just concerned about the spacers.

Thanks!
 
Locktite liquid thread sealer #30534? comes in a 4 oz. bottle with applicator brush, this is what I have used for years without any failures as long as every thing is clean and oil free. Outer headbolts only on sbf's and every headbolt on Chevy's. You'll need to lower the level of coolant a lot if you are going to attempt to reseal headbolts/studs in the car. fasteners and threads must be clean and dry, use brake clean and swab? Do one at time (outers only) then re tourque to sequence..good luck
 
You don't NEED the reducer bushings because the dowels locate the heads to the block. They just help with keeping the bolt straight when installing and also so you don't have to run a big washer to cover the hole
 
why would you not use the correct hardware? saving the 40 bones on the bushings seems like a dumb idea to me. i would think you would want the head bolts to pull straight in when tightening them. without the bushings they can "walk" around inside the larger hole.

why build a high performance engine and skimp on the hardware???????