• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

BAHHHH Set back... Head bolt issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adam95GT
  • Start date Start date Sep 8, 2010

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
3
0
Burlington, NJ
Sep 8, 2010
#1
  • Sep 8, 2010
  • #1
Well so i went to the library with my girlfriend today and was browsing the shelf and picked up an old hot rod mag only to find a whole article on my heads!!!

ONLY TO FIND!

The heads used 351W style 1/2'' bolt holes and my stomach sank... I used the 7/16'' 302 style headbolts when i put this thing together... the outside bolts had a washer that went under them however the insides did not.


BAHHHHHH so what do i do now???

Can i pull out one bolt at a time and put in the "spacers" and save the head gaskets???

OR am i screwed and the heads need to come off.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Sep 8, 2010
#2
  • Sep 8, 2010
  • #2
You can do it one at a time and bring them back to spec when you're done. Afterward, go over each bolt in the proper sequence and make sure they're all at the correct spec and rest assured that you'll be just fine.
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
3
0
Burlington, NJ
Sep 8, 2010
#3
  • Sep 8, 2010
  • #3
Found an old pic of the heads fresh from the machine shop and they had the spacers in them


I went out and looked but now i have a different problem...

I noticed some green coolant around one headbolt

I might of pulled that one out at one time to lift the motor or something i dont know

Do i need a new gasket... or will a re-torque work fine?

Anyone have a similar issue?

 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Sep 8, 2010
#4
  • Sep 8, 2010
  • #4
Almost all aftermarket heads are designed for 1/2" headbolts. As long as you have a washer on them, you are fine. You can probably get away without changing the head gaskets if you do them one at a time. Just take it out, clean it up, and reapply new thread sealant.

Kurt
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
3
0
Burlington, NJ
Sep 8, 2010
#5
  • Sep 8, 2010
  • #5
revhead347 said:
Almost all aftermarket heads are designed for 1/2" headbolts. As long as you have a washer on them, you are fine. You can probably get away without changing the head gaskets if you do them one at a time. Just take it out, clean it up, and reapply new thread sealant.

Kurt
Click to expand...

Kurt. does it look like the washers or spacers are in the heads in that pic. I assume i left them in. The bottom ones were in and i dont have any sitting around the garage. (just making sure im not seeing ****)

Ill pull out that bolt and clean it off and apply thread sealant... dont think i applied any in the first place. but its only the one bolt and i can get to it with the headers on

just use black rtv or something?
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
3
0
Burlington, NJ
Sep 10, 2010
#6
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #6
ttt
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
9
98
Bethesda, MD
Sep 10, 2010
#7
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #7
the thread sealant that was on the headbolts in my 302 was white. i cannot tell you more than that, only that it was white.
 

ProKiller

Founding Member
Apr 26, 2002
3,064
15
78
PA
Sep 10, 2010
#8
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #8
i can't remember the name of the stuff i used when i put mine on.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Sep 10, 2010
#9
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #9
You need to put PTFE/teflon sealant on the threads. It is white stuff, like jizz white. It comes in a small tube about the same size as a small tube of loctite. It's available at any autoparts store. If you have a leak, it's because you didn't put teflon on the bolts, not because it is 7/16' instead of 1/2". You can also get it in a big jar with a brush. Kind of like gasket tack. Those bolts go down into the water jacket, and if not properly sealed, always leak coolant. I always use head studs instead of bolts. Not only because they are stronger, but because you can put teflon on the bottom for a good seal, and moly lube on the nut for dead on balls torque accuracy.

Kurt
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
3
0
Burlington, NJ
Sep 10, 2010
#10
  • Sep 10, 2010
  • #10
revhead347 said:
You need to put PTFE/teflon sealant on the threads. It is white stuff, like jizz white. It comes in a small tube about the same size as a small tube of loctite. It's available at any autoparts store. If you have a leak, it's because you didn't put teflon on the bolts, not because it is 7/16' instead of 1/2". You can also get it in a big jar with a brush. Kind of like gasket tack. Those bolts go down into the water jacket, and if not properly sealed, always leak coolant. I always use head studs instead of bolts. Not only because they are stronger, but because you can put teflon on the bottom for a good seal, and moly lube on the nut for dead on balls torque accuracy.

Kurt
Click to expand...

Already bought it. I know that the threads in all 302 blocks are 7/16'' i was just concerned about the spacers.

Thanks!
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Sep 11, 2010
#11
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #11
I've never used spacers, and it was never an issue.

Kurt
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
3
0
Burlington, NJ
Sep 11, 2010
#12
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #12
revhead347 said:
I've never used spacers, and it was never an issue.

Kurt
Click to expand...

Were your heads drilled for a 351w though???
 

64post

Member
Apr 27, 2010
45
0
6
Sonoma Calif.
Sep 11, 2010
#13
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #13
Locktite liquid thread sealer #30534? comes in a 4 oz. bottle with applicator brush, this is what I have used for years without any failures as long as every thing is clean and oil free. Outer headbolts only on sbf's and every headbolt on Chevy's. You'll need to lower the level of coolant a lot if you are going to attempt to reseal headbolts/studs in the car. fasteners and threads must be clean and dry, use brake clean and swab? Do one at time (outers only) then re tourque to sequence..good luck
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Sep 11, 2010
#14
  • Sep 11, 2010
  • #14
Adam95GT said:
Were your heads drilled for a 351w though???
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, mine are drilled for 1/2" bolts.

Kurt
 

Last5.0

Active Member
Nov 9, 2003
404
1
26
Sep 12, 2010
#15
  • Sep 12, 2010
  • #15
You don't NEED the reducer bushings because the dowels locate the heads to the block. They just help with keeping the bolt straight when installing and also so you don't have to run a big washer to cover the hole
 

robo

Member
Jan 2, 2004
132
0
16
cleveland ohio
Sep 12, 2010
#16
  • Sep 12, 2010
  • #16
why would you not use the correct hardware? saving the 40 bones on the bushings seems like a dumb idea to me. i would think you would want the head bolts to pull straight in when tightening them. without the bushings they can "walk" around inside the larger hole.

why build a high performance engine and skimp on the hardware???????
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Sep 12, 2010
#17
  • Sep 12, 2010
  • #17
I've never heard of anyone using the hardware. It's superfluous. Never had it, and it wasn't ever an issue.

Kurt
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
3
0
Burlington, NJ
Sep 12, 2010
#18
  • Sep 12, 2010
  • #18
revhead347 said:
I've never heard of anyone using the hardware. It's superfluous. Never had it, and it wasn't ever an issue.

Kurt
Click to expand...

exceeding what is sufficient or necessary : extra
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

6
Hey all,I’m putting together a 302 for my 1968 Mustang and wanted to post the combo + some questions to make sure I’m not missing crucial
  • 68_Disgustang
  • Feb 22, 2026
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
701
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Yesterday at 9:06 AM
gray owl
G
S
5.0 Rebuild
  • smittys7up
  • Nov 29, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
8
Views
525
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Dec 20, 2025
Noobz347
For Sale Maximum Motorsports MMTR-2 Bumpsteer Kit - 1979 - 1993 Mustang
  • AeroCoupe
  • Apr 18, 2025
  • Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93)
Replies
4
Views
526
Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93) Apr 18, 2025
AeroCoupe
0
V6 to V8 Swap info
  • 02_2v_Curtis
  • Jan 11, 2026
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
587
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Jan 11, 2026
02_2v_Curtis
0
2
General engine ID for bolt on upgrades
  • 2stroke1971
  • Jun 20, 2024
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
6
Views
666
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jun 20, 2024
nickyb
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?