Ball joints and other questions

Aaron

20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Dec 5, 2003
94
35
38
Buffalo, NY
1st question: Are the lower control arm ball joints replaceable in my 87? I broke one while trying to do a 5 lug upgrade with SN95 parts (yea - the car is sitting for now until I figure out what to do) :(
Anyway - it looks like 50resto sells them, but my Haynes manual says they are not replaceable. Anybody know whether or not I can replace JUST the ball joint? If I can- are there any special tools needed?
2nd question: Is it a big deal if I don't re-fill the rear differential fluid right away? Obviously, I'm not driving the car as you can see from my 1st question. I had put the cover back on the rear differential and started on the front change-over while waiting for the seal to set up. When the fronts went seriously wrong, I got disgusted it and stopped. There is still some fluid back there. Nothing should seize up if it sits for a couple weeks....right?
 
AUBURN1111 said:
rear end should be fine so long as everything is coated with gear oil, you just dont want it to start rusting.

I thought so...there is still some oil left there...I figure I should be ok until I get everything fixed at once. Anybody got any ideas on the ball joints?
 
aaron11272 said:
1st question: Are the lower control arm ball joints replaceable in my 87? I broke one while trying to do a 5 lug upgrade with SN95 parts (yea - the car is sitting for now until I figure out what to do) :(
Anyway - it looks like 50resto sells them, but my Haynes manual says they are not replaceable. Anybody know whether or not I can replace JUST the ball joint? If I can- are there any special tools needed?
2nd question: Is it a big deal if I don't re-fill the rear differential fluid right away? Obviously, I'm not driving the car as you can see from my 1st question. I had put the cover back on the rear differential and started on the front change-over while waiting for the seal to set up. When the fronts went seriously wrong, I got disgusted it and stopped. There is still some fluid back there. Nothing should seize up if it sits for a couple weeks....right?
Yes the bj's are replacable and you need a bj press to properly install the new ones. :nice:
 
88POSLX said:
Check my sig, I did a write up when I did my balljoints.
Yea - awsome write up. Explains it perfectly. Guess I don't have to take it to a shop after all. I really didn't want to mess with replacing the whole control arm and REALLY didn't want to mess with spring removal.
OK - One more question on my 5 lug upgrade. The main reason I think I broke the ball joint was because of those stupid washers I had to put on before I could put the castle nut back on. I kept tightening it and taking it back off again because the washers were too close to the bottom of the strut. It would only let me install the top bolt on the strut. The bottom bolt would not line up because the bottom of the strut kept hitting the washers. I used standard sized 5/8" washers. I know there are 1000's out there who did this upgrade without a problem. Am I supposed to shave the washers down on the outside or buy smaller washers and open the insides more...What's up with this???
 
@%$# - I just realized where I went wrong. I re-checked every write up I saw online and I found my problem. The 5/8" washers have to be 1.5" outside diameter. The ones I bought were 1.75" That little bit is what was preventine me to align the strut up again :bang:
Well at least I now know what went wrong.
 
Shaker brings up a good point - new loaded arms. the boss that the ball joint rides in can enlarge - some aftermarket ball joints are a smidge bigger O.D. to accomodate this. if doing bushings and ball joints, those loaded arms are a pretty nice lookin deal, IMHO.