Battery & cel light on no key!

Ok now I have a news problem! I changed my fuel injectors and was going to test my car so I connected back the neg battery terminal and I heard my fuel pump prime looked at gauge it had gas and looked in the car and see the cel and battery light on without the key in the ignition! All I did was change fuel injectors and opened up the salt pepper shakers and spread the bullet pins with a pin anyone please help I need my car for work on Monday and I have a doctors appointment with my pcp.Here is a pic of what I saw. I feel like I’m going crazy I’d rather be where I was the other day where my car was running extremely lean.And no I didn’t attempt to start it. As soon as I touch neg terminal to battery I see the seatbelt signal, check engine light and the battery symbol and I hear the pump kick on as if I turned the key forward without a key!O and I haven’t even messed with the gauge cluster . Disconnected the ecu and the battery light still stays on

I’m looking this up and see the alternator, in-line fuse/fuse link or ignition switch the alternator problems that people have don’t mention that they have a cel light in as well what could cause both lights to come on?

AeroCoupe said:

Bad ignition switch?

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Just changed it.check this out . I think you mentioned it to me to spread the pins in the 10 pin connectors.(correct me if I’m wrong) we’ll before you told me that I decided to swap out the black 10 pin connector on the main harness and I think I got the wires in the wrong spots! Didn’t realize then. As soon as I finished that I ran the compression test so I cranked it few times. Disconnect the battery and called it a day. Next day I swapped my fuel injectors and spread the pins like you mentioned. And now I was gonna start it up so I connected the battery back and now I’m in this situation! The car was on koeo without keys in ignition. I took off the upper and went back to that 10 pin and noticed wires were not matching to the injector harness side of black connector! Got confused cuz wires old and aa few are tan plus the mirroring effect when looking at both connectors can get confusing so I saw they were wrong and connected them back and Im sure they are correct spots now . But it still did it so Last night I bought a new ignition switch and starter relay and it’s still doing it! I disconnected injector harness still did it. I disconnected alternator battery light went away but still go cel. Disconnected ecu not battery but no cel. It’s as if it’s on cuz the fuel primes to the fuel gauge.I even hooked up code reader and it spit out codes again with no key. Anyone please where should I be looking? To me it’s like if I have a relay opened or switch opened. I also took off fuel relay and still it does it. I disconnected the key cylinder wire and still does it.So it started because I put the black 10 pin connector wires wrong did the compression test and now the car is in koeo the whole time .Areocoupe I don’t see any idiot other then me attempting to replace a 10 pin connector and did ot wrong to where they have this issue. I thought it be the ignition switch or starter soloind stuck open. Any ideas? Anyone please chime in I know I’ve been annoying with my other posts but this one is a really big problem no common at all not even sure a pro knows. It’s complex. Anyone before I call a ford tech tomorrow .The only way to stop the car from koeo is to disconnect the battery if not it will drain barttery who knows maybe a fire. Seems like a big short. I was thinking it might be the gauge cluster scince that’s where the lights comming from but it seems ignition related. Please anyone know what can cause car to be stuck in koeo without key in ignition?

Anyone ?

Damage to ecu or car wiring. When I disconnected the ecu the cel light went away/goes away but I still get the battery symbol. If I plug it in I get the cel battery and fir the first 2 seconds I Breifly get the seatbelt symbol exactly as if I put key in . I have no idea but I’m looking at this and I’m wondering where that 500 ohm resistor is. I know I’ve came across a 22 ohm resistor or something like that. I think it looks like a fuse link. Do you know where that 500 ohm resistor might be?

I removed spout still it does it. I disconnected coil, tfi,fuel harness from fp,wot relay and turn signal connector and it still does it. Trying to disconnect anything to see it go away but it’s still there. Anything in the gauge cluster might have to do with it? I figure scince that’s where the lights are at maybe but I know it had to be in ignition circuit. “Karthief” have you heard anything like this . Someone rewireng the 10 pin incorrectly and what happeneds if it does? Similar to this but I don’t think I have pats system. Mine is a 89 5.0 5speed original.

Also does it even though 10 pin connectors not connected to 10 pin fuel injector harness.O and even if I remove ecc relay still does it.

General karthief said:

Man, I don't know, I guess I would start a the solenoid, remove the wires from the post and connect the back one at a time till the light comes back, trace that circuit back to where it goes

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I’m gonna try that in a few minutes before I call tech. I also emailed fox mustang resto in North Carolina to see what they say. Calling outgrow big guns lol

Creomod said:

I’m gonna try that in a few minutes before I call tech. I also emailed fox mustang resto in North Carolina to see what they say. Calling outgrow big guns lol

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Ok I removed wire by wire. It went away with 2 wires but had no power when I removed both. One is the red battery cable the other is a yellow thick wire with fuse link on the end. When I removed either one I lost power completely. I kept both of those on and removed the others one by one. Seems like the problem is somewhere in these circuits.Is the yellow wire the one that goes to the 4 fuse links in this picture?Question? If one fuse link blew “open” does that mean that power is running straight thro? I assumed when a fuse link blows that power dosent go thro am I wrong? I’m thinking it could be the top one,18 gauge to ignition switch. Where can I get a replacement fuse link if it’s that one? Which one of these scimatics should I be looking at?

General karthief said:

If a fuse link overloads it blows, disconnects, looking at the diagram, it goes to the ignition switch, that switch is a 'sliding switch', pull it off the column and check sliding action, make sure pins are tight, no burnt marks or touching.

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Are you talking about the cylinder one where the key goes?

General karthief said:

Nothing to do with the key cylinder, sort of.
Turn the key, moves that and a rod that pushes the slide down on the column, the end where the wires plug in,

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I just picked up a set of snap ring pliers I’ll probably try it tonight

General karthief said:

Snap ring pliers?

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Brother I changed the rod and it’s still doing it. Changed starter soloind,the actuator rod and the ignition switch. Any other ideas? I’m getting desperate