MineralG2k2GT
New Member
I secured my two 10" JL's to the trunk with 4 pieces of velcro.....only problem is they work too well now and I cant get the damn box out 
Battery Relocation and Custom JL System Installed - PICS>>>
- Thread starter SilverStallion
- Start date
New Assistance Needed Please...
Anyone with knowledge of the MW article, and the Mach 460 headunit please advise. Does that unit put out a high level or low level signal through the data cable? I have everything wired correctly as per the diagram. I used the plastic snap connectors to tie into the wires as per this pic:
My problem is that the Signal Sense on my JL 500/1 amp is not totally working unless I crank up the volume in the car to 3/4 power, and even at that, my 10W7 is just barely moving. I know this sub should really be pumping, and I have also turned up the sensitivity on the amp, but I am cautious as to how high I go. I am not sure if I should have the input on the JL amp to High level or Low level.
Anyone with knowledge on this amp and/or the Mach 460 head unit, please advise. The stereo in the car still sounds great. The 10W7 is not up and running yet though.
Thanks in advance for any help that can be offered.
~Darren
Anyone with knowledge of the MW article, and the Mach 460 headunit please advise. Does that unit put out a high level or low level signal through the data cable? I have everything wired correctly as per the diagram. I used the plastic snap connectors to tie into the wires as per this pic:
My problem is that the Signal Sense on my JL 500/1 amp is not totally working unless I crank up the volume in the car to 3/4 power, and even at that, my 10W7 is just barely moving. I know this sub should really be pumping, and I have also turned up the sensitivity on the amp, but I am cautious as to how high I go. I am not sure if I should have the input on the JL amp to High level or Low level.
Anyone with knowledge on this amp and/or the Mach 460 head unit, please advise. The stereo in the car still sounds great. The 10W7 is not up and running yet though.
Thanks in advance for any help that can be offered.
~Darren
the fuse is their to protect the vehicle, NOT the amplifier. JL puts protection within their amplifiers to protect against any faults/failures within their units.
The fuse protects the rest of the car's electrical system from shorts on the amplifier power lead. With this in mind, a 100a fuse will work just as well as a 50a. Both will open with any short circuit on the power wire. 12 volts directly to ground will definitely blow a 100a fuse. In fact, if you drive the 500/1 hard enough, you can blow the 50a fuse on load if you do not use the correct type (AGU glass type, I believe). These are slow blow fuses that will allow for a brief musical peak that would normally blow the fuse. THe 500/1 is rated at 500w for 1.5-4 ohms. At 12 volts, this is roughly 40a of current. During a musical peak (bass hit, etc.), this amp could easily draw more than 50amps of current (600w). In other words, just make sure you use the correct fuse that JL recommends. If you have anything else connected to the power lead, you must use a fuse larger than 50amps too...
The fuse protects the rest of the car's electrical system from shorts on the amplifier power lead. With this in mind, a 100a fuse will work just as well as a 50a. Both will open with any short circuit on the power wire. 12 volts directly to ground will definitely blow a 100a fuse. In fact, if you drive the 500/1 hard enough, you can blow the 50a fuse on load if you do not use the correct type (AGU glass type, I believe). These are slow blow fuses that will allow for a brief musical peak that would normally blow the fuse. THe 500/1 is rated at 500w for 1.5-4 ohms. At 12 volts, this is roughly 40a of current. During a musical peak (bass hit, etc.), this amp could easily draw more than 50amps of current (600w). In other words, just make sure you use the correct fuse that JL recommends. If you have anything else connected to the power lead, you must use a fuse larger than 50amps too...
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