Been sittin' for a while

Mynnx · Jun 20, 2005

Hey guys! I just got hooked up with a 'Stang for $800 if I want it - It's the 1987 LX 5.0, and it's been on his driveway for the last 1.5-2 years.

Of course, I plan on changing the oil, plugs, pouring some gas and oil treatment, and changing the plugs if I need to...is there anything I've missed, before I drive it away from his house?

I plan on Seafoamming it and cleaning the TB when I get it home, among other things. Is it worth it to put a new cap and rotor on this 18-year-old distributor, or should I upgrade to a new ignition system (if so, what do you recommend?) I plan on using this car as my weekend, fun-driving car, with a few trips to the track occasionally.

This is my first Mustang experience; I just got rid of my 1980 Datsun 280ZX that was pretty damn fast and rusty. Help me out - get me started!

Thanks,
~Mynnx

ss93cobra · Jun 20, 2005

Sounds good! Don't forget a fuel filter as well or better yet get the tank drained before you fire it up if you can. Cap and rotor are a good idea as well. Regarding the ignition system, always a good idea but not needed to get her home safely. Check the condition of the trans fluid as well and the tires. Dry rot could cause a nasty blow-out. Good luck to you and welcome aboard!

hrspwrjunkie · Jun 20, 2005

Well, the distributor should be just fine, the ignitions in those cars are pretty stout, and unless you are running a power adder, will be just fine. The only thing you missed in the tune-up would be spark plug wires. Is it a manual or auto? If it's an auto, you'll need to perform a service to it (change fluid and filter). If it has been sitting a while, it may require some running before the transmission gets sufficient fluid flow to work or it may need seal softener. If it's a manual, it's a good idea to check and/or replace the fluid. At some point, check the rear end to see if the clutches in the differential still work (assuming it has a limited-slip differential). That can be seen on the rear end tag if it still has one by the code 3L08, 2L73 or 3L27 depending on the gearing (also, the number indicates the gearing if it is still stock and the tag hasn't been tampered with).

I would also run a full self-test diagnostic to make sure the engine is working correctly.

That would be the rough stuff I'd start with. You might consider swapping the rear end fluid and friction additive if the clutches are still in good shape.

HISSIN50 · Jun 20, 2005

Flush all fluids, go over it from bumper to bumper. then drive it to find what does not work so you can fix that too.

Good luck.

Mynnx · Jun 22, 2005

Dude, I feel like a failure as a mechanic. I drove about a half-hour to get to the car yesterday to do some stuff, and completely wasted my time.

After doing the distributor cap and rotor, the thing hesitates a second or two when putting on the gas before it actually revs...it just kind of stumbles. I think I broke a plug wire or something. I put it up on jacks to change the oil...two drain plugs? The one in the front was so convienently behind the sway bar, rusted half onto the oil pan. Forget fitting a socket in there, and I don't have a huge line wrench to go around it. I can't even change the oil in the damned thing! I took a few of the plugs out and then realized that I couldn't get half the ones on the passenger side because of hoses and the intake (hose clamp rusted shut). I didn't even try to do the fuel filter; I just surrendered for the day.

Here's where you make fun of me

srothfuss · Jun 22, 2005

I doubt that anyone would make fun of you... Like you said this is your first Mustang. They take some getting used to, that is for sure.

The one thing that I didn't see anyone mention specifically was the brake fluid. You should really flush that out before you get on a highway or road where you can get up to a decent speed. Don't want them brakes failing!

Don't forget to check the air filter box to make sure that a mouse hasn't made it a nice home.

As for the stumbling of the motor... Did you use the 5.0 HO firing order when you redid your plug wires? It's unique from the regular 302's.

TheUser · Jun 22, 2005

how far do you live from his house? If not very far, I'd throw some seafoam in the tank, check the tires for pressure/rot like mentioned and head out.

There are two drain plugs, but if you can get one out, that's better than nothing. And yes, make sure you use the HO firing order and not the regular 302 firing order. I'm sure you can search and find the HO firing order on stangnet.

You might be more comfortable working on it when you get home. Spray some PB blaster on the oil plug that's rusted. The plugs aren't a ton of fun, but they are possible w/ the right extentions. You can even buy a spark plug changing thing that's kinda like a spring inside of a thing and bendable to help you get to the plugs - they're at the auto-store.

Good Luck.

bluray · Jun 22, 2005

Mynnx said:
Dude, I feel like a failure as a mechanic. I drove about a half-hour to get to the car yesterday to do some stuff, and completely wasted my time.

After doing the distributor cap and rotor, the thing hesitates a second or two when putting on the gas before it actually revs...it just kind of stumbles. I think I broke a plug wire or something. I put it up on jacks to change the oil...two drain plugs? The one in the front was so convienently behind the sway bar, rusted half onto the oil pan. Forget fitting a socket in there, and I don't have a huge line wrench to go around it. I can't even change the oil in the damned thing! I took a few of the plugs out and then realized that I couldn't get half the ones on the passenger side because of hoses and the intake (hose clamp rusted shut). I didn't even try to do the fuel filter; I just surrendered for the day.

Here's where you make fun of me

We don't poke fun dude, we sympathize. And as for the rust, remember that Liquid Wrench is your friend unless it is rusted beyond repair, in which case you may have to pull the oil pan off and see what is up. You may have to call on Mr. Grinder or find a way to break it off

srothfuss · Jun 22, 2005

I found the firing orders for you...

Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

Make sure that you verify that you are using the correct one.

Mynnx · Jun 24, 2005

Alright, I'm back! I drove it back from the guy's house, taking all kinds of back roads because the tags died in '02. I noticed a muffled tapping sound that almost sounded like a misfire on one cylinder while I was driving, and after a distinct point, I had a loss of power...guess what I found out when I popped the hood at home?

The AC pulley never did like to engage fully when the car was on, but it was driveable. When I got home, turned out half of the belt (lengthwise) had broken off and was whipping the insulation right off the underside of the hood. There's a big 3"x9" place where the insulation is just ripped from the hood.

Luckily, nothing else AFAIK happened. I tried to fill it up and found a full tank; I hope he has done that in the past few days and not two years ago. How much of a hassle is pulling the oil pan?

About the firing order - I saw that on one of the stickers, and I have it right. I probably just killed one of the wires (which I didn't replace.) Should I go with MSD or Taylor or what for new ones?

Black 93 Fox · Jun 25, 2005

Mynnx said:
Alright, I'm back! I drove it back from the guy's house, taking all kinds of back roads because the tags died in '02. I noticed a muffled tapping sound that almost sounded like a misfire on one cylinder while I was driving, and after a distinct point, I had a loss of power...guess what I found out when I popped the hood at home?

The AC pulley never did like to engage fully when the car was on, but it was driveable. When I got home, turned out half of the belt (lengthwise) had broken off and was whipping the insulation right off the underside of the hood. There's a big 3"x9" place where the insulation is just ripped from the hood.

Luckily, nothing else AFAIK happened. I tried to fill it up and found a full tank; I hope he has done that in the past few days and not two years ago. How much of a hassle is pulling the oil pan?

About the firing order - I saw that on one of the stickers, and I have it right. I probably just killed one of the wires (which I didn't replace.) Should I go with MSD or Taylor or what for new ones?

You cant really take the oil pan off with out taking the motor out or atleast raising it enough to slide the oil pan around the k member.

Kerpal · Jun 25, 2005

When I bought my Stang it hadn't been driven more than around the block a few times in two years... and I had a 5+ hour drive home. It had expired tags too... I got pretty lucky getting home with no problems. It needed front tires and fresh coolant but it ran surprisingly well considering it was on literally the original plugs, wires, cap & rotor.

For new wires, I like my Taylor wires a lot, they're very well made and have a nice solid gip on the spark plug end. The FRPP wires are popular around here as well. Don't forget the dielectric grease.

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