Best cam for a stock motor....need a stright answer

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Well you didnt really say what you wanna do to the car, whether your gonna bolt up a set of heads or what you want it to run? I would go with a b cam if the only thing you plan to do with the motor is the cobra intake, if your gonna bolt on a set of heads and not get too crazy with the motor id go with an E
 
Ugh =( Thats not what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the bad news. So many people have told me that a cam is the best mod you can do to a stock motor...just never what type. Im on a low budget and dont have money to do everything at once...just a little at a time.

Future I plan on heads...distant future. I will have a cobra intake on it before any cams though. I will put on a CAI and TB before as well
 
A Cobra intake on a stock motor is no longer a stock motor.

A stock motor has a stock intake manifold.
In this case,the stock cam is the last thing to change,because the stock lower intake manifold is the biggest restriction,followed by the stock heads.

A Cobra intake will outflow the stock heads by quite a bit,(now the stock heads become a restriction).
So a Cobra intake on a stock engine...hmmm...probably best to upgrade the heads and add a better cam at the same time than add a better cam with the stock heads still in place with the cobra intake.(for a street car).
 
Must-Be-A-Stang said:
Just looking to find a cam to run with a cobra intake and give me a really good lope.... I searched and found nothing I could use.

Like others said, stock cam until you do heads. If you want throw on some 1.6 RRs on when you do the intake to free up some parasitic horsepower loss or upgrade the stock springs and put on some 1.7 RRs. Ideally you should match the cam to your combination, so when you decide on the combination and are about to buy the heads get the cam too. The custom cam is the best but the most expensive option. There are some great OTS cams, but you'll have to decide whether the car is a daily driver, weekend car, or full out drag car when choosing one. Take your time, and build the car you want the first time and you won't be sorry or buying things twice.
Tim
 
Don't change the stock cam until you have to...use the 1.7 RR. If you MUST have that lopey drive-in idle in a streetable,emissions legal cam the STEEDA#18 is the BEST BY far.. 220*@.050 Intake /226* @ .050 Exh .480" lift w/1.6 rockers 112* L/C :nice:
 
Grn92LX said:
The best cam for a stock engine is a cam custom grinded to maximize those poor flowing E7's. That cam is NOT a stock cam. Don't forget valve springs.
Not really the way to go IMO your thinking he should spend 300+ dollars on a cam that will then limit him should he decide to continue to mod his ride?? So what happens when later he picks up a set of heads, or an SC or Turbo..that custom cam now is no longer a combo match and becomes the weakest link. Stock cam is as stated very good for stock set up..a swap with stock heads is a ton of work for very few HP in return. Custom cams are fantastic but only worth the $$ when they can be introduced into a combination of parts where it can shine. Though I will say if your not going to swap out the heads or boost the car then perhaps you wont mind spending the money for the 15 or so HP that a good custom cam can definately find you.
 
The #18 idles like the b cam but has waaay more low and mid range torque than the b, plus it will pass the sniffer and it works with a blower. Steeda went 11.92/113 way back in '92 with one N/A too!.I should have put one in my car :(
 
Grn92LX said:
The best cam for a stock engine is a cam custom grinded to maximize those poor flowing E7's. That cam is NOT a stock cam. Don't forget valve springs.

Simply painfull isn't it?
No one believes this, yet it's the absolute truth.
Depending on what you want to do with the car, and how serious you are, a custom cam on an otherwise stock build with decent intake and headers can put you up in the 290rwhp/320rwtq range, and with a 5600rpm shift point.
 
hell i say get a B cam.

i am rebuilding my motor and its going to be stock and why not do a cam, will sound better and have some grunt up top.... Sure it may HURT my times at the track, but it should actually feel faster on the street.

sure some lowend may be lost with my b cam, but thats why i got 3.90s

might as well do it whiles it easy. much easier to go back and swap heads, quite a bit harder to go back and swap a cam....
 
Foxfan88 said:
hell i say get a B cam.

i am rebuilding my motor and its going to be stock and why not do a cam, will sound better and have some grunt up top.... Sure it may HURT my times at the track, but it should actually feel faster on the street.

sure some lowend may be lost with my b cam, but thats why i got 3.90s

might as well do it whiles it easy. much easier to go back and swap heads, quite a bit harder to go back and swap a cam....
Probably the worst advice given...put in a 20yr old design cam designed for a car with head/intake/exhaust/gears upgrads. The Bcam is FINE in a lightly modified car but with it's flat bottom end and best power made where stock heads start to struggle it's definately not the answer. Installing a cam is a bigger job..the computer can throw fits, driveability issues can occur, idle headaches...all this for a couple HP? For me I'd wait ( and did wait) untill the $$ situation allowed me to put a decent combination of parts together. No offence intended to young Foxfan, but your cam choice IMO is not idea for a stock running car.
 
aleborjas said:
hello i will go with stage 1 TFS or 266HR or 270HR from Comp cams.
For all that time/money to do the swap with so little return, I'd rather save a few dollars more for thumpers or GT40's and make some real increases, not just noise. As I just stated previously...the cams you mentioned are realy quite good, but designed with head/intake/exhaust/gear mods inplace. Thumpers heads combined with something as simple as a ford letter cam can get you 12 second passes..proven components for VERY reasonable $$. This route gets you the sound AND the power..all for only a couple (200) more than a custom cam.
 
I agree with DMAN.....forget about the sound unless you want your car slower than it is now. So many people want a cam just for the sound which is entirely the wrong way to go about it. You want your camshaft to match your engine (specifically heads/intake). If it doesn't match, all you're going to get is poor driveability, less power, and worse gas mileage.....for nothing but a "lumpy" sound. Seems kind of pointless to me.
 
maverick0716 said:
I agree with DMAN.....forget about the sound unless you want your car slower than it is now. So many people want a cam just for the sound which is entirely the wrong way to go about it. You want your camshaft to match your engine (specifically heads/intake). If it doesn't match, all you're going to get is poor driveability, less power, and worse gas mileage.....for nothing but a "lumpy" sound. Seems kind of pointless to me.

:nice: couldn't of said it better myself



guys who pick cams by how much there going to "lump":chair: :scratch: :crazy: :stick: :flame: :eek: :puke: :fuss: