Must-Be-A-Stang said:Just looking to find a cam to run with a cobra intake and give me a really good lope.... I searched and found nothing I could use.
Not really the way to go IMO your thinking he should spend 300+ dollars on a cam that will then limit him should he decide to continue to mod his ride?? So what happens when later he picks up a set of heads, or an SC or Turbo..that custom cam now is no longer a combo match and becomes the weakest link. Stock cam is as stated very good for stock set up..a swap with stock heads is a ton of work for very few HP in return. Custom cams are fantastic but only worth the $$ when they can be introduced into a combination of parts where it can shine. Though I will say if your not going to swap out the heads or boost the car then perhaps you wont mind spending the money for the 15 or so HP that a good custom cam can definately find you.Grn92LX said:The best cam for a stock engine is a cam custom grinded to maximize those poor flowing E7's. That cam is NOT a stock cam. Don't forget valve springs.
Grn92LX said:The best cam for a stock engine is a cam custom grinded to maximize those poor flowing E7's. That cam is NOT a stock cam. Don't forget valve springs.
Probably the worst advice given...put in a 20yr old design cam designed for a car with head/intake/exhaust/gears upgrads. The Bcam is FINE in a lightly modified car but with it's flat bottom end and best power made where stock heads start to struggle it's definately not the answer. Installing a cam is a bigger job..the computer can throw fits, driveability issues can occur, idle headaches...all this for a couple HP? For me I'd wait ( and did wait) untill the $$ situation allowed me to put a decent combination of parts together. No offence intended to young Foxfan, but your cam choice IMO is not idea for a stock running car.Foxfan88 said:hell i say get a B cam.
i am rebuilding my motor and its going to be stock and why not do a cam, will sound better and have some grunt up top.... Sure it may HURT my times at the track, but it should actually feel faster on the street.
sure some lowend may be lost with my b cam, but thats why i got 3.90s
might as well do it whiles it easy. much easier to go back and swap heads, quite a bit harder to go back and swap a cam....
For all that time/money to do the swap with so little return, I'd rather save a few dollars more for thumpers or GT40's and make some real increases, not just noise. As I just stated previously...the cams you mentioned are realy quite good, but designed with head/intake/exhaust/gear mods inplace. Thumpers heads combined with something as simple as a ford letter cam can get you 12 second passes..proven components for VERY reasonable $$. This route gets you the sound AND the power..all for only a couple (200) more than a custom cam.aleborjas said:hello i will go with stage 1 TFS or 266HR or 270HR from Comp cams.
maverick0716 said:I agree with DMAN.....forget about the sound unless you want your car slower than it is now. So many people want a cam just for the sound which is entirely the wrong way to go about it. You want your camshaft to match your engine (specifically heads/intake). If it doesn't match, all you're going to get is poor driveability, less power, and worse gas mileage.....for nothing but a "lumpy" sound. Seems kind of pointless to me.
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