Best Rear Suspension

DRock9 · Jan 1, 2007

I read an article on fordmuscle where they put upper/lower rear control arms and said it drastically improved their 60' times and it was much harder for them to break loose their tires but the price for what they did was like $600. I went to 50resto and MM has a "Rear Grip Kit" for $560 and it has more than the other kit minus the upper control arms, and I am figuring that since MM is the best company that this kit must be the one that will give me the best performance. What I am wondering is if this is true, and if so why don't they include the upper control arms in their package? Not neccessary? This is the kit I am talking about:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=MM-MMRG1 1&comp=LRS

In the picture, the long black "Torque Arm?" doesn't come with it right?

Also, I figure while I am making this, will I notice a dramatic improvement with handling if I install a strut tower brace and k-member brace from MM aswell? I read that they are pretty much neccessary for Verts but nothing about Hatch's. I am spraying this with a 150shot soon and I just want to be able to fully utilize the power I am going to be putting down.

Thanks for your help!

DRock9 · Jan 1, 2007

*checking sig just updated it*

smokin joe · Jan 1, 2007

You are correct, the kit you show eliminates the upper control arms. The panhard bar takes over the control of the side to side movement. The only way to really tell what comes with it is to contact them.I personally would buy all my suspension from manufacurer. The suspension you choose has mostly to do with what you plan on doing with the car.

FullAuto · Jan 1, 2007

IMO, Team Z or Wolfe makes the best rear suspension.

Maryland Stang · Jan 1, 2007

That's the wrong picture on the 50resto page. That picture is of the Torque Arm Package, Standard Duty $1112.54 plus shipping.

The rear grip kit is described correctly as having LCAs and a panhard bar. The panhard bar is more for corner carvers.

If you'e only interested in straight line performance on a budget then lowers and adjustable uppers are required. You'll also need a good set of shocks like CE's adjustables and perhaps a anti-roll bar. Of course sub frame connectors are required no matter which route you take.

The path to low and consistant 60 foots is not cheap.

tording · Jan 1, 2007

In my experience just put on a set of ET streets and call it a day. I had a twin turbo mustang for a while that made 600 RWHP and I was cutting 1.60 60' times coming out on like 1 psi of boost. I could have come out harder and cut 1.5's I know but I was afraid of breaking something else. I had all stock suspension besides some Eibach drag launch springs and the car hooked and went on ET streets. They didnt hook quite as well on the street but not bad at all.

DRock9 · Jan 1, 2007

Maryland Stang said:
That's the wrong picture on the 50resto page. That picture is of the Torque Arm Package, Standard Duty $1112.54 plus shipping.

The rear grip kit is described correctly as having LCAs and a panhard bar. The panhard bar is more for corner carvers.

If you'e only interested in straight line performance on a budget then lowers and adjustable uppers are required. You'll also need a good set of shocks like CE's adjustables and perhaps a anti-roll bar. Of course sub frame connectors are required no matter which route you take.

The path to low and consistant 60 foots is not cheap.

I want the best of both worlds, I don't want to have amazing straight line capabilities but suck in the corners. This is 90% a street car which sees a lot of driving and I just want the tires to stick when I gun it but also push harder through corners. How much am I lookin to spend?

Rick 91GT · Jan 1, 2007

FullAuto said:
IMO, Team Z or Wolfe makes the best rear suspension.

Gotta agree there if your looking for straight line performance, I use and support Dave @ Team Z his components are top notch and he can help you set it up properly after the sale.

347blown · Jan 1, 2007

HEY GUY ; i am stuck in the same position as u, for the track get ET street tries, i deflate then to 11 psi. Night and day difference, ( no inner tubes) .for the street i think any control arms will work, i wouldn't go with southside lowers or any that don't have any give, i think that will rip apart the body. I just threw in mega bite jr, and south side uppers, i still want more bite off the line thinking of going with shocks and springs next, maybe eibach darg springs and tokico shocks, not sure if u can use them with a convertable?

DRock9 · Jan 1, 2007

I would get ET Street tires but I don't go to the track often at all, haven't been yet, and they would suck in New England weather so thats a no no.

Can anyone else suggest something that is the best of both worlds?

smokin joe · Jan 1, 2007

For my car I would go with the MM setup, I like turning fast. They can probably set you up with something that would be the best of both worlds. You may also want to look at Griggs Racing too.

gaslight · Jan 1, 2007

I put the MM full length subs and pan hard bar on last winter. Both are great pieces and make the car more solid. The pan hard bar will get rid of the annoying fish tail action that these foxs are know for. With those 2 things I was getting better grip with the rear suspension on my street tires at the track. I also have had the MM lower control arms for quite a while. They do make some quality stuff.
As stated earlier that torque arm is not in that kit because that would add $400 to $600 more to the price. That is my next suspension piece that I want to get.
Anything you can do to stiffen the car and make the suspension do the work and not let the unibody flex the better the car will be. The strut tower brace and K member brace will def. help you out and make the car handle like it should without interference from the unibody flexing. I have the 4 point K member brace but can't fit a strut tower brace because of my turbo .
Do you have subframes yet? If not than I would do that first and make sure they are the full length ones. I'm soooo glad I put them on my car.

DRock9 · Jan 1, 2007

Im getting SFC's as my next mod then im doing the rear suspension. I'm just wondering, the panhard bar cant HURT my straight line traction can it?

Anyone know why the MM kit doesnt come with uppers?

Thanks!

bditty50 · Jan 1, 2007

Drock the MM kit doesn't come with uppers because you dont need them with a panhard setup. I have the MM panhard,torque arm, and control arms and love it. I can take turns at over a g but, you have to have the front suspension and good tires. It hooks very hard and rides incredibly. I would definitely recommend them. Their customer service is excellent.

DRock9 · Jan 1, 2007

Thanks a lot! Ill be going with that setup, whats the torque arm do?

Black Sun 5.0 · Jan 2, 2007

Does the panhard bar eliminate the upper control arm, or does it just make is not necessary to upgrade? I'm curious, because I'm resto'ing a '90 that has all stock components and I want to replace all the ratty, rusted items on the car.

Maryland Stang · Jan 2, 2007

Black Sun 5.0 said:
Does the panhard bar eliminate the upper control arm, or does it just make is not necessary to upgrade? I'm curious, because I'm resto'ing a '90 that has all stock components and I want to replace all the ratty, rusted items on the car.

The Panhard bar locates the rear end with regard to side to side in the car and prevents it from moving from side to side unpredictably. It neither replaces the UCAs or makes it necessary to replace them. It is used much more often in road racing and roundy-round (Nascar) than drag racing.

A pandhard bar is not usually used on the street.

If you're going to go through the trouble of installing a panhad bar (welding is often required) it is advisable to replace the UCAs and LCAs.

For the street I would just do the arms and not worry about more high tech suspension pieces unless you plan to seriously race the car.

Prime Lord · Jan 2, 2007

As far as the rear...LCA's & UCA's. A panhard bar would only really be necessary if you're in the twisties, but it could help w/ straight line stuff as well.

As far as the front braces, they're definately NOT just for verts. My old 89 GT saw GREAT benefits from both the K-Member and strut tower braces.

gaslight · Jan 4, 2007

Maryland Stang said:
A pandhard bar is not usually used on the street.

That is a bunch of crap. They are now used on the new stangs.
Its a great addition to the suspension. They work great on the street even if you are not into 'twisties'. Its a lot more fun driving around town.
Oh yeah...NO welding was required!

gaslight · Jan 4, 2007

Black Sun 5.0 said:
Does the panhard bar eliminate the upper control arm, or does it just make is not necessary to upgrade? I'm curious, because I'm resto'ing a '90 that has all stock components and I want to replace all the ratty, rusted items on the car.

you can only eliminate the uppers if you have a panhard rod and a torque arm. You don't have to upgrade the uppers at this point but the lowers would be great to upgrade no matter what you do.

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