big block swap

tangerine said:
yeah I see it isn't a practical. I am even in the process of putting a mitsubishi starion turbo motor in an 88 dodge ram 50. I am seeing where you are going with this I was just wondering if you was wanting the streetability of it.

Yeah, its all kool. for streetability, yes. This project probably won't be a hardcore street/strip setup, but nevertheless it will be above street performace just within the engine itself. Thats why i'm considering a lower duration cam, and a dual plane manifold with an 800cfm carb (edelbrock). I plan on mostly high performance street cruising and occationally "letting the thing go!"

When the rice burners are out buzz'n around and "feel" me go by from the exhaust with Cobra decals, black widow body kit, and see my block numbers tached on the hood, i could only imagine them thinking. . ."What the hell was that!?" :owned: (Mind you, I have nothing against people wanting to be fuel efficient but when you take a 2.0L and try to make it fast, thats just sad I mean really.)

Which reminds me, I will be running headers, any suggestions for exhaust? I won't get by with side pipes. LOL, though i'd love to see it attempted. I would like to run TRUE straight through duals, and find mufflers that will just calm the loudness without restricting the engine.
 
If I would do this swap, for sound control (which I would not want much) I would use stainless steel glasspacks with stainless steel wool packing. True 60's muscle car sound. That would be appropriate considering the set-up IMO. The other thing I would consider which would really grab attention would be to tub the 9 inch. This would be one cool car.
 
the 429 and 460 block are the same,why don't you offset grind the 460 crank rod journals to chev 2.2in, increase bore to 4.440 (6.185 rod) and have 514 cu in? Ran this setup in a pulling tractor(850 hp)cast crank and 2bolt block for years with no problems.even know of people putting them in motorhomes
 
"True 60's muscle car sound"

prsrizdgt, thats the sound i'm going for, I just don't want it loud enough to get pulled over by the police. Thats why i just need something to barely tame it.
 
blkhorse said:
the 429 and 460 block are the same,why don't you offset grind the 460 crank rod journals to chev 2.2in, increase bore to 4.440 (6.185 rod) and have 514 cu in? Ran this setup in a pulling tractor(850 hp)cast crank and 2bolt block for years with no problems.even know of people putting them in motorhomes
blkhorse, i have considered it. Though i'm looking at all options here based on obtaining a 429/460 block. Getting a rebuild kit for it, after market parts . . .etc. and also the cost of those 460 complete engines that have recently come out, I think they are about $5000. Most naturally, I will go with whatever setup will cost best based on availibilty.

Does anyone know of a great website/catalog order for Stang parts/blocks. . . etc.??
 
yup, been there too, though it is a great place for parts "hidding in people's back yards."

I did recently see a 460 that came out of a lincoln. Does anybody here know if there is any significant difference between a "car" 460 and a "truck" 460? say for example in the deck height or width? Or, is the parts on the block the only difference?
 
As an avid FE enthusiast I would advise against any type of Fe motor short of a 427 SOHC, 427 side oiler with medium riser heads or tunnel port. Those motors are very heavy and about ten times more costly than any other combination you could think of mainly because of the rarity of parts and the lack of people racing them anymore not to mention that until you get into some medium riser, tunnel port or SOHC heads everything else sucks ass.

Go with a 385 series engine backed by a C6 or C4 and you will be miles ahead of most FE combinations out there.
 
billyfe390 said:
Go with a 385 series engine backed by a C6 or C4 and you will be miles ahead of most FE combinations out there.

billyfe390,

Your advice is most appreciated! Infact, after researching on the net and looking into cost combinations and block history, the 385 series seems to be the best a winner at this point!! I have noticed more aftermarket parts support it. :nice:
 
the 460 in car and truck are the same,try to find earlier model,say 70's,they seem to hold up better. 429 and 460 are 385 series engines and can be found rather cheaply.the only draw back are the stock cyl. heads(exc scj).
 
Thanks blkhorse, I'll keep that in mind. I do plan on using different heads. I doubt I will use anything stock.

I thought about buying a mustang repair manual, but before I did, i'd like to check with you guys first. What suggestions would you all have for a good in-depth manual that covers EVERYTHING: body, wiring, mechanical. . .etc?

This is an example I found http://discountautorepairmanuals.co...e=darm&Product_Code=A36051-03&Category_Code=F