Aren't you referring to the bottom ten list different?Geez... What kind of crazy car are you putting these on? It looks... Different. Like top ten list different...
I don't even appreciate the effort
Now, I'm not gonna tell you how this story turns out,...
I got a slider you can lube..........Lube your sliders and the problem is solved. You should really learn a thing or two about cars, Mike.
NohowInourgay?
Man I love cobra brakes. Those are some funky looking rotor slots. Funky slots for a funky guy I guess!
I test drove the car, and for the first 15 mins or so,...I couldn't hear it. ( I also went very easy on stopping as well).
I get to looking at the box the rotors come in, and to my disgust I discover that even the 110.00 ea. Raybestos rotor have "Made in China" stamped on them.But they were "finished" in the U.S.A.
Whadya gonna do? I put them on.
I know, But I'll have some pretty orange squgglies behind my shiny new wheels now thoughUnless you plan on going to a road course and working the brakes hard, won't do much.
It may have to do with your improper pad break in procedure.
1: 6 to 10 moderate stops from 35 MPH down to 5 MPH, don't stop the car. Do them in quick succession. DO NOT LOCK UP THE BRAKES!
2: 2 to 3 hard stops from 45 MPH down to 5 MPH, again, don't stop the car and do them in quick succession. DO NOT LOCK UP THE BRAKES!
3: Park the car and let the brakes cool off for at least an hour. When you park the car do not keep your foot on the brake pedal any longer than required to park the car.
This will not work on old surfaced pads and rotors. The pads must be unglazed (new) and the rotors must be new or a fresh resurface.
For brakes to work optimally you need to initially transfer a slight amount of pad material to the rotor in a specific fashion.
Unless you plan on going to a road course and working the brakes hard, won't do much.
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