Thanks guys. That's what apparently ospho is. I won't be in a hurry. And I'll make sure that it's not oily or still wet even if I have to wait another week.
Black Jack: Working up to slicks
- Thread starter FastDriver
- Start date
Depending on the climate, ospho needs 24hrs or more to dry, then I hit the area with a scotch bright pad, vacuum the area, wipe down with some wax/grease remover or thinner, let that dry thoroughly, lite coat of etching primer then what ever color I have left over.
So I misspoke. You cannot apply an epoxy over an alkyd (typically what self etching primers are) so you need to look for a good enamel to put over the top of it.
www.krylon.com
www.rustoleum.com
I am not a painter by any means. We shoot a lot of paint at work and I have a fundamental knowledge of paint systems. When in doubt get @95steedamustang involved as I am sure he knows what a person can use aerosol wise for the cowl area.
automotive self etching primer
The Krylon® Automotive Self Etching Primer is the answer for all of your automotive projects. Use this primer for premium protection and learn more here.
www.krylon.com
Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Product Page
Rust-Oleum® Professional High Performance Enamel Spray provides superior coverage and hiding. Apply to metal, wood, concrete and masonry. Retains color well.
I am not a painter by any means. We shoot a lot of paint at work and I have a fundamental knowledge of paint systems. When in doubt get @95steedamustang involved as I am sure he knows what a person can use aerosol wise for the cowl area.
My experience with Ospho years ago was it needs to dry for a few days.. I had to have a boat trailer sandblasted a second time when I painted over " not quite dry" ospho... Needed to get my boat out of the reservoir as it was being drained for the winter and I was in a hurry.... LET IT DRY and it does a great job..
I didn't get to it, yesterday. Ospho sounds like a pain in the ass that requires scrubbing, multiple days, a high likelihood of screwing up without experience, & getting my hand in there to scrub/clean everything I need to use it on, which defeats the purpose of using chemicals, at all. Maybe that's good for my trailer's fully exposed hitch & frame, when I work on that, soon.
The Rustoleum "Rust Dissolver" gel I've got says to apply for 15-30 min on metal, rinse off, & let dry. Then, ready to prep/paint after an hour. I'll leave it out in the sun to bake for a while, then leave it in the dehumidified garage for another day.
I'm just going to hit it with that, let dry, add self-etching primer that I picked up yesterday, and then blast it with some flat black engine enamel I also picked up, and put the car back together. I don't like the idea of spraying water into seams that are less likely to thoroughly dry, but whatever... If that's wrong, then
it. Hopefully, it'll last until I go for a full paint job or sell. It'll probably still end up better than leaving it alone.
I think I've learned that other than a quick sand/spray, body work ain't my thing, and honestly, all I'm trying to do is protect the metal from getting worse.
The Rustoleum "Rust Dissolver" gel I've got says to apply for 15-30 min on metal, rinse off, & let dry. Then, ready to prep/paint after an hour. I'll leave it out in the sun to bake for a while, then leave it in the dehumidified garage for another day.
I'm just going to hit it with that, let dry, add self-etching primer that I picked up yesterday, and then blast it with some flat black engine enamel I also picked up, and put the car back together. I don't like the idea of spraying water into seams that are less likely to thoroughly dry, but whatever... If that's wrong, then
it. Hopefully, it'll last until I go for a full paint job or sell. It'll probably still end up better than leaving it alone.I think I've learned that other than a quick sand/spray, body work ain't my thing, and honestly, all I'm trying to do is protect the metal from getting worse.
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That will work, Ospho has been around a while and many products have been developed since, like the Rustoleum stuff you're gonna use, they all work when the directions are followed.
Clean, prime, and paint with whatever you like.
For areas I'm not going to see? Flat black rust converting primer, paint, then this 2K top coat:
www.eastwood.com
You can get this stuff on Amazon. I posted that link so you could see what options they have.
For areas I'm not going to see? Flat black rust converting primer, paint, then this 2K top coat:
Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray High-Gloss Satin and Matte Clear
Two Component Technology in a Can for the Best Appearance and Durability
www.eastwood.com
You can get this stuff on Amazon. I posted that link so you could see what options they have.
Eastwood offers a flexible tube with a tip that has a wider pattern, plugs into the Eastwood spray paint can.. Use it for getting into cracks and crevices, inside of tubes...... click on Rust products on their website..
I'll look at the parts store on the way home, but getting started today makes anything I have to order virtually a no-go, at this point.
I'm off to a great start tonight. I prepped the cowl, taped off it's surroundings, Shook Up the self etching primer, and when I popped the top, it snapped the nozzle and sprayed primer all over the lower corner of the windshield in front of the driver the fender and the door. I covered it and got it into a trash can as quick as I could. Having no idea what the f*** to do, I hit the paint with alcohol, mineral spirits, couple of different types of pads in a frantic effort to get it off before it set. It worked okay, but not well.
Anyways, too tired to be upset. I'm on my way to try to find some more primer and start again. I have never in my life snapped a nozzle off of a can just by taking its top off, and especially while standing over a car. I think it's a sure sign from a higher power and I'm not meant to do body work.
happens. All right, that's my vent session. It's time to get on to whatever's next...
Anyways, too tired to be upset. I'm on my way to try to find some more primer and start again. I have never in my life snapped a nozzle off of a can just by taking its top off, and especially while standing over a car. I think it's a sure sign from a higher power and I'm not meant to do body work.
happens. All right, that's my vent session. It's time to get on to whatever's next...
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I have done the same thing,albeit not all over a car. Yeesh.I'm off to a great start tonight. I prepped the cowl, taped off it's surroundings, Shook Up the self etching primer, and when I popped the top, it snapped the nozzle and sprayed primer all over the lower corner of the windshield in front of the driver the fender and the door. I covered it and got it into a trash can as quick as I could. Having no idea what the f*** to do, I hit the paint with alcohol, mineral spirits, couple of different types of pads in a frantic effort to get it off before it's set. It worked okay, but not perfect.
Anyways, too tired for my spirits to be down. I'm on my way to try to find some more primer and start over. I have never in my life snapped a nozzle off of a can just by taking its top off. I think it's a sure sign from a higher power and I'm not meant to do body work.
Got a few coats of engine bay primer in there, and then 2 coats of black engine enamel on top. Learned something with that stuff, too. The Raptor flat black hated being inverted and sprayed poorly, running quickly and clogging, while trying to get to the nooks and crannies. Both the Rustoleum primer & paint cans allowed spraying from any angle, which was MUCH nicer, and easier to apply evenly. I'm a tad worried that mixing paints from the flat raptor to the gloss rustoleum might cause a reaction, but we'll know in the morning.
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Alright... solved one problem & created another. It's not pretty, but at least the cowl rust is in check:
Onto the next...
Planning to let it dry a day, get the wipers, motor & cowl panel back together & give it a bath. I'll see if the primer will come off using the 15* nozzle at a high angle without tearing up the paint, and if that doesn't work, I bought some sandpaper up to 5k grit to get it done.
Onto the next...
Planning to let it dry a day, get the wipers, motor & cowl panel back together & give it a bath. I'll see if the primer will come off using the 15* nozzle at a high angle without tearing up the paint, and if that doesn't work, I bought some sandpaper up to 5k grit to get it done.
85GTStangGuy
5 Year Member
The saga never ends... The backside nut for the metal backing behind the knee bolster under the steering wheel broke loose, because it cross-threaded... I've fought this bolt before. Knew it would happen eventually. I had to cut the whole metal plate out. Time to get another one & hopefully find a convenient permanent way to bolt it in.
Should pick up the new knee bolster tomorrow for $30. It's been 3 weeks to a month... I've restored the A/C, replaced the brake booster, knocked down the rust in the cowl, and corrected the driveshaft from contacting the floorboard.
I'm kinda burned out on working on the car again. Just too many things, lately. I still need to get the E'brake working again, after snapping the cable. After that, I'd like to just drive it for a while.
I'm going to adjust focus in my next effort: new twin-disc for grover, before foxtoberfest.
I'm kinda burned out on working on the car again. Just too many things, lately. I still need to get the E'brake working again, after snapping the cable. After that, I'd like to just drive it for a while.
I'm going to adjust focus in my next effort: new twin-disc for grover, before foxtoberfest.
