Good Idea with the boards. I will remember that. Thanks for the reply!My car is lowered as well and when I need to jack it up, I drive up on a 2x10 (about 12" long). Jack fits great then.
As far as bleeding, it should be good. When I did my swap to brembos I found that if I just opened the bleed screw on the caliper and let it gravity bleed, virtually all the air came out. It was a very quick bleed after that - one or two cycles and I was done.
Yeah , I guess next time I get it on the concrete I will bleed all 4. If for no other reason to get new fluid in the system. My right front locked completely . Would just spin the rear tires when trying to move it. It only sat for a couple of days at a time. I could tell it was happening before it totally locked up. My car is a manual so when I would back up and use the clutch to change gears the car would immediately stop rolling. I imagine it was not that great for the clutch trying to get the car to move with the brake stuck.99-04 front PBR calipers are prone to seizing if the car sits for a period of time with contaminated fluid. This story has played out more times than I can count given that many of those cars from that era are now 20+ years old and might still have original fluid in the system.
Really imperative to keep fresh fluid in the system on those cars. I bleed the brakes on all my cars every 2 years.
The PBR caliper pistons are the ones I was thinking about with corrosion and sticking. Do you know if Raybestos or someone has come up with a better material for rebuilds?99-04 front PBR calipers are prone to seizing if the car sits for a period of time with contaminated fluid. This story has played out more times than I can count given that many of those cars from that era are now 20+ years old and might still have original fluid in the system.
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Really imperative to keep fresh fluid in the system on those cars. I bleed the brakes on all my cars every 2 years.
The PBR caliper pistons are the ones I was thinking about with corrosion and sticking. Do you know if Raybestos or someone has come up with a better material for rebuilds?
Phenolic is an insulator. It should be good at keeping the heat from the pad and caliper away from the fluid.The phenolic pistons work fine
They just crack and break
The phenolic are lighter and dissipate heat better
However the F250 dual piston phenolics had so much trouble...
You are right dissipate is the wrong word. F250's were melting the caliper rubber real bad. Ford swapped to phenolic to no avail. Later added aluminum and fiber insulators thru a recall. Later still went back to conventional metal pistons. Most of the fleet went back to phenolic in the mid 90's Blame CAFE and the need to save weightPhenolic is an insulator. It should be good at keeping the heat from the pad and caliper away from the fluid.
It would be easy to machine Delrin pistons. I wonder if the melting point of it or another high density polymer is high enough for brakes? It would be stronger and less brittle.
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