Fox Brake booster keeps failing.

93CalypsoConvert

Active Member
Nov 26, 2020
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Virginia
So I've had brake issues the entire time I've owned this car. Now, I can't seem to find a brake booster that will actually work.

Here is what is happening. Its weird, bear with me:

- The VERY FIRST time I press the brake pedal after the car is completely cooled off, the brakes work great. After that, that the performance is crappy.
- After the engine (and engine bay) is hot from driving, the brake pedal sticks. I must use my foot to draw the pedal back to the top. The hotter it is under the hood, the worse this gets.
This happens every time I drive and is not intermittent.

NOW, the worst part is, this has happened to the original and TWO NEW BOOSTERS. They work great for about a week, then they begin to stick. Like I said this has happened with two brand new brake boosters. I have verified multiple different times that there is NO fluid leaking from the back of the master cylinder and the pedal pivot is free.

I know its the booster because I can unbolt the master cylinder and the brake pedal will still be stuck.

I don't think its a vacuum issue either. I installed an auxiliary vacuum pump for brakes with no difference.

I am at a total loss here.
 
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I know its the booster because I can unbolt the master cylinder and the brake pedal will still be stuck.

I'm not sure what this means. Does this mean that when you separate the MC from the booster that the pedal is [still] stuck?

If so, wouldn't that indicate a problem with the MC?

For :poo:s and grins, my first guess is that the stroke of the MC is too long and it's jamming it into the MC.
 
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How long have you owned the car? Since you've had the issue since you've owned it sounds like the P.O monkeyed around with the master cylinder etc and it hasn't been the same since, correct me if I'm wrong, aren't these Master cylinders pushrods adjustable? Could it be too long or short or what not? It's definitely a strange problem.

Just wanted to add that I reread your post and you say it gets stuck even with the master cylinder off,I believe the brake linkage has some plastic spacer to keep everything smooth, maybe it's gone?
 
Next time it gets stuck loosen the nuts for the booster and see if anything happens. I suspect the linkage between the peddle and the booster or the peddle swing getting in a bind or catching on something.
Don't recall, stick or auto?
 
Can you provide some details on the car (year etc.) and the brake system (stock MC, stock booster, etc.). Was the car converted from an AOD to a T5 or AOD to T5? Have there been any modifications to the brake system like a 3 to 2 conversion, removing the stock combination (proportioning) valve, etc.?

The above information helps with narrow the focus down. For instance if you told me the car has always had the same type of transmission (manual or auto) I would ask if you have you inspected the brake pedal where it pivots in the assembly that hold the pedal(s). This is due there are bushings in there and if they are no longer there and the rod is metal to metal on the housing then the holes could be oblonged and causing bind.

That was just one example. We need more info to narrow this down.
 
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The hot and cold issue could be a expanding and contracting situation, I had a vacuum leak once that was awful when the car was cold and nearly gone when hot for obvious metallurgical reasons.

Your gonna have to play with it till you figure it out, maybe get under the dash while a Friend moves the pedal and all you attention is on the linkage and see if you can see anything strange happening.

I have a extra auto pedal set at home,I know it's not a standard but its still the same brake setup for the most part ,when I get home from work I'll look at it and see if I can see anything that might aid your problem.
 
Good idea. I'll loosen them up and see what happens.

1993, always been a manual. Stock brakes. Drums have been rebuilt, rubber lines replaced, original proportioning valve, replaced master and booster, and resurfaced rotors.

I think the pedal pivot is metal on metal. I'll have to check. I don't recall a bushing

Car has 42k actual miles.
 
I loosened the bolts. No effect. Under the dash, you can completely disconnect the brake lever from the booster and the booster still sticks (MC off). This concludes that it must be the booster... Again.

The MC shouldn't be responsible for returning the booster, correct? Every booster I've seen goes back by itself.

Is it possible I'm just that unlucky with boosters??