Brake help

[arens]

I have an 88 vert. I just installed stainless front brake lines and new 86 SVO calipers/pads. The brakes worked fine but it was time for a pad change and the original rubber lines had chunks missing and you could see the white core.

Now to the problem. I now have no resistance on the brake pedal at all. Straight to the floor with no problems. I have since installed a new stock master cylinder, following all bench bleed and install instructions, and bled all 4 corners starting in the rear. I even went back to the stock calipers and I still have the same problem. I can't go back to the stock lines, they are that bad.

I have checked all of my front connections again and don't see anything loose or leaking.

Any ideas on the pedal going to the floor with near zero resistance? Could the proportioning valve right below the master cylinder be the problem? Should I get a new stock piece? SSBC adjustable proportioning valves just connect rear in to rear out correct? Could I get bypass fittings for the front passenger and use the aftermarket adjustable in the stock location?

Thanks

 

[aar0s]

are you sure that you have all the air out of the lines?
my stock prop valve let go and it took me a while to realize where the fluid was going. Kinda hard to see the fluid shoot out of the valve while in the drivers seat.
Id get a buddy and bleed the pi$$ out of the lines. make sure that the MC dont run dry.
BTW i did the max motorsport brake upgrade on my 88 and the new lines make a great difference.

 

[jrichker]

Garden Sprayer Pressure Bake Bleeder

1 each pump type garden sprayer, 1 - 1 ½ gallon capacity (size doesn’t matter much, it just has to be cheap and small enough to be easy to work with)
6-10 feet 3/8” clear plastic tubing
1 each ¼” brass pipe tee
1 each ¼” pipe to 3/8: hose adapter
1 each pressure gauge 0-60 PSI or so – all you’ll ever need is 5- 10 PSI, so the gauge range doesn’t have to be high.
1 each large rubber stopper – this is the hard part to find. It may take some searching to find one that is a snug push fit to the inside of the filler port on the master cylinder. You can use silicone rubber to seal a brass fitting to an old master cylinder cap, but they tend to leak too much.
Home Depot or Lowes has some ¼” brass pipe stock that is continuously threaded in the electric lamp repair department, along with the brass nuts that go with it. This is better than a pipe nipple, since the nuts can be used to secure the pipe in the cap or stopper.
OR if you can’t find the threaded pipe stock,
1 each ¼” nipple, 1 ½”- 2” long

The rubber stopper needs a hole drilled in it for the ¼” pipe nipple or threaded pipe stock. After you drill the hole, use some silicone gasket sealer to seal the pipe nipple as you push it into the rubber stopper. If you used the threaded pipe stock, use the nuts to secure the stock into the stopper.

If you can’t find a suitable rubber stopper, an old master cylinder cap can be used. Drill a ½” hole in the center for the pipe fitting. Cut the brass pipe stock to about 1”- 1 ½” long, the exact length isn’t too important. Push it through the hole in the master cylinder cap and thread one nut on top of the pipe stock where it sticks though the cap. Put another nut on the other side of the cap to lock the pipe stock in place. Apply some silicone rubber gasket sealer to both sides and when it is dry, screw the ¼” pipe that sticks out of the top of the cap into the tee.

Remove the sprayer hose and wand from the garden sprayer. You may find it easier just to cut the sprayer hose off short and connect it to the 3/8” plastic tubing. The idea is that the 3/8” tubing connects to the pickup tube inside the sprayer in a reliable, leak proof fashion. Another alternative is to remove the spray nozzle from the end of the spray wand and connect the 3/8” tubing to the wand. This leaves the hand valve in place and may be useful to start/stop the flow of brake fluid.

The 3/8” plastic tubing connects to the pipe tee using a push on hose barb type adapter. The pipe tee has one port for the gauge, one for the 3/8” hose and the other to connect to the rubber stopper or master cylinder cap that you modified.

Fill the pump sprayer with a quart of brake fluid. Set the garden sprayer on the ground and screw the pump handle down tight, and pump until brake fluid fills the plastic tubing. Then put the modified stopper or master cylinder cap on the master cylinder and pump slowly to make sure that nothing leaks or pops loose. No leaks, continue pumping until you get 5-10 PSI. Put a 6”-12” length of clear plastic tubing on the bleeder ports. Then open the bleeder ports on the wheel cylinders one at a time and bleed until the bubbles are gone. I use a 2 liter soda bottle with a coat hanger to catch the fluid . DO NOT REUSE THE OLD BRAKE FLUID. Repeat the process until you have finished all 4 wheels. You will have to pump the sprayer several times to maintain the 5-10 PSI needed to do the job. When finished bleeding, loosen the pump handle to relieve the pressure, remove the stopper/modified master cylinder cap and test the pedal.

 

[stang&2Birds]

The only correct way to bleed brakes is with a pressure bleeder - period!

Here's a page with info with many outdated links:
Mustang FAQ - Brake, ABS, Air Bag, Engine Tech Home Page For information on Bleeding Brakes, see:
Brake Bleeding Information

BTW: Since I bleed my brakes once a year, and I have 3+ cars, I bit the bullet and bought:
Mustang FAQ - Brake, ABS, Air Bag, Engine Tech Home Page

However, a much cheaper option is the motive bleeder:
Motive Products Home

BTW: I do at least 3 brake bleed per year. I've had zero problems bleeding brakes since I started using a pressure bleeder.