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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Brake pedal travel

  • Thread starter Thread starter Skymarshal
  • Start date Start date May 23, 2011

Skymarshal

Member
Nov 5, 2004
572
0
16
Dallas
May 23, 2011
#1
  • May 23, 2011
  • #1
New brake system all around on this car- new master, lines, calipers, and wheel cylinders. The brake pedal now goes nearly to the floor before the brakes engage. I know it's not bottoming out because I can still lock 'em up, and I've bled the system over and over without getting any bubbles. The rear drum cylinders are adjusted properly.

Any ideas for how to get a more normal pedal? I filled the system with DOT 5 fluid which I know will cause a softer pedal, but it shouldn't make it as bad as it is now.
 

tx65coupe

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
1,551
1
37
May 23, 2011
#2
  • May 23, 2011
  • #2
Did you upgrade or change the master cylinder to something other than stock? If so, you may need a longer actuating or push rod.
 

MustangB

New Member
Apr 24, 2011
31
0
0
Central Florida
May 24, 2011
#3
  • May 24, 2011
  • #3
I agree with tx65coupe. Odds are you were mistakenly shipped the wrong length rod.
 

DukeGnarley

Member
Apr 2, 2003
597
2
19
Auburn/Ellensburg, Wa
May 24, 2011
#4
  • May 24, 2011
  • #4
are you using a brake booster?

if so make sure the push rod inside of it is adjusted properly so that it almost makes contact with the MC.
 

Skymarshal

Member
Nov 5, 2004
572
0
16
Dallas
May 24, 2011
#5
  • May 24, 2011
  • #5
It's the correct MC (and it is new), and it has the stock brake booster. I didn't change the pushrod when I changed the MC. Is it adjustable without pulling the MC? Getting that thing mounted past the shock tower was a real bear.
 

DukeGnarley

Member
Apr 2, 2003
597
2
19
Auburn/Ellensburg, Wa
May 25, 2011
#6
  • May 25, 2011
  • #6
you have to remove the MC to get to the push rod. Do you still have the old MC? make sure the hole is the same depth as the old one.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
May 25, 2011
#7
  • May 25, 2011
  • #7
Did you set the headspace? IIRC, it should be 0-0.012.

 
6

68RCodeConv

New Member
Oct 2, 2003
345
0
0
Houston, TX
May 25, 2011
#8
  • May 25, 2011
  • #8
This is a common problem with new rear brakes. If they are not adjusted tight the brake pedal will have a lot of travel. Jack up the rear tire and use a screwdriver to turn the star wheel until you get some drag as you spin the wheel. Press the brake pedal to center the shoes and adjust again. You only want light drag as you spin the tire.
 

65fastbackresto

Active Member
Apr 13, 2007
1,229
7
39
AR
May 25, 2011
#9
  • May 25, 2011
  • #9
Do you have a residual pressure valve?

WILWOOD RESIDUAL PRESSURE VALVES These in-line pressure valves retain a minimum brake line pressure to help eliminate excessive pedal travel in....

Read more at Wilwood Brakes

I have the 10lb one mounted below my mc in route to the rear brakes, it helped my pedal pressure quite a bit.
 
C

chockostang

New Member
Jun 16, 2009
106
0
0
May 26, 2011
#10
  • May 26, 2011
  • #10
Skymarshal said:
New brake system all around on this car- new master, lines, calipers, and wheel cylinders. The brake pedal now goes nearly to the floor before the brakes engage. I know it's not bottoming out because I can still lock 'em up, and I've bled the system over and over without getting any bubbles. The rear drum cylinders are adjusted properly.

Any ideas for how to get a more normal pedal? I filled the system with DOT 5 fluid which I know will cause a softer pedal, but it shouldn't make it as bad as it is now.
Click to expand...

If you used the MC36440 Maverick Duel bowl master, there is no residual built in this. The residual needs to be inline after the master on the rear drum system. Simple easy install. Of course, the Front bowl of the master is the rear circuit.

The Next cause is rear adjustment, I'd venture to say a least half, if not 75% of excessive pedal travel is improper adjustment.

If the rears are assembled correctly (Shoes on correct sides), the adjustment will be to turn the adjuster till you achieve full lock up on both sides. Then adjust back out till the shoes are barely draging on the drums.

Dan @ Chockostang
 
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