Break in tips.

[DW5.0L]

I am going to pick up my engine from the builder soon and drop it in. What are some tips for start up and break in. The engine will have Valvevoline 10W30 in it. I am planning to change that at or before 500 miles.

What RPM range is appropriate for a roller cam engine break in? Should I drive it hard or just keep it under control?

 

[Mike92GT]

Make sure your oiling system is primed before start up. You can do this with a tool that goes into the distributor hole and turns the oil pump shaft. Use a drill to turn it with. That way you will be sure to have oil pressure at start up. Changing the oil at 500 miles is a good idea. I would change it once more after another 1500 miles of driving. When changing oil, I always try to pre-fill the oil filter. This reduces the amount of time your running without oil pressure while the filter is being filled. You can't really fill a 5.0 filter too much or it will spill out when you put it on, but every little bit helps. I took it easy on mine for the first 1500 miles or so. By taking it easy I mean I tried to keep it below 3000 RPM. Everyone has a different opinion on this stuff however

 

[1SLO306]

U will get t different answers from diff people. I would play safe and not get on it at least til 750(halfway, no WOT) and keep a close eye on the gauses for sure!!!

 

[86bluecobra]

yah go easy on the car however i was told when i was breaking in my engine to use a wide range of rpm. not all highway cruising at 1500-2000rpm. If it has a new cam in it i think you are supposed to let the car idle or run at 2000rpm for 20 min don't let engine stop so as to break in the cam.

 

[shttygtstang]

Ive read you dont get proper piston ring sealing enless you give er a good beating right from GO.

 

[Grn92LX]

Read barry r's response. This is how you properly break in a roller engine. http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=12510&highlight=engine+break

I changed my oil/filter 4 times by the time I hit over 500 miles. Be anal and take care of your investment. I switched to synthetic at appx 600miles.

 

[Paul Perreca]

heres a tip, use 5.0 HO HO HO HO HO HO HO FIRING ORDER !!! Not just 5.0 Firing order lol - that should help you! I'm an idiot... anyway - when you get it running, just drive it normal and do your normal oil changes, i started it up and tuned it alittle bit, than i changed my oil before i moved it, than changed it at 500, than changed it at 1000, now i'm at 1400 or so - running like ALI buddy!!

 

[Rick 91GT]

Read barry r's response. This is how you properly break in a roller engine. http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=12510&highlight=engine+break

I changed my oil/filter 4 times by the time I hit over 500 miles. Be anal and take care of your investment. I switched to synthetic at appx 600miles.

After the first heat cycle on the motor, change the oil and filter helps gets rid of the assembly lube used during the build. The top ring should seal as soon as it sees some load and cylinder pressure. Once I get a motor running and check all vitals, looks for leaks extra..I thing do some smooth pulls to seat thre rings, I ually bring it up to 3500rpm or so 3-4 times. By then it is usaully hot and I do the process above. let it cool down and re-torque if needed....

I also prefer to put 500 miles on the motor to ensure everyhting is OK before going balls to the wall, although on my race motors they usually see WOT on the second pass or so...

 

[srothfuss]

Cylinder pressure is generated on Deceleration correct? Or Accel?

The last motor I built was a hydrualic non roller:
1) Prime
2) start and run at 1,500 for 10 minutes
3) Shut off and check for any leaks
4) Change Oil and filter
5) Button up loose items and drive around for 1 hour, changing RPM's every 10 mintues.
6) 2 blasts (up the road to 3/4 throttle and then back down 3/4 throttle)
7) Change the oil and filter
8) Drive normal for the remaining 500 miles

I am curious about the 5w-40 Shell oil that was mentioned at the end of thread. Anyone running this?

 

[bubba-dough]

Grn92LX & Rick 91GT said the same thing that was done to my 347. I was there when it was broke in and thats how he did it. My oil/filter was changed directly after initial break-in and then 3 more times before 500 miles. And as to how long before wot or balls to the wall, that is gonna vary. I kept it under control the first 500 miles.

 

[5spd GT]

After the first heat cycle on the motor, change the oil and filter helps gets rid of the assembly lube used during the build. The top ring should seal as soon as it sees some load and cylinder pressure. Once I get a motor running and check all vitals, looks for leaks extra..I thing do some smooth pulls to seat thre rings, I ually bring it up to 3500rpm or so 3-4 times. By then it is usaully hot and I do the process above. let it cool down and re-torque if needed....

I also prefer to put 500 miles on the motor to ensure everyhting is OK before going balls to the wall, although on my race motors they usually see WOT on the second pass or so...

That sounds good, so just easily pull up to 3,500rpm or so and let it decelerate itself back down and then slowly pull back up to 3,500 rpm again and do that a couple more times back to back

Hopefully I won't let mine idle more than a few minutes by the time I check everything so the rings don't "seat" at idle speed?

 

[Grn92LX]

I also prefer to put 500 miles on the motor to ensure everyhting is OK before going balls to the wall, although on my race motors they usually see WOT on the second pass or so...

I couldn't wait that long Only problem I had with my motor at first was vacuum leaks. I forgot to put one of the plugs on the upper inmtake ports and I had a leak at the lower. I still may have a leak and I think I have to mill the lower intake a little to mate up better. I remember hearing a high pitched squeeling noise on 1 or 2 of the intake bolts when I was torquing it down. It may have been binding due to the lower not being lined up 100%. I am gonna do new head and intake gaskets eventually along with head and intake studs and have the lower milled if needed. I also been thinking of putting the 302 back in and selling it

 

[Rick 91GT]

Huh???

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I am curious about the 5w-40 Shell oil that was mentioned at the end of thread. Anyone running this?

I am, at least the non-synthetic. Shell Rotella is designed for big diesel engines. Many would argue that diesel lube oils(Mobil Delvac, Chevron Delo, Rotella, etc) are made with better base stocks than normal automotive oil(with the oil change intervals those trucks see, they need a good oil). Many 4-stoke bike riders use it because those oils DO have zinc and DO NOT have molybdenum which will glaze the discs of a wet clutch. Typically $7-9/gal.

 

[ramjetlx]

This is what I was told by Coast High Performance when breaking in my stroker. Use 10w-30 oil for the first 500-600 miles, change it, then change it at 1000 miles, change it every 3000 miles, but dont use synthetic oil until after 5000 miles. Anybody agree with this?

 

[Grn92LX]

This is what I was told by Coast High Performance when breaking in my stroker. Use 10w-30 oil for the first 500-600 miles, change it, then change it at 1000 miles, change it every 3000 miles, but dont use synthetic oil until after 5000 miles. Anybody agree with this?

Mark O'neal @ probe/chp is one of the head guys there (might even be an owner?). I asked him when I could switch to synthetic and he told me 500 miles is fine. I waited til about 600 and I did another regular oil/filter change to be anal. If you ever need to ask chp something, go directly to Mark. I just send him a PM on hardcore50 when I have a question for him.

 

[5spd GT]

This is what I was told by Coast High Performance when breaking in my stroker. Use 10w-30 oil for the first 500-600 miles, change it, then change it at 1000 miles, change it every 3000 miles, but dont use synthetic oil until after 5000 miles. Anybody agree with this?

Yeah, Keith Craft does.

I'm inquiring him about rebuild prices now...we are possibly setting something up.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Mark O'Neal is the owner of Probe Industries...nice guy

 

[DMAN302]

Break in is pretty much what ever you decide..me personally I like the idea of easy does it for the first 500. I would be inclined to take Rick91's advice to heart since he does build some potent engines for guys on here...he knows his stuff. I my case I did the first change after first drive, second at 100 and third at 250. Now the changes come every 1000 miles with the very best filter available, and have used and will continue to use 10-30 dino until I've reached 2000miles..again my choice, before the switch to mobil 1. Easy for me means just drive it, I tach it up in second and third maybe once or twice most everytime..so I can't say I baby it every second, but I am pretty easy on her. Must admit I attribute quite a bit of my "easy does it" approach to the fact I'm also working in a new clutch, so if that were not the case then I can say my foot may have been a little heavier more often..just because the result is just oh so much fun.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Break in is pretty much what ever you decide..me personally I like the idea of easy does it for the first 500. I would be inclined to take Rick91's advice to heart since he does build some potent engines for guys on here...he knows his stuff. I my case I did the first change after first drive, second at 100 and third at 250. Now the changes come every 1000 miles with the very best filter available, and have used and will continue to use 10-30 dino until I've reached 2000miles..again my choice, before the switch to mobil 1. Easy for me means just drive it, I tach it up in second and third maybe once or twice most everytime..so I can't say I baby it every second, but I am pretty easy on her. Must admit I attribute quite a bit of my "easy does it" approach to the fact I'm also working in a new clutch, so if that were not the case then I can say my foot may have been a little heavier more often..just because the result is just oh so much fun.

I love it when I am putting a new clutch in along with the new motor, this keeps the foot out of the pedal...most clutch companies ask for 500-600 miles, of varing rpm.