Breakin in procedures for a flat tappet cam...

ExplodingGopher

New Member

Jun 11, 2004

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The mistake on the lake (Ohio)

May 5, 2005

#1

• May 5, 2005

• #1

I've heard so many ways of doing this to make sure the lifters are spinning and getting oil, from leaving the valve covers loose and marking the pushrods with a marker, lifting the valve cover a little and watch the pushrod spin, start it keep at or around 2000 rpms and pray, etc. How do you guys go about doing this?

 

Stang8URMPRT

Active Member

Dec 28, 2003

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Daytona Beach, FL

May 5, 2005

#2

• May 5, 2005

• #2

I never had a problem with my 83 (flat tappet) during cam swaps by following Crane and Comps recommendations. Start the car, let it idle no less then 1500 rpm for atleast 20 minutes. make sure you fill the oil filter with oil, so you get instant pressure, and you'll be good to go.

 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

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Aug 7, 2002

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Arkansas

May 5, 2005

#3

• May 5, 2005

• #3

To help with the oil pressure idea...prime the system (either with coil disconnected and turn the engine over for a few seconds) or right before you reinstall the distributor you can buy a priming tool to spin the oil pump and build pressure without actually turning the engine over (my preferred method)...

Keep the rpms up around 15-2000rpm and change the oil after a heat cycle or two and you should be good to go.

If you a HR cam you wouldn't need to break it in...

 

Stang8URMPRT

Active Member

Dec 28, 2003

1,100

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38

Daytona Beach, FL

May 5, 2005

#4

• May 5, 2005

• #4

5spd GT said:

If you had a HR cam you wouldn't need to break it in...

Click to expand...

Yep, that and you'd love to experiance valve float at lower RPM, and higher ramp rates that reak havok on valve train parts.

 

ExplodingGopher

New Member

Jun 11, 2004

517

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The mistake on the lake (Ohio)

May 5, 2005

#5

• May 5, 2005

• #5

This isn't my 302, this is for the 466 when breakin it in. Just wondering though. Think i will buy a priming tool too.