Bucking ???'s up'd timing to 12 deg and now pinging?

[old_blue]

Been having issues with bucking while cruising. Mostly on freeway in 5th gear. So far I have recently replaced TFI, pcv and O2's and cleaned egr, iac, and wire mess under pcv.

When I first bought it (Sept. 2008) I did the cap and rotor and ford racing wires.

The bucking all started when I was stuck in traffic. The car never overheated (stays at 170*). I put new ground straps on back of engine.

I popped the cap and rotor and found to be a lot of red dust under it. the ends of the terminals were nasty to include the rotor ends. I cleaned all of them off. Wondering if I should just bought new ones but I thought it should last longer than 2 years. Probably put close to 35K miles on it though since I bought it.

Anyways when I did the TFI the timiing was off, Infact under 10* so I thought that was my issue. Today I set it to 12* and when I go WOT in second gear I see a big cloud of dust behind the car and it pings like crazy in the higher RPMs.

Any ideas???? Maybe new cap and rotor are in order??? shouldn't they go longer than 2 yrs 35K???? I don't run it hard but the cap was pretty nasty with gunk. I took a video of what it was doing and will post it when I figure out how to use my phone LOL

Any help appreicated.

Oh I forgot, stock motor with 156K stock t-5 stock rear end. Just has a mac exhaust on it...... thanks.

 

[jrichker]

Three things:
1.) What grade gas are you running? Try running the highest octane pump gas -92-93 octane.
2.) Have you run all the way down to Empty and filled the car up with gas bought from a different location? It is possible you got a bad tank of gas.
3.) Have you dumped the codes?

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[old_blue]

I will pull codes again next weekend. Everything appeared good to go now though.... aside from the bucking.

 

[old_blue]

okay. same codes of 94 and 44. The vacuum lines on the rear of the passenger shock tower were cracked so I capped them off and they are no longer operating the valves on the smog lines. I dont think this is causing the bucking issue though as I had those codes before without the bucking before i put all the smog back on there (smog pump had frozen up so it sat for a little bit).

 

[old_blue]

Okay new update. It seems it get worse with colder weather. Parked outside over night and when I fired it up the idle was bucking up and down. Got it on the road and anytime below 2500 rpms while cruising it was bucking pretty for 10 minutes straight. Got it warmed up and it did it once in a while. I have cleaned everything twice. The pinging is gone and I wonder if that was just a computer adjusting seing how it was at or below 10* for such a long time. Double checked vacuum lines and they are good to go.....

Anyone have any ideas why it bucks more when it is cold??? kinda rules out the TFI I just paid for as those go out when hot..... any help or ideas much appreciated.

 

[old_blue]

ttt

 

[Mustang5L5]

So all you get are 44 and 94? Those codes won't affect how the car runs.

What about koeo and cm codes? You get 11s there?

Did you run the cylinder balance test as well and get a pass?

 

[bdurham]

Mine was surging and bucking in high. I had another IAC and cleaned it and put it on. Mine runs the best it ever has as far as being easy and a pleasure to drive. Give it a try.

 

[old_blue]

I cleaned mine but didnt replace it. My next step is to replace eveything I can. If that doesnt work then I'll take it to a shop. I am leaning toward the distributor being the major issue though. possibly the stator.

 

[old_blue]

Ended up taking it to a shop. Got it back today and turns out I needed a new dizzy. The bracket holding the stator/excitor had broken and it was loose bouncing around causing it to miss/ almost buck me out of the car. runs great now. no more bucking. thanks for all those that gave suggestions.